01 GSR Issues..

iinversion

New Member
Ran into some issues today.. Started up the car as usual, was fine. Started driving down the street and it was running really rough and ended up dying. Started it back up, sounded like it was misfiring and the tach was going wild between 2k-5k rpms. It'll stay idling like that without dying but when I try to move the car it just wants to give up and die.

Checked the CEL's

I'm getting

Code 4 - Crank Angle Sensor
Code 7 - Throttle Angle
Code 8 - TDC Position
Code 9 - No 1 Cylinder Position

Any ideas? I'm thinking maybe the dizzy..
 

Nick_C78

New Member
Dizzy for sure. Check the plugs and plug wires and everything first, but I am thinking your igniter died inside of the dizzy.
 

Theasian

New Member
Hmmmm. Its hard to say for certain w.o out access to a scope to test the tdc sensor output. But given the symptoms I would say its very possible the tdc sensor is going out. Check the connector by the alt. I've seen corrosion cause poor Sig.

The sensor is located at the crankshaft. I would say its going out given you symptoms if their rant any wiring issues.
 

iinversion

New Member
Theasian said:
Hmmmm. Its hard to say for certain w.o out access to a scope to test the tdc sensor output. But given the symptoms I would say its very possible the tdc sensor is going out. Check the connector by the alt. I've seen corrosion cause poor Sig.

The sensor is located at the crankshaft. I would say its going out given you symptoms if their rant any wiring issues.
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Isnt' the TDC sensor you are talking about is located on the oil pump for 96+ obd2? Or so I read..
 


Nick_C78

New Member
iinversion said:
I read somewhere that the TDC is only inside the dizzy on obd1 integras, and on the oil pump for obd2?
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If that were true, how could OBD1 cars use OBD2 dizzys with a jumper harness? The one on the oil pump is the Crank Fluctuation sensor.
 


Theasian

New Member
Wait y'all are right I mis read that. Dizzy is likely source of issue. But again check your connector at the dizzy for corrosion.
 

iinversion

New Member
I went back out there and started the car back up and to check some things. When I started the car up it didn't come up with any CEL's and now it runs fine. I'm so confused. I didn't touch anything, it just sat for about ~6 hours.

But I do have this other issue where there will be this loud squealing sound coming from what seems like the alternator pully or crank pully until the car warms up.. But that has been there for awhile. Not sure if related..
 
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JustinMcGee1

I like Hondas
iinversion said:
I went back out there and started the car back up and to check some things. When I started the car up it didn't come up with any CEL's and now it runs fine. I'm so confused. I didn't touch anything, it just sat for about ~6 hours.

But I do have this other issue where there will be this loud squealing sound coming from what seems like the alternator pully or crank pully until the car warms up.. But that has been there for awhile. Not sure if related..
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Does this only happen in the cold?
 

Nick_C78

New Member
iinversion said:
I went back out there and started the car back up and to check some things. When I started the car up it didn't come up with any CEL's and now it runs fine. I'm so confused. I didn't touch anything, it just sat for about ~6 hours.

But I do have this other issue where there will be this loud squealing sound coming from what seems like the alternator pully or crank pully until the car warms up.. But that has been there for awhile. Not sure if related..
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It went away? You havnt by any chance washed your engine bay recently have you? Those symptoms could be caused by water in the dizzy. Or loose connections.


The squeeling is likely an old hard belt. The reason it goes away after warmed up is because warm rubber grips better.
 

iinversion

New Member
Nick4dei said:
It went away? You havnt by any chance washed your engine bay recently have you? Those symptoms could be caused by water in the dizzy. Or loose connections.


The squeeling is likely an old hard belt. The reason it goes away after warmed up is because warm rubber grips better.
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Nope haven't washed it. Maybe something came lose, but other than that it doesn't make sense to me.. I guess I'll see what happens when I go back out to it again later today. I'll check connections and make sure everything is tight and looks good
 

Theasian

New Member
Take the dizzy cap off look for any loose connections inside and metal. The rotor set scene for example. Check your wiring connector at the distributor look for cracks in the wires at the connector. Also check the connectors at the ecu.

If it dose this again check resistance of the sensors. Unplug the dizzy.

And measure resistance between the blue and white wires (ckp sensor)
Green and black wire (tdc)
Red and yellow wires (cyp)
There should be between 300-700 ohms of resistance

More info the cky sensor determine timing for the injectors and spark of each cylinder. It also is what picks up engine speed. The tdc sensor determins ignition timing at start up (cranking). The cyp sensor detects the position of cyl 1for the proper firing of each injector. All three of these sensor are built into the distributor.
 
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