can't stop vibrating, help please

moses integra

New Member
it only vibrates at a red light with the a\c but now i got bigger problems! my car didnt start today, not even a crank. it could be the batteries cold canking amps but not sure
 

rvasquez6089

New Member
leftyfork said:
Cleaning your intake is probably the single best task you can perform to guarantee a good smooth running engine. Here's what is happening. When your engine is cold, the fast idle valve is open, allowing for a large volume of air to mix with a richer fuel delivery based on temperature sensor feedback to the ecu, an engine with so much air and fuel will run quite nicely, but obviously your fuel mileage will suffer if it stayed like that. As your engine warms up, both air and fuel are reduced and the ecu begins to control the engine in closed loop full feedback operation. At this time, when the engine is warmed up, air velocity is GREATLY reduced through your intake runners. If there is cake and gum in the runners, your idle will be very poor. There is so much turbulence just before your fuel injector that each delivery of the air fuel mixture is kind of like someone pouring some gas in each cylinder with a spoon.
Set aside an entire weekend, get yourself a round wire brush on flexible steel, 3 cans of carb cleaner, and remove and clean that intake. Take pictures, and post them for all to see how bad it is. Essentially, what you will find is a coating probably as thick as the chocolate on a snickers bar in all four runners, about 6 to 8 inches deep into the runners.
Click to expand...
wow i never knew that ._. So thats why my performance decreases so much after it warms up -.- . can cakey stuff also cause a large reduction in MPG? And by cleaning the intake you mean taking the whole intake manifold off right?
 


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leftyfork

New Member
Yes, the whole intake must be removed and all accessories that are attached to it so you can really dowse it with carberator cleaner.
 

leftyfork

New Member
There are 4 12mm head bolts holding a metal bracket to the engine and the intake. The bracket does not need to be removed, just remove the bolts. The fourth one, top passenger side can actually stay. There is one 10mm bolt holding your IAC valve wire. These bolts are seen and removed from below. You can remove 2 of the intake nuts from below as well (12MM). Up top you have to remove the throttle body, the vacuum lines and the steel pipe assembly (2 10mm bolts) remove the fuel line on the fuel rail, Unplug your injector resistors and the other two connections (driver's side firewall, 3 plugs), then remove the entire fuel rail and injectors with the harness. (difficult). Disconnect the fuel return line. Remove the EGR valve. disconnect the cooling lines beneath the throttle body, that are attached to the intake. Remove the throttle cable and throttle body assembly. Remove the remaining 12mm nuts, there are 10 total, I believe.
Your PCV valve connection will probably get destroyed once you get the intake off. Heat the broken hose on the box at the back of the engine with a torch to get it off, and replace that hose with some 3/8 hose and use an adapter to 1/2 inch hose for your new pvc connection.
Make and take you time, and you will succeed. Using appropriate socket extensions, you can get the nuts off the bottom passenger side
. Tip, when removing and re-installing these hidden intake nuts, put masking tape in your socket to hold the nut while you blindly install the nut. (you will do this with at least the two passenger bottom nuts on the intake)
Take pictures and put nuts and bolts back on where you took things off so you don't mix them up.
When you reattach your cooling hoses, make sure the ends are not punctured. You likely have to pry at the larger one to get it off. You can cut the one larger hose back about 1 inch without having to replace it.
 


SnD3

New Member
I noticed that no one told him to check his injectors for foul firing, or his spark plugs. If either of those foul up you can also get vibrations like that. Usually, it could cause some of the cylinders to fire out of sequence, either too early, or too late. This will throw the balance out of whack. If your injectors are dirty, get a tank of Barryman's injector cleaner (found at Napa auto supply stores), get a good tank of gas, usually the middle grade, or higher, (I prefer Chevron when doing this) then running around 3500RPMs for about a mile. Usually by running the car in 2nd or 3rd gear helps get the RPM a little higher...

If that doesn't work, go a head, and check the spark plugs for discolorations, and residue. If they are black, they are fouled! If they are a brownish color, then you are firing too rich. In this case, sometimes changing the spark plug wires out, also helps. I say start with the Barryman's then go to plugs, then wires, then cap/rotor. Cheapest to most expensive is best! :D Oh, then try the intake. ;)
 
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