Is the clutch slipping? Or something else? Troubleshooting help appreciated.

jonny801

New Member
Hi new to the forum. When I release the clutch my rsx will slowly crawl forward. But the rpms will rev higher than usual before the engine fully kicks over. If going 40 and I put the tranny in 6th gear it is much more noticable. The rpms will climb to 4kish before engaging. The clutch still feels solid. Still has the same engagement point. All gears shift smoothly the same as before. If parked and I put it into 3rd gear and release the clutch it kills the engine. My reservoir was a little low just under the min line. But still full of fluid. I just replaced the ball joint and it feels like it was the cv axle that needed replacing. Also there is a small oil leak that pools below where my air intake filter sits. I have a decent understanding of how an engine works but clutch tranny I have no idea. Could it be fuel related? The clutch has never smelled burnt and I know how to drive a clutch. I dont have alot of $ to throw at this right now so any help on how to be sure what the issue is would be appreciated thanks.
 

zack11122

New Member
You hit the gas in gear and it doesn't move till 4k rpm? Definitely the clutcj

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jonny801

New Member
It moves. its just accelerates alot slower than it usually does until 4k like the engine is working but just not fully engaged. It is most noticeable when going 30 or 40 and putting it into 6th gear thats where it doesnt accelerate at all until 4 to 5k rpm. My speed limit to rpms is still about the same if in gear when i drop to a lower gear. The rpms climb faster than the engine does. When I down shift it kicks right into gear and revs down exactly as it should. My clutch went out in my srt 4 and this feels totally different. It still slips into every gear like butter. Is there anyway to specifically test the clutch? I have no check engine light. I drive pretty rough but I dont ride the clutch. I have 190 k miles. The steering feels really loose hence why I thought ball joint. Could it be something with my cv axle being loose? Also I noticed on closer inspection (I have no idea what it is called so bear with me) that the line directly below my cold air intake parallel to the where you can watch gears move that are connected by cotter pins on the right of that deal its the line that is rubber until it comes to a bracket then becomes metal tubing that goes up to the piece that connects to the clutch itself by the reservoir and master cylinder. Well that bracket (whatever it is) broke off and was just hanging there. But I dont see what difference that could make. Fuck I just really dont want this to be the damn clutch I researched the diy and it doesnt look like very much fun. So any other notions or theories would be appreciated. Or just a way to be sure it is the clutch before I take it to a mechanic grab both my ankles and pray for it to end soon. I got a quote for 1100 to replace it. That sounds ridiculous to me. And if I do replace the clutch can I upgrade it? Suggestions on replacements would help too. Thanks again.
 


jonny801

New Member
I will update as soon as I leave the shop. I figured 50 bucks will save me alot assessing the problem. I think it is the damn clutch after driving it this morning. Whats weird is if I slowly accelerate and take it easy it accelerates as it should normally. It is when I give it more than mid throttle that it "slips". I should know in an hour. Thanks for all the help. Now replacement clutch options? Will an upgraded clutch make the car any faster? I dont plan on any crazy engine mods. The engine has 190k so probably just headers and exhaust. With that in mind would it even be worth upgrading the clutch?
 

jonny801

New Member
And clutch is shot fml. Quoted me 1200 to fix.
 


cpeehler7

Banned
I would ask around on a local SCCA facebook who is a good mechanic. A local racer who has a shop that's off the books would be able to do it way cheaper than that. I just had a guy do my whole rear suspension (parts provided) and part of the front suspension for $200. So ask around, sounds like $1200 is far too much money to spend on a clutch replacement.
 

Dc5user

New Member
DIY man it's a pain in the ass but worth your time. Make sure you torque it down to the right specs too
 

jonny801

New Member
I am gonna do it myself. For 600 bucks in labor ill figure it out. I went to o reillys today I can get the master slave for 70 bucks and the pedal for 100. How do I know which is bad? And it seems like there should be more. Maybe like a clutch kit or something. So if anyone knows a good place online to get a kit let me know thanks.
 

jonny801

New Member
Late night thought. Could a badly adjusted clutch mimic a slipping clutch? The engagement point on my clutch is really high. Would it hurt to tighten it and make the engagement point lower? I have heard that the clutch is self adjusting for wear. Is that why the engagement is so high now?
 

jonny801

New Member
96LSteg said:
Dude buy a clutch, drop your trans (I dropped mine with a floor jack and a small 2x4) replace your clutch and drive the hell on...
Click to expand...
I have decided to do it myself for sure. Now that I am looking around for clutches I need advice on what to get. I am a driver I love to drive fast and hard. Right now the only engine mod I have is a dc sports cold air intake. I plan on doing headers exhaust maybe upgrading fuel injectors possibly a vtec controller. Will a different clutch make my car any faster? The stock one seemed fine. Any pointers on clutch brand, style, or sites? Thanks.
 

HRubss

I'm a gearheAd
Aftermarket clutch kits sold by top companies increase power but have at least a 200 mile break in.


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