Got My First Teg

[heykosal]

When Password says "solid", they are talking about the 1-piece welded design of the strut bar. Other bars are bolted to a plastic or metal plate which then bolts on to the base of the strut. This is a major fault which results into flexing of the bar. This is why 1-piece welded strut bars (Carbing/Password: JDM) are superior than other name brand strut bars.

OHHHHH okay wow I feel like a real dumbass now! LOL thanks for explaining Matt! Yay now I can claim that I have a solid front strut bar, oem gsr baby..

 

[SFLS]

I have decided to go with these parts for now. I will upgrade according to the feedback I get from my car when pushed to the limit. I would like to get the 3pt strut bar from Pjdm but it is sold out. Are ther any modifications I need to make to install this strut bar? (Throtle cable, lift the car, etc)

 

[JDMxDB8]

OHHHHH okay wow I feel like a real dumbass now! LOL thanks for explaining Matt! Yay now I can claim that I have a solid front strut bar, oem gsr baby..

Lol! Well... The materials that each bar was made from are completely different. The OEM one feel like it's made from steel and the Password ones are made from aluminum. The Password strut bars without a doubt, outperm the OEM strut bar.

 

[JDMxDB8]

I have decided to go with these parts for now. I will upgrade according to the feedback I get from my car when pushed to the limit. I would like to get the 3pt strut bar from Pjdm but it is sold out. Are ther any modifications I need to make to install this strut bar? (Throtle cable, lift the car, etc)

There are some wires that need to be relocated (not really). You just need to move them out of the way when you put the bar on.

 

[konerri]

I dont want to lower my car. I am considering an ITR suspension. I was also thinking of getting passwordjdm bars. Does anyone have this setup or close to it?

the passwordjdm bars are a waste of money if you're not willing to put on some stiff suspension. These bars are used to prevents chassis flex which can only come from grip losing extreme cornering actions. If you want your car to handle good, then Type R is where to start. After-market is better, if it is a full coilover system.

You wanted first hand, you got first hand. Stock suspension on my LS was so sloppy that it will literally take some time between turning the steering...body of car moves....then car tilts... then turns......then straighten the steering wheel....untilts...body of car goes back to normal... WTF that was like half a second. Then did this....Suspension upgrades....PIC Performance Select P2(10k front 8k back). Some people say this the best suspension for the money. PIC Performance lower control arms, JDM ITR 23 mm rear sway with Beaks reinforcement kit, Beaks lower tie bar, JDM 25 mm front sway, T1R front camber kit, Skunk2 rear camber kit, ITR front strut bar. Now, if you twitch the steering wheel, the car responds so fast that you can dodge big object 30 feet in front of you going 75 miles done the highway. Car is almost slammed(low as it can go, for daily use) and raised up to where the tire and fender meats for track. AutoX with my setup 2x and i think it works well for street tires. The Type R suspension has like a 1.5 inch drop from a normal teg's height. First thing to do is the lower the car. Good handling and no drop can not be used in the same sentence.

Plus, lowering the car makes it look so much more sportier. Y are you so worried about lowering the car? scratching making your scared?

that's my 2 cents.

 

[redwing24]

when I lowered my civic with coilovers, it was instant. And I don't have any other stuff on my suspension to make it stiffer either.