You dont need to swap harnesses.
heres a great writeup.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1255332
Auto to Manual Swap (This should be a sticky)
I just did an auto to manual swap over the weekend. I did all my research on this forum. Not all
of the threads were complete, so I decided to make a complete one.
I already had turbo in my car, but it sucked because it was an auto. This was worth it.
I have a 97 Integra LS.
Parts list
1. Manual Tranny with the fork and pilot bearing and flywheel cover. (I gotta LS for my turbo setup)
2. Clutch with pressure plate (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $409)
3. Flywheel (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $187)
4. All flywheel and pressure plate bolts (automatic ones are different)
5. Manual Starter with the 2 bolts (one long and one short)
6. Front tranny mount
7. Manual Rear support bracket (the one in the back that connects the tranny and the block)
8. Manual Front Tranny mount (it's the arm with 3 holes in it, the automatic is different)
9. Upper Tranny Conversion mount (I got mine from Hasport for $175, its a must, unless you want to modify
a stock manual mount. The automatic mount will not fit.)
10. clutch pedal (brake and gas are optional, I just cut my brake smaller and got
covers for the pedals. looks alright.
11. clutch master with clutch reseviour
12. slave cylinder
13. hard clutch lines going from clutch master to slave cylinder
14. soft clutch line between the hard clutch lines and slave cylinder
15. shift linkages with the pin and clamp for the shifter and
the 2 washers and bolt that support the stablizer
16. shifter
17. shift knob (skunk2)
18. manual shift console with shift boot
19. Everyone says that you need manaul axels and intermediate shaft, but
I was able to get away with using my automatic ones. But if you're not sure
get the manual ones. I wasn't sure either, but I had a set when I bought the tranny.
20. Optional Manual ECU. I bought one, but didn't use it becuase the wiring harness is different
for automatics. My automatic one works just fine.
21. All the nuts and bolts to bolt in the new parts. Look on
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ to see what you need.
You're probably going to need all the tranny bolts, the three bolts for the front tranny mount,
the starter bolts, the shift linkage bolts, flywheel, and pressure plate bolts, also optional is
the silver arm that connects the tranny and block from the bottom. the automatic one is different.
22. Crucial tools: Something to cut metal,breaker bar, drill,and torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate (19 lbs)
I was able to do the swap with a 137 piece crafsman tool set. You'll also need some sheet metal.
Getting Started
1. I spent over a year collecting the parts, its up to you on how long you want to search. I searched ebay and junk yards.
Make sure you get the right parts, people on ebay sell automatic parts listed as manual parts.
Make sure you know your stuff.
2. I took whole motor out (highly recommended) because it's easier that way and I need to change the timing belt.
You also need to take out the automatic shifter console. Make sure it's in Park.
3. Once you get the motor out, take off the automatic tranny and all the torque converter.
4. Put the flywheel with bearing, clutch, and pressure plate on. Make sure you torque it right with a torque wrench.
5. Make sure your tranny has the right pilot bearing. I got one from Clutch Master that came with my
clutch. It did not work. It was too thick. I had to take my tranny out again to replace it when
I was done. What a pain in the A$$.
6. Bolt on the tranny. If you want, you can test the tranny if it works. Put it into first gear
with the shift linkage, put an axel in one side and turn it to see if the cluch is gripping.
You'll know it's gripping if the other side where the axel goes in is also turning.
This is what I should have done before I put the motor back in.
7. The automatic tranny had an extra throttle cable and clips. The manual one only needs the
speed sensor and the the reverse lights
8. Just put the motor back in and all your axels and stuff and Add your fluids.
9. Where the automatic shifter is, there's a cover welded onto the bottom to protect the cable.
That needs to be cut out. I cut mine out from inside the car. If you don't cut it out, the
shift linkage will not fit. Just cover it up with sheet metal later with silicone to seal it.
10. You'll also need to drill the 2 holes to bolt up the shiftl linkage stablizer bar. They're
already marked for you. It's the 2 outline of holes that aren't drilled yet.
11. Put the clutch lines in with teflon tape. They don't need to be bolted on. I just left mine hanging.
Then you need to put in the clutch pedal and bleed the clutch.
12. When the shifter and clutch is in, the you'll want to do the wiring. I found this picture on the internet.
It really helped alot, but the directions where kinda of confusing so I cleaned it up a little.
On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly,
and leave about 5 inches of wire. Looking at the plug, the positions are
(left to right) (top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and (bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.
Starter and Key removal: Connect wires 10,11,12 together (2 thick black wires and grenn/white)
Cruise Control: Connect wires 7 and 13 together (small pink and small black)
Reverse lights: connect wires 4,5 to your reverse light clip on the tranny (yellow and green/black)
13. When thats done, cover up your hole, put your new shift console and shift knob on
and you're ready to roll.
14. I had no major problems except for the pilot bearing that clutch master gave me. I had
to take the tranny out again and put the stock one back in. My axels were pretty rusted
in. I must have spent at least 4 hours just taking them out.
15. I spent around $1000 doing the swap. I got the tranny for $300 off the street. It came
with the starter, shift linkages, mounts, bolts, flywheel cover, the silver arm that connects
the tranny and the block from underneath, axels and intermedite shaft. I gotta great deal.
16. I spent around 24 hours doing my project. I would have been shorter, but I spent 7 hours
taking the tranny back out an putting it back on to replace the pilot bearing.
17. It was a pretty good project and easy to do. I would definitely do it again. If you've invested
a lot already on your automatic car and don't want to buy a new one, this swap is worth it.
Most of my money went to the Clutchmaster Clutch and flywheel. Everything else was pretty cheap.
