Cancer Project

Afireinside

New Member
Yeah that looks good! just make sure it doesn't come frome the inside out. I did a ton of work to my 89 and it started eating from the inside out.
Looks good
 

maltedbarley

New Member
Mine is currently super rusty - orange everywhere underneath the spare. I have no idea where water is leaking in from, but the jack and tools are pretty much useless now. WTF!?
Mine was leaking from not only the tail lights but the sunroof drain tubes. For the tubes, take off the side panels and look behind the metal for some rubber tubes. I put some hose clamps on those right away. For the tail lights, I took them off, took off the foam gaskets, and traced them onto some sort of craft foam. Then I sealed them back on with silicone caulk.
My tools were all but a pile of rust in the bag. If anyone is selling an OEM kit PM me please.

I brushed the rust converter on as well as spraying some on, so hopefully that will stop or greatly delay most of the rust.

Thanks guys, it was a lot of work but it was worth it.
 

98IntegraRS

New Member
please teach me, my rust problems are less severe then yours, and i wanna get it done now!!
can you pm me, with like a tutorial, steps, how much it was, information on this, thanks. mines just surface rust, on the front fenders, and rear panels, help would be greatly appreciated!
 

maltedbarley

New Member
I'll post it on here too.
This is going to be short and sweet. If anyone needs anything elaborated, just ask.

First get off all the loose rust with a wire brush. If it's rusted through, try to leave some for the bondo to stick to.

Next, spray or brush on your rust converter or neutralizer. When it dries, wipe it down (I used mineral spirits).

Apply bondo where needed. I had to attempt it multiple times for the quality that i wanted. You may want to do a few coats as well. When that is dry, sand it down with 200 grit sandpaper. Feather the edges and make it nice and smooth. After you're finished with that (it will take a while), use a bondo topcoat to fill in any imperfections or scratches. Wet-sand that down with 400 grit sandpaper. Take most of it off, you should be able to see where it has filled in.

After you have the finish you desire, wipe the area down with a clean wet rag. Then tape the car off well, leaving room for a little overspray (to blend the paintjob). Spray with primer.

When the primer is dry, wet-sand it to a nice smooth surface. Wipe the areas down with surface prep. This is absolutely necessary to remove all wax and gunk that will prevent the paint from adhering.

The paint is next. I used duplicolor 5 oz cans. I needed about 9 total. Spray in thin, even layers. Take your time here, don't get too close or you will get runs and sags. You can always put on more coats, so take your time and keep them THIN.

When the paint is dry, unwrap your car and admire! You're nearly done.

I'm not entirely sure when you can wax your car, so save the compounding and polishing until you can. Generally the waiting period for waxing is a couple months, but this is a lacquer paint so it is most likely different. I'm going to try to do that this weekend, I'll see how the paint holds up.

Have fun. Props to anyone that works in a body shop.

All in all it cost me around $60-$70
 

chronsolo

MAD MAN
man that looks awesome, i've been wanting to do some body work my self, could you list some of the products you used? ie, rust inhibitor, primer, bondo? that would be great, i'm jealous of your work man, i gotta give it a shot.
 

So Breazy

New Member
Ya could you post the names of the products you used like the brand name? Thatd be very helpful. Nice work btw!
 
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