DIY trunk brace
- Thread starter speedin
- Start date
speedin
The Transporter
i did it and took it to my spot. and the back end doesnt squeal anymore (i am running 100% stock setup besides this). it is noticeable, butt g-meter tells no lies :lol: . i will to a how too soon. and a full parts list. hardest part (for me) was finding the thread and size of the hole i used. but yea it looks oem. and u can barely tell its their (painted mine)DJNAS said:you got to let me know what you did i want to put it in my car too ..
speedin
The Transporter
ok, here it all is.
supplys:
--------1: 3/4 x 3/4, 27 1/2 inch long square tube
--------2: 3/4 x 3/4 square end caps
--------4: zinc washers
--------2: 8mm, 1.25 x 50mm bolts (these are too long, i cut about 1/4 of an inch off the end)
procedure:
1. all u do is cut your sqaure tube to 27 1/2 inchs long.
2. measure distance between the 2 holes (see last pic) this spot is the factory spot for the type-r brace. DONT look at the circled hole! you will be using the one that is sticking out, u can see it supported.
3. drill two holes on your square tube, where the bolts will go (this is why u measured distance between the 2 holes)
3. on your rear cover (whats gong over the area we are working on), you will see 2 spots that cover up are hole. they are easy to remove just take some dikes and cut the 4 spots holding the plastic hole cover.
4. put your back cover on your car again
5. put 1 washer on each of your 2 bolts.
6. insert bolts into your square tube, and put you last washers on the ends of each of the 2 bolts (after inserted into tube)
7. screw the 2 bolts into your frame
8. put the two 3/4 x 3/4 plastic end caps on your square tube
and your done. i painted mine. but u can do what ever u want to your tube. and yes DJNAS "no drilling"
supplys:
--------1: 3/4 x 3/4, 27 1/2 inch long square tube
--------2: 3/4 x 3/4 square end caps
--------4: zinc washers
--------2: 8mm, 1.25 x 50mm bolts (these are too long, i cut about 1/4 of an inch off the end)
procedure:
1. all u do is cut your sqaure tube to 27 1/2 inchs long.
2. measure distance between the 2 holes (see last pic) this spot is the factory spot for the type-r brace. DONT look at the circled hole! you will be using the one that is sticking out, u can see it supported.
3. drill two holes on your square tube, where the bolts will go (this is why u measured distance between the 2 holes)
3. on your rear cover (whats gong over the area we are working on), you will see 2 spots that cover up are hole. they are easy to remove just take some dikes and cut the 4 spots holding the plastic hole cover.
4. put your back cover on your car again
5. put 1 washer on each of your 2 bolts.
6. insert bolts into your square tube, and put you last washers on the ends of each of the 2 bolts (after inserted into tube)
7. screw the 2 bolts into your frame
8. put the two 3/4 x 3/4 plastic end caps on your square tube
and your done. i painted mine. but u can do what ever u want to your tube. and yes DJNAS "no drilling"
Last edited:
p27rpy
New Member
speedin said:ok, here it all is.
supplys:
--------1: 3/4 x 3/4, 27 1/2 inch long square tube
--------2: 3/4 x 3/4 square end caps
--------4: zinc washers
--------2: 8mm, 1.25 x 50mm bolts (these are too long, i cut about 1/4 of an inch off the end)
procedure:
1. all u do is cut your sqaure tube to 27 1/2 inchs long.
2. measure distance between the 2 holes (see last pic) this spot is the factory spot for the type-r brace. DONT look at the circled hole! you will be using the one that is sticking out, u can see it supported.
3. drill two holes on your square tube, where the bolts will go (this is why u measured distance between the 2 holes)
3. on your rear cover (whats gong over the area we are working on), you will see 2 spots that cover up are hole. they are easy to remove just take some dikes and cut the 4 spots holding the plastic hole cover.
4. put your back cover on your car again
5. put 1 washer on each of your 2 bolts.
6. insert bolts into your square tube, and put you last washers on the ends of each of the 2 bolts (after inserted into tube)
7. screw the 2 bolts into your frame
8. put the two 3/4 x 3/4 plastic end caps on your square tube
and your done. i painted mine. but u can do what ever u want to your tube. and yes DJNAS "no drilling"
bad news dude. if you used the holes that are already there, then that bar is not tied into the frame at all. those holes are not for connecting something to the frame. for the ITR trunk brace you HAVE to drill holes if you want it to connect to the frame. right now that bar youve got is just looking good...
speedin
The Transporter
ok, ok. crap :smackself ,should have done more T-I.net research. but i can spin this biach. i am going to do the origonal diy brace. but heres the spin..... what if i welded my bar ( :smackself ) to the diy brace??? it will stiffen up the rear sheet metal, and keep chassis flex??? in theory. trying to help those who already did this mod. oops! but like i said it should stiffen up chassis? also it is HELLA easy to take off. and all u need to do is just screw that blot u used back into the hole to cover up that hole in panel cover. or u can paint sheet metal black their and it wont be noticeable.p27rpy said:
Last edited:
p27rpy
New Member
i suppose you could do that if you wanted, but it seems like a lot of work for just a little bit of difference. Do you have the ITR 22MM rear sway bar? For the bang for buck factor, it doesn't get much better than that in terms of your suspension. I did it and noticed a new, very responsive feeling.speedin said: