B20 swap guru's

[slammedtegc1]

I just swapped my first motor into my teg - the new setup consists of:

B20b engine
S80 transaxle
GS-R crank pulley
GS-R throttle body

The motor starts right up but my wideband is reading very VERY lean. 19:1, 20:1 and up. Too lean to drive. I tried to take it for a spin around my block and after about 2500 3k RPM the engine falls right on it's face with zero power and acceleration backfiring like crazy. I know all my connectors are correct because I labeled them when I was pulling the GS-R. I have a check engine light, so tomorrow I'll be pulling the codes to put me in the right direction. My charcoal canister isn't pugged in because I don't have a dick on my manifold the correct size to plug into, but that shouldn't really make a difference.

However, my question is. The two stud bracket that bolts to the back of the block and holds up the exhaust relieving stress from the manifold studs comes out too far on the B20 bracket and rubs against my intermediate shaft. I tried bolting my GS-R exhaust bracket up - it clears the shaft, but won't bolt up to the B20 downpipe. Should I just bend my B20 bracket a little? or maybe use my GS-R exhaust manifold?

I don't know, like I said, it's my first swap, any input would be cool. Thanks in advance !

P

 

[teggyboi59]

So u put a gsr motor bak on it???

 

[Integraguy04]

what ecu are you using?

 

[slammedtegc1]

I have both a p05 I chipped and my obd2 p72 I'm running to pull codes from. I switched the fuel map on my p05 from my gs-r tune to a stock b20 bin I got off xenocron. The car runs super lean on both ECU's, but it should at least idle alright on either.

I have no o2 sensors, but I disabled them with free crome anyways so I'll always be running in open loop - the ecu predetermined map. Tomorrow I'll be pulling the codes. I understand I'll have several codes I can disregard because it IS a VTEC ecu running a non-VTEC engine, but it should still point me in the right direction.

mechanical timing maybe?

 

[72Spitfire]

Your gonna need a P75 ECU. It will run it, just a little lean. I not sure why your running a vtec ecu on a non vtec engine. I run a B20, using a chipped P75 chipped from madfablabs. www.madfablab.com.
Good luck on your issue.

 

[slammedtegc1]

I'm trying to be as clear as I can when I say I'm running the obd2 p72 ECU solely to pull codes from. It doesn't matter what chipped ECU I have, because it's chipped. I can run any map I want on it.

P

 

[sps21112]

i would check the map sensor and tps they control open loop fueling. I could be wrong but its a start.

 

[slammedtegc1]

right, I know they commonly get mixed up when doing swaps - same with the IAC and IAT connectors but I labeled everything when I pulled the GS-R and I know they are plugged in correctly.

The codes I pulled are:
p1259 - fuel metering
p1337 - ignition system or misfire
and two o2 sensor codes

I chipped my p05 for VTEC to run my GS-R and am still using it for my nonVTEC B20b. I found that the p1259 is a VTEC malfunction DTC. Do you think even though I switched my fuel map over, now the p05 is technically a VTEC ECU and causing the code?

p1337 looks like lost signal from the crankshaft position sensor.

maybe I should start fresh with another virgin ECU and chip that only to tune with, or try another distributor so I can at least drive the car. Now I'm irritated.

 

[Integraguy04]

right, I know they commonly get mixed up when doing swaps - same with the IAC and IAT connectors but I labeled everything when I pulled the GS-R and I know they are plugged in correctly.

The codes I pulled are:
p1259 - fuel metering
p1337 - ignition system or misfire
and two o2 sensor codes

I chipped my p05 for VTEC to run my GS-R and am still using it for my nonVTEC B20b. I found that the p1259 is a VTEC malfunction DTC. Do you think even though I switched my fuel map over, now the p05 is technically a VTEC ECU and causing the code?

p1337 looks like lost signal from the crankshaft position sensor.

maybe I should start fresh with another virgin ECU and chip that only to tune with, or try another distributor so I can at least drive the car. Now I'm irritated.

if you are throwing the o2 codes that could definitely be your problem...

 

[slammedtegc1]

but the problem persists on my chipped p05 with my o2 sensors disabled. and that doesn't explain my ignition system issue and my loss of power over 2500 rpm.

I think my wideband is reading so lean because I'm open downpipe right now and my sensor is right before the flange. The exhaust pulses are probably pulling too much oxygen by the PLX.

is there another section I can post my question in? or another forum I can get some input from? I'm kind of disappointed..

 

[endo617]

try swapping your distributor with someone you know for a test, because if its a misfire must likely that but trouble shoot b4 spending money, the o2 maybe it got bent and of something during the swap, you already tried clearing the codes right?

 

[Integraguy04]

Go ahead and be disappointed...I still don't understand why you have the O2 sensors disabled you only disable them when you are in open loop, and that's only when you are tuning the car...with no O2 sensors the car has nothing to go off of..you need those sensors for your partial throttle which is exactly what you are doing when you drive it around the block..

This is what I would do you can do as you choose...get a stock ecu (no chipping) and put in the O2 sensors, if it's still acting up then pull the codes again, see if any went away, and then go from there.

Ignition could be several things...bad plugs, wires, dizzy, electrical connections etc

I can't fix ur car over the forum, try some stuff and go from there, cars are as always a b**** get used to it

And I wouldn't bad mouth a forum when ppl are trying to help were not miracle workers we just go by what we have encountered..if u want take ur problems somewhere else that's fine by me

 

[slammedtegc1]

I tried clearing the codes and the four I have came right back as soon as I started my car. Swapping the distributor with a known good one to compare is a good idea. I broke a piece off my cap when I was assembling the bolt ons to the motor, but JB welded it back on and thought nothing more of it.

I'm not personally attacking anyone either. I'm writing pretty educated posts in my thread and it seems as though people aren't reading what I'm saying - asking questions I have already covered. Open loop is a vehicles predetermined fuel map when it has first been started. o2 sensors aren't even taken into consideration until closed loop - full operating temperature. They are for use in diagnostics, determining how your engine is running, and to adjust short and long term fuel trim. Purely to monitor emissions. I appreciate what help everyone is giving me, but I understand the smartest folk don't use forums because they don't need to.

I believe the exhaust pulses solve my lean readings coming from my wideband. I'm left with a fuel metering issue and the ignition issue. I want to attack the P1337 first because the problems I'm having feel ignition related; and I'm not sure if the P1259 is a result of using the OBD2 P72 ECU.

I'll keep updating until this is solved.

P

 

[Integraguy04]

I tried clearing the codes and the four I have came right back as soon as I started my car. Swapping the distributor with a known good one to compare is a good idea. I broke a piece off my cap when I was assembling the bolt ons to the motor, but JB welded it back on and thought nothing more of it.

I'm not personally attacking anyone either. I'm writing pretty educated posts in my thread and it seems as though people aren't reading what I'm saying - asking questions I have already covered. Open loop is a vehicles predetermined fuel map when it has first been started. o2 sensors aren't even taken into consideration until closed loop - full operating temperature. They are for use in diagnostics, determining how your engine is running, and to adjust short and long term fuel trim. Purely to monitor emissions. I appreciate what help everyone is giving me, but I understand the smartest folk don't use forums because they don't need to.

I believe the exhaust pulses solve my lean readings coming from my wideband. I'm left with a fuel metering issue and the ignition issue. I want to attack the P1337 first because the problems I'm having feel ignition related; and I'm not sure if the P1259 is a result of using the OBD2 P72 ECU.

I'll keep updating until this is solved.

P

Ok my bad...i just took it as were all stupid lol

Anywase with your problem here is the test procedure for code p1337. I am thinking it is the sensor.

The part # is 37500-P72-A01



PGM-FI System
Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation (CKF) Sensor
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1336: Intermittent interruption in the Crankshaft Speed
Fluctuation (CKF) sensor circuit.
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1337: No signal in the Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation (CKF)
sensor circuit.
Description
The diagnostic system has a pulser rotor on the crankshaft and a pulse pick-up sensor on the engine block. The ECM/PCM
monitors the crankshaft speed fluctuation based on the CKF sensor signal, and judges that an engine misfire occurred if
the fluctuation goes beyond a predetermined limit.
— The MIL has been reported on.
— DTC P1336 and/or P1337 are
stored.
Problem verification:
1. Do the ECM/PCM Reset Procedure.
2. Start the engine.
CKF SENSOR
Is DTC P1336 and/or P1337
indicated?
NO
YES
Check for an open in the CKF sensor:
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect the CKF sensor 2P
connector.
3. Measure the resistance
between the CKF sensor 3P
connector terminals No. 1 and
No. 2.
Intermittent failure, system is OK
at this time. Check for poor connections
or loose wires at C110
(CKF sensor) and the ECM/PCM,
and make sure the CKF sensor
mounting bolt is tight.
CKF SENSOR CoNNECTOR (C110)
Is there 1.6 - 3.2 Replace the CKF sensor.
YES
Check for a short in the CKF sensor:
Check for continuity between
body ground and the CKF sensor
2P connector terminals No. 1 and
No. 2 individually.
Is there continuity? Replace the CKF sensor.
YES
NO
NO
(To page 11-87)
CKF P
(BLU/
RED)
CKF M
(WHT/RED)
Terminal side of male terminals
CKF P
(BLU/RED)
CKF M
(WHT/RED)
(From page 11-86)
Check for an open in the wires
(CKF lines):
1. Reconnect the CKF sensor 3P
connector.
2. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector
C (31P).
3. Measure resistance between
ECM/PCM connector terminals
C22 and C31.
ECM/PCM CoNNECTOR C (31P)
Is there 1.6 - 3.2
YES
Repair open in the wire between
the ECM/PCM (C22, C31) and the
CKF sensor.
Check for a short in the wire
(CKF line):
Check for continuity between
body ground and ECM/PCM connector
terminal C22.
Wire side of female
terminals
Is there continuity?
NO
Repair short in the wire between
the ECM/PCM (C22) and the CKF
sensor.
Substitute a known-good ECM/
PCM, and recheck (see page 11-34
for immobilizer information). If
symptom/indication goes away,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
CKF P
(BLU/RED)
CKF M
(WHT/RED)
CKF P
(BLU/RED)
NO
YES

 

[endo617]

I tried to see if you stated it or not but is your car obd2, and if so did you try to loop the crank sensor witht the distributor, because JDM b20 's dont come with a crank sensor?