b16a or b18c?

cabezzzdb8

BBS wanted
Ominous G2 said:
CTR
B16B
1595cc
10.8:1 CR
185hp @ 8200 rpm
118 lb/ft @ 7500 rpm
$4000

ITR
B18C
1797cc
11.0:1CR
197hp @ 8000 rpm
134 lb/ft @ 7500 rpm
$4600-$5200
Save some $$ get an ITR head and GSR bottom, CTR WAY overpriced, 118lb/ft blah, id get a JDM GSR before I get a B16B any day
 

trentoncc24

New Member
Well what should I expect to have to do to my car for it to be ready and reliable enough for a turbo?
 


g2teg

save a whore..buy a porno
Sirfallsalot243 said:
I know guys with a B16 in their integra. Theyre as slow as LS's. An LS with a B16 tranny would SMOKE a B16 swapped teg. Keep the B18C. Do one of two things:

Sell your tranny, and buy an ITR tranny for as low as $900 (thats the lowest ive seen on HT)
Buy an ITR LSD, rebuild your tranny, and throw in the LSD.

Youll kick yourself if you put in a B16.
i have a b16a1 and my stock ls tranny and that bitch pulls......and its in a 90 ls
 

B18TEG

BLACK DA
g2teg said:
i would say replace the tranny no need to swap out the b18c
yea and if your going to go turbo save the $$ and start piecing it together or building the block to withstand the extra spark, sleeves, low compression pistons, etc . ..
 


trentoncc24

New Member
What would the advantage of low compression pistons be? I know that it helps protect the gasket from blowing or block breaking or whatever, but it doesn't seem like it would make any difference because the turbo would add the psi you lost from the low compression pistons and then the compression would be high again. Why not use high compression pistons and just lower the psi of the turbo? I know there has to be a reason for this, which is why I'm asking you guys. I'm trying to learn about all this stuff, its becoming a new hobby to me
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
its all about the pressure ratio in the combustion chamber. lowering the compression will create less pressure but then you add more boost. the boost is cooled by an intercooler which allows you to achieve the same pressure ratio's at a much cooler temperature. cooler air is more dense and contains more oxygen. by lowering the compression, you can get more power for the same strain on your engine. plus you would have stronger parts and more detonation resistance so it completely opens the opportunity for power and reliability even further
 

trentoncc24

New Member
Ok that makes perfect sense. I've always wondered about that. From what I read, it is almost necessary to sleeve your cylenders and add low compression pistons and rods to be able to maintain a reliable turbo setup. I plan on that being one of the very last things I do to my engine before I install a turbo, that way my engine will be freshly rebuild and ready to go, but in the mean time what are other smaller upgrades I should do to my engine to gain power and reliability with a turbo setup? Theres pretty much a limitless amount of things I could do, but I don't know what I should start with.
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
for upgrades that will pay off in the long run.......get a 3inch exhaust all the way back and upgrade your ignition system. get one heat range colder spark plugs but don't put those in till you're boosting. most Honda's have a die cast aluminum blocks with an open water jacket design. sleeving the block with some sort of bracing or block guard is a great idea.
 

trentoncc24

New Member
I've heard block guards weren't any good, but I don't know to much about em. The ignition idea sounds like a good idea. Does igntion have to do with the rev limiter and all that, or is that in the ECU. I know the igition controls the spark and all that, but I dunno what controls the Rev limter. I've also been thinking about cams and valve springs, and maybe valves if recommended. Another idea was maybe when I get the engine sleeved to get it bored out some too. I heard you could bore a b18c out to 2 liters and still be safe, however I wouldn't want to push it that far, somewhere around 1.9 liters would be fine with me. I want something much faster than normal (at least mid 13's in the quater), but also reliable enough to not have to worry about driving it to work every day and being late because something breaks.
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
block guards work great if installed right. the are supposed to be put in the block with the pistons out of it. same with the sleeves though. its because the cylinders should be honed and checked with a micrometer for out-of-roundness. if you put one in without taking the pistons out then you can't bore or hone it at all. so if it is out of round then it will stay that way. ignition upgrades will always be a good investment on forced inducted honda's and acura, and it won't hurt before you're boosted. i wouldnt worry too much about displacement. boring it too much will weaken the cylinder walls and i would like to have the extra strength under pressure. anyway, i'm curious to what your plans are on the turbo setup? 13's aren't too difficult as long as you are willing to buy good tires! just curious to the details of your plans. do you have a turbo picked out or boost pressure in mind, a horspower goal or just 13's?
 
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trentoncc24

New Member
Well I want to be able to run a reliable amount of psi while i'm daily driving, and I'd like to be able to turn up the psi while at the track. I've read that you can do this if you buy the right computer thing, to change the air fuel ratio itself, kinda like radio station presets on a cd player I guess? I don't really have a HP goal in mind, however I doubt I'd want any less than 240. I'm hopin to be able to do enough research and learn enough to get this setup right, where its reliable. I don't mind spending the extra money to get it right. I want it right the first time. I expect to have little problems along the way, like maybe a bent valve or blown head gasket and stuff like that, however I do NOT want a rod going through my engine casing. My car had a rod through the engine casing when I bought it, which is why I had to replace the engine. Guy said the AEM intake sucked up water in a puddle.
 
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