fuck you DC2!!

Cheesenip

I <3 2.4l's
damn i wish i woulda have seen this thread earlier.

<<---drives an 05 with 31k. ive replaced shit well before the recomended time, bc 1, i had to move it for a modification and since i was there, might as well replace. 2...bc im baller and know how to take care of a car


Anyways, glad to see it was fixed, anything that goes with the electrical system, always check, fuses, grounds, battery voltage and alternator.
 


end005

New Member
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UPDATE: 01/15

I got a new alternator, put it in, tightened everything down, put in my battery agian, and the battery light came on agian. I did the "pull of the negative" alternator test and once I took off the negative, my car died (then my keys got locked in my car cause that's how my alarm is so i'm done for the night)

what is going on??

Help? suggestions?

Another question: the wire connected unto the bold that has the rubber covering, is that a ground or is that the power? Within the last day I've heard it was the ground...while some say its the power. So which is it?
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Yamaha Wr426
 
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tyler

New Member
thats the power because it grounds itself through the mounting bracket
this might seem like a long shot but its what happened to my old tercel. after i went through all the same shit....have you replaced the belt?? worked for me
 

end005

New Member
tyler said:
thats the power because it grounds itself through the mounting bracket
this might seem like a long shot but its what happened to my old tercel. after i went through all the same s***....have you replaced the belt?? worked for me
Click to expand...
hey, thanks for the reply. actually, it was the power wire. my fabrication skills...haha...sucked balls. I had to redo it. Got a new battery too so it worked out for me quite well. New battery, new alternator and the car is perfect at this moment. Took it up a 1st and 2nd gear and heard the blower whine. Haven't heard it in a while...its just nice to be able to drive the car agian.

hopefully someone along the road will be able to use this thread.
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VAPIR NO2 REVIEW
 
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silver_dc435

Chris
end005 said:
***************************************
UPDATE: 01/15

I did the "pull of the negative" alternator test and once I took off the negative, my car died

Another question: the wire connected unto the bold that has the rubber covering, is that a ground or is that the power? Within the last day I've heard it was the ground...while some say its the power. So which is it?
******************************************
Click to expand...
while you did fix your problem, it's good to know a few more things about troubleshooting the charging system. for others that may have a similar problem, too:

first off, you shouldn't really be doing the 'negative wire' test. it worked on older cars without fancy computer electronics. but today's (and yesterday's) cars use the battery as sort of a voltage sink so voltage and even current spikes are absorbed by the battery and thus are not transferd to the electronics. that could easily kill any number of your ECM components. and two, it tells you nothing. the car still dies, but how?

with a voltmeter, you can get a bit more technical. as mentioned, you are looking for 13.5-14.5 volts with ALL the loads on, across the battery. anything less, and you want to see what the voltage is directly at the alternator output terminal (the one with the rubber cap. the alternator grounds through the case, and the rubber cover keeps the output from shorting to ground). if the voltage is like normal, bam! your problem is in the wiring between the battery and the alternator. if the voltage is still low, you need to take the new alternator out and have it bench tested. btw, did the parts store test your old alternator? they should, otherwise they waste your time, and theirs.

other things: make sure your cable clamps are CLEAN at the battery, and TIGHT. make sure your output terminal wire is tight on the stud, and clean. make sure the ground wire is in good condition. normal car batteries can't handle many deep cycles (use until it's completely drained then charged back up). and alternators aren't meant to charge a completely discharged battery, only to keep it topped off. try to charge a completely discharged battery with an alternator can kill it quick.

check your fuses. taking the negative off while the engine is running could have popped one. and check your amp. the power supply inside could be stuck on, creating a drain. check your alarm, it could be draining more than normal also. with the engine off, take the negative cable off and put an ammeter in series between the battery and the cable. if you get more than 1/2 amp or so (some may argue a smaller number, which may be correct) you have a drain and have to hunt it down.

don't be throwing parts at it. try to find the root cause. unplugging all aftermarket do-dads can help narrow down the hunt, too.
 
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end005

New Member
thanks dude. BUT I DIDN"T GET IT FIXED!! here's how it is now.

I replaced my alternator. for these last 3 days, after I drive for 18 minutes my interior lights would get really really bright. For the entire trip, the car would stay like this. Then, after the 8 hours of work, i go back, start the car, the lights are dim agian. drive for another 18 minutes, the lights get super bright agian. this happend for 3 days.

Last night then, the same thing happend, BUT all of a sudden, the super brightness went back to just the "kinda bright, but not dim" mode. I wanted to test something so in 2nd gear, I took it up to about 7k rpms. All a sudden, my battery light turne don. I shifted to 3rd, the light went off. Got up to about 7k rpms agian, battery light came on.

This morning, started the car, everything seemed normal. Got down to about 2 milees away from home, the car started dimming out AGIAN! All a sudden, my deck dies. I turn the car around, head back home cause I knew it was going to die. I make it to a forway, car dies. I try starting it 3x, but nothing happens. Seems also if it was the battery. I waited for 3 minutes, car starts right up.

This is seriously pissing me off.

Help silver???
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Public Tube
 
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Cheesenip

I <3 2.4l's
You might have a faulty "new" alternator, its happened to me with a starter



You might have a wire touching something that's pulling the power from the battery

Another thing, Is the belt tight? My dads truck was doin the same thing, turns out the belt was a little loose and the alternator wasnt charging.
 

end005

New Member
actually, the alternator still is good. the old alternator was bad. failed 5 times.

14.2 with load, 14.6 without a load.
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FISTING MOVIES
 
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silver_dc435

Chris
hmm...i might have had a *similar* (stretching) problem when i did the head gasket on my chrysler 2.5L. i left a ground loose on the back of the head. this ground went to the SBEC (chrysler talk for ECU) and because it was loose the SBEC didn't get the right reference voltage for the alternator. thus, it was putting full voltage to the alternator field and i was pushing 16 or 17 volts out of it. while the lights never did get real bright, i was worried about killing alternator. i worked a switch inline so i could jury-rig turning the alternator off and on.

another problem was that the truck would die sporatically and would restart sometimes. sometimes it would start right up, sometimes if i wiggle wires or pulled off harnesses it would restart.

it wasn't until my wife (after following me home at night) mentioned that she saw sparks falling underneath my truck. YIKES!! so i stared under the truck for a few minutes and found the bolt, started a few thread with the ground lug on it. i tighted the bolt against the head, and all troubles went away. those pesky grounds. you may just lay under the car and see what you can see.
 
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