Cant figure out whats wrong...

konig16

LS Vtec=:)
So I installed my new alternator and for some odd reason my battery still doesn’t want to stay charged. A first I thought the problem was fixed I turned on the car after charging the battery and my volts read 14 but then I turned on the lights and as I revved the motor the lights got brighter which would be a sign of a bad alternator even though I just replaced it. So I disconnected the negative cable revved a lil and the rpms dropped all the way and the car shut off. Then I decided to turn it on again after charging the battery once again took it for a drive drove just fine till I was coming up on a red light so I put it in neutral and the rpms dropped until the car shut off and when I went to try and start it again the battery was dead so I ended up pushing my car jumping in a dropping the clutch. Even when I was coming to a stop and I put it in neutral and the car didn’t shut of the rpms would drop really low as if it was just about to. This is the same problem I had b4 which is why I changed the altnator thinking that would fix it but I guess I thought wrong.

I have no clue what the problem and I just want to drive my damn car im tired of driving a Camry around even though its still a 5speed v6 lol…

N e one think they know whats wrong with the damn thing?
 

speedin

The Transporter
wait so when driving the car will run? but when the rps get to low itll die? your battery may not be holding a charge. got to a autozone place and they will test it for free. if the batt is good then what about the volt regulator? is that attached to the alt on teggies? if it is then check your install over 1 more time then if all is good go get a refund/replacement
 

konig16

LS Vtec=:)
speedin said:
wait so when driving the car will run? but when the rps get to low itll die? your battery may not be holding a charge. got to a autozone place and they will test it for free. if the batt is good then what about the volt regulator? is that attached to the alt on teggies? if it is then check your install over 1 more time then if all is good go get a refund/replacement
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I got the alt from napa and the install was done right im not sure about the volt regulator never hurd i had one but for all i know i could. I might go test the batt i just dont get how that would be the problme becuse its really only used to start the engine and when i disconnect the negitvie as i sied and rev it a lil the car turns off and at that point it should be able to run without the battary so i really dont think thats the problem i prolly go get it tested n e way though...
 


speedin

The Transporter
konig16 said:
I got the alt from napa and the install was done right im not sure about the volt regulator never hurd i had one but for all i know i could. I might go test the batt i just dont get how that would be the problme becuse its really only used to start the engine and when i disconnect the negitvie as i sied and rev it a lil the car turns off and at that point it should be able to run without the battary so i really dont think thats the problem i prolly go get it tested n e way though...
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it will still draw from the battery. and even more so at low rpms
 

Kuchtaboy

Unregistered User
14 is really high for a battery... Is that when its charging? Sounds like my car did before when my alternator died. Did you remember to hook the alternator back up? I almost forgot to do that when we replaced mine. Felt really dumb... just see if thats the problem.
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
konig16 said:
So I disconnected the negative cable revved a lil and the rpms dropped all the way and the car shut off.
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First off, you should not do this! That is VERY bad for your car and will not tell you if your alternator is bad.

13-14 volts about normal for where it should with the engine on. The voltage regulator is built in to the alternator on the Integra but if it was out you would probably be seeing more like 16-17 volts. I would start with getting your battery tested. You might just need a new battery. Also, when buying remanufactured alternators from places like that, you always run the risk that you will get a bad one. It is very possible. But most places like Autozone and stuff like that sell them with a warranty and will gladly swap them out because this happens often with remanuf. alternators. I don't think thats the problem though. If the alt. was going out you would be running into low voltage. If the voltage reg. went out, you would be running way to high. The high voltage kills the battery very quickly. Alot of people replace the alt. thinking its the prob when its actually the regulator. But they are built into the alt. so it still fixes the problem.
 


konig16

LS Vtec=:)
dc2GS-R said:
First off, you should not do this! That is VERY bad for your car and will not tell you if your alternator is bad.

13-14 volts about normal for where it should with the engine on. The voltage regulator is built in to the alternator on the Integra but if it was out you would probably be seeing more like 16-17 volts. I would start with getting your battery tested. You might just need a new battery. Also, when buying remanufactured alternators from places like that, you always run the risk that you will get a bad one. It is very possible. But most places like Autozone and stuff like that sell them with a warranty and will gladly swap them out because this happens often with remanuf. alternators. I don't think thats the problem though. If the alt. was going out you would be running into low voltage. If the voltage reg. went out, you would be running way to high. The high voltage kills the battery very quickly. Alot of people replace the alt. thinking its the prob when its actually the regulator. But they are built into the alt. so it still fixes the problem.
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yeah my auto service teacher told me i should not have done that to test the alt. today it was my dads wonderful idea... i really dont think the alt is bad though n i sure as hell dont wanna cahnge it out if thats what its guna take i guess i do it though. N i guess the voltage reg thing really cant be the problem then cuz its in the alt as you said . Iono what the hell is wrong with it im about to hand it over to a shop i just dont knwo who i can trust...
 

konig16

LS Vtec=:)
what exactly makes taking off the neg when the car is running bad to do i wanna tell my dad so i can prove him wrong cuz now hes arguing with me about it.... :lol:
 

speedin

The Transporter
konig16 said:
what exactly makes taking off the neg when the car is running bad to do i wanna tell my dad so i can prove him wrong cuz now hes arguing with me about it.... :lol:
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the power coming out of the batt needs a place to return to. that place is the negative. with no negative you have no power. it will not flow though, so ur car gets no power. go ahead and tell ur dad to lick the positive post (nothing happens). now tell him to lick both at the same time (ZAP) current has somewhere to go. a point A and B. the alternator runs to the battery. pos and negative. it will not supply the current to keep the car running alone.
 
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dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
1. It is not a valid test when you weigh benefit to risk.
2. If you are having an alternator/charging system issue, disconnecting the battery removes the only buffer/protection against overvoltage...The battery provides resistance to rapid voltage change/spikes due to it's sheer size/storage capacity.
3. It will most definately spike the system voltage as the load of the battery is removed.
4. A cheapy voltmeter from radio shack will tell the tale much more accurately

Back in the days of vibrating point voltage regulators, this test had some value. But with the voltage regulator built into the alternator and potentially being a problem, the battery is your only buffer against severe voltage spikes which can fry your ECU or any number of other sensitive electronics

EVERY single proffessional tech I know will advise not to do this...ever.
 

speedin

The Transporter
dc2GS-R said:
1. It is not a valid test when you weigh benefit to risk.
2. If you are having an alternator/charging system issue, disconnecting the battery removes the only buffer/protection against overvoltage...The battery provides resistance to rapid voltage change/spikes due to it's sheer size/storage capacity.
3. It will most definately spike the system voltage as the load of the battery is removed.
4. A cheapy voltmeter from radio shack will tell the tale much more accurately

Back in the days of vibrating point voltage regulators, this test had some value. But with the voltage regulator built into the alternator and potentially being a problem, the battery is your only buffer against severe voltage spikes which can fry your ECU or any number of other sensitive electronics

EVERY single proffessional tech I know will advise not to do this...ever.
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not to mention on modern systems its set-up to kill voltage (alt included) if the battery is disconnected. alt isnt designed to supply a car voltage alone
 
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