Mirrorimg's build thread

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Cleaned up a few more parts, borrowed a hoist, and put her back in. I had to lower it back down and re-position the engine so that it was more level, because it surely wasnt going in the way I have it mounted in the picture.





I still have to get MTF, install the axles, hook up the shift linkage, and fix my intake manifold.

I broke off the elbow on the back of the IM that the brake boosted attaches to. I will need to either tap it and put a new fitting in there or rig something less spectacular up to get a vacuum to the brake booster.

I wont get around to finishing until after thanksgiving, so I hope to get started on it Friday and finish it on the weekend. Im really disappointed at the setback from the IM.
 
Last edited:

Screech

beer budget white trash
Its cheaper just to get penzoil syncromesh fluid for the trans. when I put a swap together for someone last summer it was like 10 bucks or something from the dealership for a quart of mtf. The syncromesh was ~8.50 a quart I want to say.
I realize select few dont like penzoil products, for the honey additive in there oils- hence the yellow bottle. just a thought, syncromesh is something that I will only use in my transmissions. royal purple is like 19.95 at pep boys for a quart. I am cheap and just wanted to throw that out there, lol.
looks good though man, didnt realize you stayed with brent- nice hoist lol. you gone to bs with hassan at tdc since the two shops moved close to each other?
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Its cheaper just to get penzoil syncromesh fluid for the trans. when I put a swap together for someone last summer it was like 10 bucks or something from the dealership for a quart of mtf. The syncromesh was ~8.50 a quart I want to say.
I realize select few dont like penzoil products, for the honey additive in there oils- hence the yellow bottle. just a thought, syncromesh is something that I will only use in my transmissions. royal purple is like 19.95 at pep boys for a quart. I am cheap and just wanted to throw that out there, lol.
looks good though man, didnt realize you stayed with brent- nice hoist lol. you gone to bs with hassan at tdc since the two shops moved close to each other?
If I were going to get syncromesh, I would have opted for the Friction Modified (FM) which is not like the regular syncromesh like the pennzoil product. I decided to keep it OEM and picked up 4 quarts of Honda MTF, which was about 8 a quart. If I run into a lot of notchyness, I will give the FM Syncromesh a try when I come up for the next fluid change.

The hoist was borrowed from Sage Autosports, they loaned it to me for a day to pull the engine out, then a couple more days to put it back in. Dont know what I would have done if they werent nice enough to let me borrow it. I dont know a Hassan, but I know Philly and Brian. Also, Brent stays with me, just to make that clear ;)

My update, its a long one:

I started work on the car on Friday. Had to pick up a couple things and figure out how to fix the intake manifold elbow. I dont have any pictures, but I will take some tomorrow afternoon. I was able to remove the broken piece inside the manifold and there was enough left on the 90* that I filed and sanded it down to fit snuggly into the manifold. If I run into a vacuum leak problem, I will put some silicone or jb weld to seal it.

Once that was out of the way, I put in my axles, which were easier going in than coming out and hooked up my shift linkage. I filled up the trans with fluid, and the engine with oil. I think I may have to replace the crush washer on the trans fill plug. Ive been reusing the same one for quite some time and I think I have a little leak...

I mixed me up some more coolant (I buy the unmixed and distilled water and mix my own. I get a lot more for my $). Once I did this, I found out I forgot to hook up a coolant line at the back of the intake manifold as well as a pinhole in my radiator from installing my header. I hooked the hose up, and pulled the radiator to alumiweld it with my torch. Im pretty sure I filled the hole, but I will know for sure when it builds pressure.

Saturday was spent trying to find out why my car wouldnt start. I thought everything was good to go! I was getting power, the battery had 12v. The starter wasnt cranking at all, so I attributed it to potentially being a bad solenoid. I had the starter tested at 2 different places, checking out OK at both. I tested and also jumped my clutch switch to no avail, and I even bypassed my started cut relay to get it going. No click, no turn, no noise at all. :( I even cleaned off my grounds, the valve cover ground and also the thermostat ground. I pulled the starter out (now for maybe the 10th time, and cleaned off the tranny surface it touched since I painted it, cleaned the contacts in the starter, and also cleaned off the face of the starter that contacts the tranny.

All of this and nothing... Then I remembered I painted the transmission ground that bolts to the transmission. Its a little metal plate and looked pretty bad when I took it off. I cleaned off the paint where the bolts secure it, as well as the paint on the transmission where it contacts and BOOM. It cranks!!!!!

It took a little while to turn over after forgetting I had my fuel kill enabled... but she started running albeit poorly. Im pretty sure im off a tooth on the timing belt because its camming pretty bad. I will tackle that tomorrow after I attend church, and hopefully will be able to break her in before work on Monday! WOOT im excited.
 

thenoxus1

Quick-Spool Racing LLC
What happened? Traffic is miserable with this rain..
 


mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
For one, my car can't idle for crap and I need to get it tuned, which I was on my way to. Second, I blew my lower radiator hose off the thermostat housing because I forgot to put the spring clamp back onto it. I normally keep emergency tools with me, but didn't have any in the car. My fingers weren't strong enough to compress it and put it back on. Fortunately after 30 minutes one of the passerbys offered help and had some vice grips which did the job perfectly.

I'm on my way home now.

Catching up on pictures.

The cause of the no start issue


The fixed vacuum port.
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Got tuned again and have a much better looking dyno sheet. Made a little more power on this new tune, might increase a little bit more when the motor breaks in completely, but there certainly wont be any 170whp numbers. I will post the sheet up tomorrow night, for now, I'm trying hard not to procrastinate on my self-assessment that's due for my job.

The car running like butt-hole was actually me having too tight of valve lash on a couple pistons and losing all compression in piston #2. This lead to, in effect, a dead cylinder.
 

Kyle

New Member
Look forward to the dyno sheet. I want to see what kind of numbers your making so I can hopefully guestimate what I will make when I do my build. Also would you posting a complete list of your modifications?
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Look forward to the dyno sheet. I want to see what kind of numbers your making so I can hopefully guestimate what I will make when I do my build. Also would you posting a complete list of your modifications?
I dont have a scanner, so I had to take the picture of the paper with my camera. I ended up with 155 HP and 126 TQ. Previous tune as 145 HP and 120 TQ. No parts were changed between the previous tune and now. We played with the cam gears a little, but they ended up performing the best when they were straight up. My tuner said cam gears are only beneficial if the head is milled or the block decked and therefore the overall height changes. Performance would have been better if I had higher compression.

List of performance parts:
B20 P8R Cylinder head (smoothed out intake ports)
Crower 62403 Cams (supporting valvetrain)
Skunk 2 Intake manifold
82mm block, ITR style RS Machine Pistons
DIY Icebox style intake, Hytech replica header, cat-delete and 60mm (2.36") piping all the way back. Tanabe Super Medalion Hyper (SMH) axleback or Mugen Twinloop axleback



I didnt realize it at the time, but one of the bolts at my axle back fell off and gave me a huge exhaust leak. I noticed it the other day when I had some smoke coming from the wheel well, and when I got under there today to put the twin loop on, it was hanging by the one bolt. :oops:



 
Top