Break In Questions

[AlexD]

x2 ^^

 

[AlphaWolf1993]

Oh wow. I always thought break in was being careful on it so it could gradually wear...but I like beating on it lol. So I can probably run the motor on a stock GSR map w/o boost for the gradual break in. Then when I throw it on the dyno and "beat on it", I'll change the oil and let them play with the maps. Awesome.

 

[hgocasca]

:thumbs up

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

I wouldn't run it on a stock basemap, maybe just to get it started, but I would have a wideband and laptop right there with me and start tuning away as soon as she fires, get the A/F dialed in.

Also break in period on a clutch depends on the manufactuer, my comp clutch had a 300mile break in, yet it only lasted 2k miles...

 

[Samurai_Blue]

This is what i did and i think my rings are seated (no smoke out tail pipe so nothing is burning ie almost done breaking in)
I have 2xx miles on the motor and it seems to be broken in just building compression right now to the rings, which happens over time.

According to the site i read 80% of the break in process happens durring the first 20 miles and the rest can take x amount of time to do, probably around 1500 miles. (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm)

Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

This being said on the first start up i idled it for about 30-50 minutes, i never actually looked at a clock but i was just idling it eating and cleaning up. Then drove it for 20 miles with VTEC not hooked up, i read it changed the pressure of something (besides oil) and wanted a constant pressure throughout the cylinders also i was in fail safe mode. Varied the RPMS with short excelerations at WOT and then let off creating max vacume.

I have done about 250 miles so far and did a compression test which was conclusive my rings are seated just not sealed. further proving the point above.

This is a highly debatable topic, but its one that works and one that i use as well as being recomended to me by RACELINE.

 

[AlphaWolf1993]

I wouldn't run it on a stock basemap, maybe just to get it started, but I would have a wideband and laptop right there with me and start tuning away as soon as she fires, get the A/F dialed in.

Also break in period on a clutch depends on the manufactuer, my comp clutch had a 300mile break in, yet it only lasted 2k miles...

Are there any good sites that explain how tuning works? I can download eCtune, but I wouldn't know what to do, like how to raise the AFR, would that just be adding/subtracting fuel pressure?

 

[Spawne32]

tuning is a complex process that requires alot of research and knowledge to do, if i were you i would just pay to have it towed to have it dynoed tuned at your local shop and do the break in process there on the dyno, plenty of people do that with no issues at all.

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

I agree with Spawne, I wouldn't as much as drive it to the tuner, rent a dolly from U-Haul if you have to. Get it hooked up to the wideband and have a professional tuner start tinkering away with it to get the AF's dialed in. No 2 motors are the same. I have seen stock motors hooked up to a wideband be a little off on the air fuels on a stock ecu

 

[AlphaWolf1993]

tuning is a complex process that requires alot of research and knowledge to do, if i were you i would just pay to have it towed to have it dynoed tuned at your local shop and do the break in process there on the dyno, plenty of people do that with no issues at all.

I was only talking about for the "30-50" minute break in. Our local tuner blows at anything that isn't a V8. I've been looking at Phearable Tuning in Florida, which is quite a drive from SC, so I wasn't planning on driving it to the tuner anyway. I just don't want to have to pay the $550 for a tune just as the break in and have to bring it all the way back to Florida again and pay another $550 for a final tune if I don't have to. I only mentioned a base tune to have it run (w/o boost) so that it could set itself as you had mentioned earlier. I'm just trying to figure out how I'll be going about this later on. Will I be bringing it to the tuner straight after it's built, am I supposed to just let it run first and then bring it to get tuned? It's just a little confusing when some people are saying to throw it on the dyno and rip on it and others are saying to let it just idle for 30+ mins and then drive it, then bring it to a tuner. I just want to do the right thing. I don't want to have to rebuild it right after it's built, and with 500+hp (hoping) I really don't want to make any mistakes with tuning and break in.