91 DA wiring foglights

omgherb

93 Rs Looking ITs best
Mister_Perkins said:
but i want the ability to just press the button in and have the foglights turn on without turning the lights on at all. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
as soon as i find out how to do it ill let you know i have to do some diggin cause i was trying to do that at first but i was some what in a rush so i just ran it to a switch but i believe if you find a source with power by ignition in on position just tap in2 that wire and find out what is the main power wire to that switch but be careful i ran my power wire from the radio so when i turn my car off the lights go out also but i realize that the watt with my headlight on w/ the fog switch is not the same as if it was just ran from any source of power cause when i have my foglight on and i turn my headlights on and then press the foglight button you can see that my foglight gets alil brighter
 

DarkDB1

New Member
Why didnt you just swap the wires behind the switches on the dash?... Takes 5 minutes...



Mine is all the way in back... Did all 3 DA's.

(OLD PICTURE)
 

Mister_Perkins

Oil Field Worker
DarkDB1 said:
Why didnt you just swap the wires behind the switches on the dash?... Takes 5 minutes...



Mine is all the way in back... Did all 3 DA's.

(OLD PICTURE)
Click to expand...
Nice DA's .. the reason i wanted to run it to there is because it is easily removable, cleaner, and works just the same. Right now i have it connected up exactly like the picture below, except i didnt electrical tape the hell out of my plug. With my DA, I am taking my time to do everything, and doing it so that everything is clean. Even if you cant see it with the naked eye, I want it to be clean and easily changable back to stock. With the wiring for the foglight, what I did was cut the Red/Yellow striped wire, added one of those male / female connectors to it , bought some 16 gauge wiring (25ft) stripped the end, slid some shrink tape over the wire, put the female connector on there, ran the wiring through the dashboard using zip ties to keep it close to the harness. When i got to where the main fuse panel plugs are, I added my 10A fuse block with those cylinder shaped connectors, and added another male / female plug to the end of the 10A fuse block and then plugged it into the fuse panel shown below (mine looks cleaner though). I Seriously think that this makes a whole lot more sense then running it to the defrost, because if you think about it.. Your running that much more juice through your wiring. Thats why on the fuse panel there is those extra pins that are open.. So that you can run your extra stuff to it and not overload your wiring. I'm sure that running it to the defroster might work all fine and dandy, but I think that it just makes a lot more sense to run it to the fuse panel. Like i stated.. Its much more safe, and super easy to convert back to stock. Thats what I'm looking for, I want to easily be able to convert whatever I do on my car back to stock. So if I eventually get tired of something that I wired, I wont have to be like "Shoot... Why didnt I wire that easier", because it will already be done like that...

Below is the proper spot to wire it if you are planning on doing what I did. There is a couple more options though. Fuse 13 inside of your fuse panel (turn the knob and pull open) is an empty fuse. Its directly connected to your alternator and your battery. You can buy a fuse expander and wire it there.. but just make sure that you put a fuse block there, so you dont burn up your harness if it shorts out for whatever reason (shouldnt short out btw). I know that Autozone has Fuse expanders which were like 2-3 $$ .. Pretty much how it works is its in the shape of a fuse, except it has a wire out the side of it and a spot to put an actual fuse on the top. just pull the fuse out (if there is one), connect your wiring to it, and plug it into your fuse panel. Pretty straight forward. I'm not sure on the actual name, but I know for sure I saw it at autozone..

 
Last edited:

tisguy

New Member
it makes sense you want a cleaner look, and are wiring everything to the fuse... but your concept of electricity is a bit off. it's not going to be supplying "more power" through the wire. the fog wire is crossed over to another independent 12v source. it's just like wiring something in parallel. same voltages across. And I'm pretty sure honda didnt make free fuses to wire things into it in the first place =P, probably for something stock that wasnt put into that da9.
 


Kuchtaboy

Unregistered User
guys... its powering a relay, you could run it with 2 volts if you wanted. You're not going to hurt anything, your way of doing it with adding all of that stuff is just a "I'm better than the rest of you" way to do it while managing to spend more money on it. You can return this way back to stock of you want, but I don't see a need to. I'm sure the next person to buy it would love day time running lights on their car. lol

its already fused. You don't need to do it again.
 

Mister_Perkins

Oil Field Worker
tisguy said:
it makes sense you want a cleaner look, and are wiring everything to the fuse... but your concept of electricity is a bit off. it's not going to be supplying "more power" through the wire. the fog wire is crossed over to another independent 12v source. it's just like wiring something in parallel. same voltages across. And I'm pretty sure honda didnt make free fuses to wire things into it in the first place =P, probably for something stock that wasnt put into that da9.
Click to expand...
Umm .. i dont think what you just said is wiring in parallel. I know what a parallel circuit is, and wiring it across to an opposite power source isnt a parallel circuit. I agree that your crossing over to another independent 12v source, but you are going to be using more power from the defrost wire. If you think about it, you pulling power from your defrost at all times your foglights are on. The wiring can only handle so much power through it. But what happens if there is a power spike? You would be using almost double what the harness wire was rated for. But like I said, its up to the person to decide what they want to do, and both methods work. I like the clean look and ability to take off the foglights whenever I want and put it back to stock without having to cut wires / tape wires, but someone might like the easier way of doing it.

Again, im not saying to not wire it to your defroster, im just saying that I wanted a cleaner look.
 

tisguy

New Member
well I live in san francisco, so windows fogging is normal, and I've been running the wire to the defrost for awhile now. The dash fuse would have blown if the lights and defrost were demanding too much current. but it doesnt matter, haha in the end the same outcome is achievd, fogs on without headlights
 


Mister_Perkins

Oil Field Worker
tisguy said:
well I live in san francisco, so windows fogging is normal, and I've been running the wire to the defrost for awhile now. The dash fuse would have blown if the lights and defrost were demanding too much current. but it doesnt matter, haha in the end the same outcome is achievd, fogs on without headlights
Click to expand...
exactly mang... like I said, its the same outcome. what i did just took a bit longer. :)
 

Kuchtaboy

Unregistered User
you wont get a power spike unless you do something wrong with the wiring else where and ground it out. again, its a fog light switch relay power wire. its not going to spike
 

Mister_Perkins

Oil Field Worker
Kuchtaboy said:
you wont get a power spike unless you do something wrong with the wiring else where and ground it out. again, its a fog light switch relay power wire. its not going to spike
Click to expand...
Anything is possible :)
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
the pic i posted before did have the wrong pin circled, i'm sorry. i did a little hardwiring project earlier this week (hardwired my radar detector to my fuse box, so i could tuck and hide the wire) anyway, i noticed that the wire i ran from my foglight switch is actually connected to THIS pin:

*Circled in RED*

the pin circled here:

*Circled in Black* was used for an old project of mine. i wired a set of aftermarket foglights to this pin so that they would turn on when i turned on my parking lights. the pin circled in this pic is known as the "parking light free pin" power is supplied when the light switch is turned on (so if your parking lights are on, power is being supplied to whatever is connected to this pin)

sorry for the mis-information. the first pic i posted, where the pin is circled in red, is where my foglights are wired right now. the aftermarket foglights i mentioned were some aftermarket, bumper mounted lights. as pictured:

this was their light output:




i took them off when i installed my jdm 1pcs though. i still have the lights, and if anyone wants them, send me a PM, i'll sell them for $35 shipped.

/thread jacking and lame sales pitch.
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
and in response to the comment of "honda didn't make those free pins for stuff like this"
i dont have any documentation on it, but just about all automotive fuseboxes have free pins for just these purposes. instead of wiring aftermarket cd players (or any other automotive electronic device for that matter) into wires that already existed (and can risk frying the wiring harness) or into one of the regular fuse pins. i've seen people pull out a fuse, wrap the exposed part of the wire around the fuse, and plug the fuse back in. that is the absolute laziest thing i've ever seen. they are called "free pins" for a reason lol. sorry if that reply sounded rude, my daughter has kept me up ALL night and so far ALL day and i'm a little edgy lol.
 

integ21

New Member
Lazy way has worked fine for me, its been 6 years since I've done it like that and no electrical load problems here.

What ever floats you boat I guess.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top