AlexD
J13 sooo mad
it was directed at havok, and honestly im too lazy to go through someones thread page by page. doesnt bother me if I dont know either.
b20b turbo
- Thread starter DAIntegraB20B
- Start date
DaddyBuiltRacing
Resident Asshole
302/256 to the wheels on ebay turbo and bone stock B20b (p8r head) with edelbrock intake manifold, 7-8 years ago. 13psi for those that care, daily'd the car for over a year til I traded it off. Motor is running to this day in an Integra (tubo eventually s*** out on it) 
There is a 30 page thread no Honda-Tech about nothing but b20 turbo setups.
Would've kept turning boost up had it not been for the clutch slipping on the dyno, those XTD clutches really do not like boost haha. I built that car to prove the point that I could make over 300hp for under 2k dollars on a stock motor, mission accomplished!
There is a 30 page thread no Honda-Tech about nothing but b20 turbo setups.
Would've kept turning boost up had it not been for the clutch slipping on the dyno, those XTD clutches really do not like boost haha. I built that car to prove the point that I could make over 300hp for under 2k dollars on a stock motor, mission accomplished!
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DaddyBuiltRacing
Resident Asshole
You ever turbo a B series EF? You have to rig shit to fit lol. Hell I had to cut all the webbing out of my hood above the wastegate in order for it to fit.
What happens when people want more power? You build a motor, just like you would with other B series, even then shit breaks haha. The sleeves themselves aren't weaker, the design of the b20 is what worries most when it comes to boosting.
What happens when people want more power? You build a motor, just like you would with other B series, even then shit breaks haha. The sleeves themselves aren't weaker, the design of the b20 is what worries most when it comes to boosting.
DaddyBuiltRacing
Resident Asshole
Define right? I dropped 4k in a bottom end and it broke, Muckman built a badass setup and it broke. There really is no "build it right the first time", thats just a dumb saying that some kid came up with to sound cool in my opinion. If its mechanical, it will eventually break, by "building it right the first time" you are just hoping to prolong the inevitable.
Not everone has the money to build a motor either, it gets real expensive, real quick. Laskey offers a built bottom end like mine for $3450, but that doesn't include things like ARP main studs and is assuming your motor doesn't need any other machining or a crank replaced.
Not everone has the money to build a motor either, it gets real expensive, real quick. Laskey offers a built bottom end like mine for $3450, but that doesn't include things like ARP main studs and is assuming your motor doesn't need any other machining or a crank replaced.
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DaddyBuiltRacing
Resident Asshole
Think about it this way, would you rather replace a 4k dollar engine when it breaks and leaves pretty much nothing salvageable or would you rather put another $400 engine in after the stock one pops?
AlexD
J13 sooo mad
You are basing your question on the assumption that a 4k motor is going to take a shit on you.
If you build it right, have it tuned right, and drive it within its limits there isnt a reason why the motor should break unless something went catastrophically wrong and murphys law happened at the same time.
I would always ALWAYs ALWAYS, take the first choice vs the latter.
I dont want to waste my time putting in shit motors that are going to blow up because they cant handle what I want them to.
4k I can have forged internals and sleeves that are guaranteed to last longer than a stock block at power levels I want.
Why would there be any question as to which motor was done right the first time?
DaddyBuiltRacing
Resident Asshole
I am basing my assumption on real life expierences and having done this s*** for the last 12 years.
You're basing your argument on an assumption that the OP is wanting a 500hp motor....I don't believe a HP goal was ever stated. Secondly, I stand by my statement of no matter "how well you build it the first time" s*** will break, its mechanical, freak s*** happens. I would put money that aside from Muckman I have the most built motor on this site (active members) and thats not being cocky, thats being honest and as I said Muckman and I both had engines that were "built right the first time" s*** out, it happens.
Would I feel comfortable pushing a stock motor past 350whp? Absolutely not, but it has been done and people have done it with great success. Am I a fan of built motors? Absolutely! But I also understand that putting 4k into a block is a risk no matter how well it has been built, tuned, ect...Hell a wiring issue killed my last motor, s*** happens.
As I said, not everyone has 4k laying around to drop into a built motor. We haven't even gotten to having to upgrade other parts to support high hp, before you know it you're up to 20k in a car that is 20 years old.
PS I believe the word s*** is my favorite cuss word lol. Don't take anything I type as me coming at you in an asshole manner, I know its hard to decipher that through letters on a forum, but its not my goal. I am simply stating that boosting stock motors can be done and be reliable and that built motors do break
One more edit because I can, will someone please define what "build it right" is?! That in itself opens a can of worms, you might like Eagle rods, while I think they are junk and prefer something of better quality.
You're basing your argument on an assumption that the OP is wanting a 500hp motor....I don't believe a HP goal was ever stated. Secondly, I stand by my statement of no matter "how well you build it the first time" s*** will break, its mechanical, freak s*** happens. I would put money that aside from Muckman I have the most built motor on this site (active members) and thats not being cocky, thats being honest and as I said Muckman and I both had engines that were "built right the first time" s*** out, it happens.
Would I feel comfortable pushing a stock motor past 350whp? Absolutely not, but it has been done and people have done it with great success. Am I a fan of built motors? Absolutely! But I also understand that putting 4k into a block is a risk no matter how well it has been built, tuned, ect...Hell a wiring issue killed my last motor, s*** happens.
As I said, not everyone has 4k laying around to drop into a built motor. We haven't even gotten to having to upgrade other parts to support high hp, before you know it you're up to 20k in a car that is 20 years old.
PS I believe the word s*** is my favorite cuss word lol. Don't take anything I type as me coming at you in an asshole manner, I know its hard to decipher that through letters on a forum, but its not my goal. I am simply stating that boosting stock motors can be done and be reliable and that built motors do break
One more edit because I can, will someone please define what "build it right" is?! That in itself opens a can of worms, you might like Eagle rods, while I think they are junk and prefer something of better quality.
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AlexD
J13 sooo mad
Im basing my opinion on your last post which as far as I can tell, had nothing to do with the OP's original question to begin with.
My opinion is in building motors in general. It sucks what happened to you and muckman, but thats the cards you were dealt. You still couldnt possibly believe that a rebuilt motor with stronger internals is going to break before a stock one at any level of power unless.. as I said before, something goes catastrophically wrong and murphys law applies itself.
Ive seen 600+whp threads on h-t with completely stock motors as well. Like I ALSO said before, just because it can be done, doesnt mean that it should be done.
Ive also never understood the fact that people want to turbocharge their cars, yet they dont want to pony up the cash to get at least half decent parts. Its always with the ebay this, ebay that. You will almost always end up paying more in the end, and you are right, youll end up having 20k into a 20 year old car, but imo, thats a 20k well spent if it makes you happy.
My opinion is in building motors in general. It sucks what happened to you and muckman, but thats the cards you were dealt. You still couldnt possibly believe that a rebuilt motor with stronger internals is going to break before a stock one at any level of power unless.. as I said before, something goes catastrophically wrong and murphys law applies itself.
Ive seen 600+whp threads on h-t with completely stock motors as well. Like I ALSO said before, just because it can be done, doesnt mean that it should be done.
Ive also never understood the fact that people want to turbocharge their cars, yet they dont want to pony up the cash to get at least half decent parts. Its always with the ebay this, ebay that. You will almost always end up paying more in the end, and you are right, youll end up having 20k into a 20 year old car, but imo, thats a 20k well spent if it makes you happy.
Aussie
Zoom-Zoom
I've turbo'd plenty of stock motors as well, never felt the need to build them stronger for what I wanted to run. They all lasted until I sold them. The only motor I had blow was my old integra ls that was sleeved, eagle rods, etc. Oil pump shit on it under boost at high rpm, cracked two clyinders, pistons smacked valves, damaged the head, everything except for the turbo kit was pretty much done.
My b17 before this last build had two oil squirters break off inside the block and caused a bunch of issues.
Sometimes even when you build a motor you can't help accidents, no matter how right it is.
My b17 before this last build had two oil squirters break off inside the block and caused a bunch of issues.
Sometimes even when you build a motor you can't help accidents, no matter how right it is.
DaddyBuiltRacing
Resident Asshole
Boost doesn't kill motors, detonation does....see my signature
I have a buddy who just dumped 6k into his turbo 6.0 camaro engine, he got 2000 miles at most on it before piston slap destroyed the skirt. Motor was built by a highly reputable engine builder as well. It happens lol
I have a buddy who just dumped 6k into his turbo 6.0 camaro engine, he got 2000 miles at most on it before piston slap destroyed the skirt. Motor was built by a highly reputable engine builder as well. It happens lol
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AlexD
J13 sooo mad
thats murphys law for you.
true that.Boost doesn't kill motors, detonation does....see my signature
Aussie
Zoom-Zoom
Eventually it will, stock parts only hold up to so much pressure, but the same goes everything. I don't agree that just because you build a motor with stronger parts it will last longer.Boost doesn't kill motors, detonation does....see my signature
If you only plan on making say 200hp running a small turbo, on a healthy stock engine will last just as long as running it on a motor with iron sleeves, 4340 rods, aftermarket pistons, etc. Just because those parts are stronger doesn't mean they will increase longevity. They are stronger and will handle more pressure but for the most part they will also wear down a lot faster then the materials that are used for oem components.
Thats like saying my head with titanium retainers, dual valvesprings, and expensive high lift cams will last longer then an oem head. Yea it will last longer if I'm reving both to 9500k, but if I'm only reving to say 8k then no way, I'll be rebuilding mine in about 50k miles where the oem should last to at least 150k.
You should consider what power you want and use the best parts for the job. Still cheap parts are cheap parts and I wouldn't want anything to do with a junk turbo or any other junk part. That's totally different then using an oem setup, that's playing russian roulette with what you have.
That's for sure
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DaddyBuiltRacing
Resident Asshole
This and the point I have been arguing the entire time. Stock, Built, whatever shit breaks eventually.
If the OP has a healthy motor, verified by a compression test, leakdown ect, then go for it. Don't push it to the limits and expect it to last, but 240-250whp on a stock B20 is done all day long and will last if taken care of and not beat on constantly. If 250ish hp gets boring then consider building a motor that will help handle the new power goals, but understand that you will need to upgrade other parts as well such as drivetrain.