`*How-To/DIY: Replacing Transmission Input Shaft & Throwout Bearings

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Just wanted to share my experience & seek advice/opinions on my tutorial on replacing a transmission's input shaft and throwout bearings. Let me know if I'm missing any crucial information so I can update it to be a well-polished guide for others.


Warning: Use this guide at your own risk. I am not a professional and am not responsible for injury to you, your vehicle, or anyone/thing else if you choose to follow this guide.



Before we even start, this guide starts right off with the transmission already off the car so keep that in mind. If you want to learn how to remove the transmission off, then you can check out this other guide I have here: http://www.howtodiyintegra.com/how-to-diy-remove-honda-b-series-transmission/



Let's Go! :banana:


Remove is the vehicle speed sensor.

Remove the throwout bearing & shift fork.

Remove back-up light switch with a 19mm wrench.

Remove two 12mm set screws located under the transmission. Use a magnet to catch the steel balls after uninstalling the set screws.

Remove the 14mm reverse idler gear shaft bolt.

Remove the 32mm sealing bolt with a 1/2″ ratchet. I used my Craftsman 1/2″ ratchet and a hammer to loosen the bolt.

Now time to remove the transmission casing. First, here’s the numbered sequence for removing or reinstalling the transmission casing.

Remove all sixteen 14mm bolts and loosen the casing with flat-head tools. You cannot immediately remove the casing yet because the snap ring is clamped onto the counter-shaft. In order to lower the transmission housing, you need to use snap ring pliers to remove it from the groove of the counter-shaft bearing. If done properly, then there will be a “thumb” sound indicating the counter-shaft bearing is loosened from the snap ring.

Now jiggle the transmission casing off. Here you can see the groove where the snap ring clamps onto the counter-shaft’s bearing. There is a visual representation of the inside of the casing where I pointed out the “groove” for the counter-shaft’s “finger” to slide into when it is time for reassembly.

This would be a great opportunity to clean the transmission’s magnet.

Uninstall the reverse change holder held by two 10mm bolts.

Remove the reverse idler gear and reverse idler gear shaft by pulling it straight up.

Remove the shift change holder assembly held by three 10mm bolts.

 

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Now that the shift change holder assembly and reverse change holder are both removed, it is time to remove the main-shaft, counter-shaft, and shift forks. Grab everything as one unit upward and out of the transmission casing. This will take some time but jiggle it around and the main-shaft, counter-shaft, and shift forks will surely come out. Lay the transmission components in a plastic sheet and cover them to avoid dust.

There will be two washers left, a regular washer and a spring washer. Remember that the spring washer is under the regular washer when reassembling the transmission.

Now time to remove the old input shaft bearing out of the clutch housing. I used a 3/8″ extension with a 5/8″ socket and hammered out the old bearing.

Remove the old oil seal with a flat head. Clean surface area for new bearing.

Time to install the new OEM parts.

Thoroughly clean the surface, press the new oil seal in the clutch housing and then press in the new input shaft bearing. I used my shift knob and old input shaft bearing and hammered the new one in, ensuring there was even pressure. You can use whatever you want but just make sure to have even pressure when pressing in the new input shaft bearing.

UPDATE: Drive the new bearing inside with a 28mm pilot & 35mm attachment so as to not cause indentations to the new bearing, using a rubber mallet.

Now that the new input shaft bearing in installed, it is time for reassembly. I did not record this part but explained in steps:
1) Position the spring washer and the washer onto the main-shaft bearing.
2) Install the main-shaft, counter-shaft, and the shift forks. Make sure to align the finger of the interlock with the groove in the shift fork shaft.

Reinstall the shift change holder assembly.

Reinstall reverse change holder & reverse idler.

Now I applied Permatex 81160 Hi-Temp liquid gasket to the surface of the transmission housing which is red in the image below.
*NOTE* Remove dirt and oil from the sealing surface; Seal the entire circumference of the bolt holes to prevent oil leakage; and If 20 minutes have passed after applying liquid gasket, reapply it and assemble the housings, and allow it to cure at least 30 minutes before filling with transmission fluid.

I did not record this part neither because reassembly can essentially be seen during dis-assembly above. But here are the next steps:
1) Install the dowel pins.
2) Install the transmission housing by aligning the groove in the housing with the finger of the main-shaft.
3) Lower the transmission housing with the snap ring pliers and set the snap ring in the groove of the counter shaft bearing.
4) Install the transmission hanger and back-up light switch clamp then tighten the transmission housing attaching bolts in the numbered sequence.
5) Install the 32mm sealing bolt with applied liquid gasket on the threads.
6) Install the reverse idler gear shaft bolt, set screws with steel balls, and back-up light switch.


For the next part, it is recommended by Honda to use only Super High Temp Urea Grease (P/N 08798-9002).

Now that the transmission is assembled back together, it is time for the shift fork and throwout bearing. Apply the Super High Temp Urea Grease to the parts shown in the images.

Finished! Now take a beer break :beer:


I hope you enjoyed this How-To/DIY article & have a great day! If you're interested for moreIntegra How-To/DIY Guides & eBooks, check out my site @ www.howtodiyintegra.com

 

[BigMac88]

Nice write-up! I'm not a huge fan of Permatex, but that's up to personal taste so w/e lol

 

[JustinMcGee1]

This is awesome. Thanks for posting this man.

 

[96LSteg]

sticky

 

[scraping_DB]

Nice write-up! I'm not a huge fan of Permatex, but that's up to personal taste so w/e lol

Thanks! And Permatex was the only liquid gasket maker I had in my tool box. Normally I would use Hondabond to seal any/all my OEM parts but the transmission was already off so Permatex was the next best choice.

As long as there is a steady, even bead of the liquid gasket maker & proper curing time, the seal is no problem. I drove the transmission for about 2 years without any leaks.

This is awesome. Thanks for posting this man.

sticky

Thanks fellas! More tutorials to come. :beer:

UPDATE: A helpful tip from another Integra enthusiast:

Press the bearing in with a Honda Bearing Driver (part #: 07749-0010000) and 52mmx55mm attachment (Part #: 07746-0010400), if you have access to them.

Otherwise, use a socket that measures the same size as the circumference of the bearings outer race, attach that to an extension, place over the bearing and drift into place.

When reinstalling sealer bolts and mating transmission case halves, be sure to use Hondabond if possible. I've heard others use Permatex Grey, Permatex Black, even Toyota Black Gasket maker without problems. But Hondabond is easy to clean up and manufacturer suggested. With all the work done, its worth the 10 dollars out of your pocket.

 

[ixcocoyxi]

I'm so gonna do this with my spare cracked tranny

Sent from my Glade Air Freshener.