b18b1 rebuild vs b20

98IntegraRS

New Member
I have a 98 rs with a b18b1 obviously :p

My car has 46,XXX original miles
motor and chassis

I did an oil change about 1600 miles ago and check my oil yesterday and it's about 3/4 between the holes on the dipstick..so my engine is burning oil

Should i rebuild my b18b1? (leaning towards)
A rebuild kit like this one is 350$
http://cgi.ebay.ca/96-01-1-8-L-Acura-Integra-B18B1-16V-Engine-Rebuild-Kit_W0QQitemZ220449946524QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3353d73b9c

Then since I don't know how to do it, I'll probably have to pay someone else to do it..

OR

Would you say LET'S B20 SWAP
more hp, more torque, and the engine doesn't cost much more then a rebuild..

Is a b20 a direct swap?
or does it require different mounts/linkage?
My ls tranny is mint, 0 grinds, shifts like butter is it usable with a b20? I'm pretty sure it is

http://cgi.ebay.ca/JDM-HONDA-B20B-ENGINE-ONLY-WITHOUT-TRANSMISSION-96_W0QQitemZ300436097076QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45f3630834

opinions?!

(Also i heard it could just be my piston rings, or my valves/seals) true??
 

David.95LS

Delwarian
i just swapped a jdm b20b in my 95, and i love it, the only thing you use from the b20 is pretty much the block and the head, you would have to use your intake manifold and throttle body, fuel rail and injectors, accessory brackets, your ps pump, alternator, ac compressor if your keeping ac, and your dizzy, and also you have to use your driver side top mount, im not sure about the wiring on yours because its OBD2, mine was all plug and play (OBD1), and lastly im not sure how your pvc system is on yours (obd2 b18), but what im guessing is the crank case breather that needed vacuum was moved to the top of the head, like the b20.

your trans will bolt right up too, but i would suggest getting a new clutch while its apart, and maybe upgrading to a stage 2 or something a little bit upgraded. and also i would suggest getting poly torque mount inserts.

all i have is an I/H/E and its alot more fun to drive, the second gear pull is nice too for merging into traffic.
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
A. A rebuilt engine will be brand new, with zero miles.
B. A rebuilt engine will cost you more than $350 if you want to do it right. There is machine work involved that (for me) cost in excess of $800.
C. A used engine comes with an unknown amount of miles (sure it could say guaranteed not to have more than 40k, but do you really know this?)
D. A used engine could come with the exact same problem as your car already has, or it could be fine. Its your gamble.
 


mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Edit: See that you would be paying some one else to do it.

If youre burning oil, its either your valve seals, or piston rings. Valve seals will run you $50 from the dealer, and you could probably do most of the work yourself, without pulling the motor. You would need to get a valve spring compressor to take the springs out though, but it would probably cost a couple hundred if thats it.

If its more than the valve seals, your talking a bout pulling the block, and to do it right you then need to replace the headgasket, head bolts, crank/rod bearings, piston rings, have the block honed, head resurfaced, and block decked.

Timing belt, tensioner, waterpump, oil pump (or atleast replace the rotors and spring inside).

It could be 2-3000 if you have some one else, and use mostly OEM parts.
 
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98IntegraRS

New Member
yeah, i was told it's either the piston rings or valve seals.. and they said if it's the piston rings, blue smoke will come from the exhaust which it does not, which leads me to believe it's just the valve seals, which your saying is an easy fix?
 


mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Easier than replacing the piston rings, and everything else along with it.

It requires a bit more too it than just popping some seals off, and putting new ones on. Search around for it and see what it entails, a shop would probably charge $500 because of the labor (which pretty much includes the entire disassembly of the cylinder head)
 

Dumpie1

Lower is better
Too be honest you really dont need a rebuild with only 46k original miles, even if you are burning the slightest amount of oil every thousand miles or so. I burn up a quart of oil every week and thats bad.

If you still think you need a rebuild, then go for it but I suggest upgrading some internal parts while your at it. :D
 
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