B18C1 Turbo help

forgiven

New Member
This post will be long, but should include pertinent information needed to help you help me. I am a noob at this, and am looking for veteran experience. I am building a motor for a '99 GS DC4. I have been saving, but need some help laying out a road map for the build. The motor will be a completely seperate build from the motor that is currently in the car. As far as budget I am in no rush as I want to do this right and am willing to continue saving to do that. I am OK with putting in the money to do that as long as I will see results from that investment. I would appreciate you guys and gals advice and constructive criticisms.

Goals:

First and foremost I want this motor to be streetable, long lasting and reliable as it will be a daily driver. That being said I will probably do more preventative things than neccessary to ensure this motor is not completely pushed to it's limits to reach my goal. I am shooting for around 400hp but would settle for more. The car will rarely see the track. If it does it will be the drag strip (mostly 1/8 mile tracks around here). The car will basically be a street toy, so I want to make good power between 20-90mph. I don't want a motor that doesn't show it's true potential until you are already cruising 60mph on the highway, because this will be useless to me.

Subjective plans/ Ideas:

I am planning to go with a B18C bottom end fully built by Laskey Racing. I chose the B18C after talking with Mike Laskey himself about my goals. He said this would be ideal for a street car because it already has the plumbing for oil squiters, etc. I am also thinking about an 83mm bore, because it will give me room for rebuilds down the road, but still make good power now. I have heard 9:1 compression would be good for my goals, but I honestly don't know. Also you can choose between Manley or Pauter rods on his build. From my research I am leaning towards Pauter.

Advice needed for the entire head. For the head I am stuck between a GSR and B16 head. I believe the B16 head flows better (correct me if I am wrong). I am unaware if this head will bolt directly to the B18C bottom end without creating issues though. Whichever head I choose will be sent to Portflow to be machined. As far as valvetrain I am at a complete loss. I know Portflow deals with Supertech a lot, but have heard this is not recommended for street cars. Again, I am looking for power and longevity. Cams, clueless on what would be ideal.

I am definitely going with one of the Edlebrock IMs, but don't know if the Performer X or Victor X will be more suited for my build. I plan to have it port matched to the specs of the head as well. Now obviously this leads me to finding an appropriate sized throttle body.

Turbo ideas. Well, I know the t3/t4 is popular for street driven cars, but i have also heard a lot about the GT30 and GT35s as well. I am interested to hear what turbo you all feel will suit my needs best and why.

Any more questions to help narrow down things, just ask.

RECAP:

reliable
longevity
streetable
around 400hp
majority of power seen between 20-90mph
not tracked, street toy.
 
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AlexD

J13 sooo mad
Stock GSR bottom end
Forged pistons
Forged rods
OEM/ACL bearings
Balanced Crank
ARP headstuds
10:1 Compression

Ram horn or mini ram turbo manifold
T3 57 trim or similar. Sc34, S256/S258 Gt3076, gt3071, Pte 5557/5857
Pump gas or E85
Minimum of 1000cc injectors for E85, or 750cc injectors for pump gas
Walbro 255lph pump, deatschwerks 300lph, full blown motorsports 340lph, aeromotive 340lph, walbro 400lph fuel pump
stock fpr
stock fuel rail
NO BLOCK GUARD
Conservative tune
Crome ems, neptune ems, or hondata if you have the money
ITR cams if you have extra money, stock head will do just fine, you can kick the boost up a little bit to compensate.

No need for sleeves unless you have the extra money to kick around.

This is a very rough idea of a setup you can do that will make 400whp
There you go.
 


AlexD

J13 sooo mad
Block guards generally cause heating issues because it can restrict coolant flow. That and if they are not installed correctly they tend to mess up the block.
 

95TurboGSR

New Member
My GSR is built like this current power is 348WHP with a slightly bigger turbo you can meet your goals and daily it for 200k miles or more

Eagle Rods
JE Pistons
ARP Studs (Head to Crank)
All new bearings
Sleeves
Stock Bore


T3/T4 60mm (Turbonetics evo wastegate, greddy bov, spearco intercooler, )
Skun2 Pro Intake Manifold
Moroso Oil pan
93 Pump Gas
880cc RC injectors
Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump
AEM FPR
AEM Fuel Rail
Exedy Stage2 Clutch
Fidanza flywheel

Conservative tune
Hondata s300 4bar map

And much, much more stuff
Look at my profile pic, it was before I added the fuel rail
 
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jbrown97ls

Active Member
Not trying to thread jack, but would any of you recommend a lower comp Piston like an 8.9 or just stay with the 10:1? Im in the process of getting parts for a similar build and Im on the fence. I will drive it N/A for a few months while saving up for the turbo parts
 

AlexD

J13 sooo mad
Not trying to thread jack, but would any of you recommend a lower comp Piston like an 8.9 or just stay with the 10:1? Im in the process of getting parts for a similar build and Im on the fence. I will drive it N/A for a few months while saving up for the turbo parts
stay 10:1
 

forgiven

New Member
I appreciate the advice guys. I am definitely avoiding block guards as I hear they can warp the cylinders. I still have plenty of research to do, but am trying to get more information from those who have dealt with similiar builds. Interested to hear more..
 
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