Two Questions

Jackmldog

Jack
So I'm saving up for sub and another amp. Probably a kicker l7 12" or Jl12w6. But I would really like later on to put in a upper strut bar in the rear. Now here's my question, how the hell is that gonna work? Should I get the strut bar and build a box around it? I understand it's somewhat counter productive to add weight and get a performance mod. Or should I just trash that idea and get a subframe brace with a bigger sway bar?
 

WAR 178

Premium User
its damn hard to set up the system around a rear strut brace....
You could do it and use the space between the bar and the end of the trunk (very lil space)
IMO...do the lcas,sub brace with aftermarket sway= eye candy for the people behind you lol... and have some knock knock in the trunk.
 

Jackmldog

Jack
WAR 178 said:
its damn hard to set up the system around a rear strut brace....
You could do it and use the space between the bar and the end of the trunk (very lil space)
IMO...do the lcas,sub brace with aftermarket sway= eye candy for the people behind you lol... and have some knock knock in the trunk.
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Will that give me the same amount of anti body roll as a upper strut bar? (that sounds retarded but you know what I'm saying)
 

j13

Keep It Clean
why not shoot for a smaller sub? how much bass do you need? an 8" or 10" with a smaller box will get you nice bass while not adding up lbs in the rear..
 


Alvi84

New Member
OP is 16 and I remember at 16 it was all about bangin' the music... In time that fades out and you will appreciate just driving and hearing the motor threw its gears. If you have your heart set on some kickers or jl audio subs in the tiny teg then do it and go for the subframe brace. Do you plan on tracking the teg with a sub box or just fun spirited driving and would like the added anti-roll?
 

Jackmldog

Jack
Alvi84 said:
OP is 16 and I remember at 16 it was all about bangin' the music... In time that fades out and you will appreciate just driving and hearing the motor threw its gears. If you have your heart set on some kickers or jl audio subs in the tiny teg then do it and go for the subframe brace. Do you plan on tracking the teg with a sub box or just fun spirited driving and would like the added anti-roll?
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I'm going to have to take my age off. Many twelves can hit lows better than an 8 or 10 because of the larger surface area. I like music but not to the point where you can hear me coming down the street. Eventually, I would like to track the teg. Just to many other things (school books, gas, insurance, etc) I've gotta do before I really get into for this coming year.
 

eiznekeM

New Member
j13 said:
why not shoot for a smaller sub? how much bass do you need? an 8" or 10" with a smaller box will get you nice bass while not adding up lbs in the rear..
Click to expand...
I second this, a higher quality small(er) amp paired with a good amp and good install will put out quite nicely.
 


WAR 178

Premium User
I agree with everybody on this....
I went from x2 12" subs down to x1 12"sub(amped with a small amp)
I realized that its too much weight, and waaay overkill on the ears.
I am now down to a Kicker L5 10" sub ported with a small 200=250 watt RMS Xtant amp....sounds damn good and knocks along with the non amped mid range speakers in the cabin of the car.
Then I went with all the suspension goods underneath the car...(buddy club lcas, suspension tech. sway, blackworks subframe brace, beaks lower tie bar, skunk 2 one piece coilovers,neuspeed front upper strut bar,omni power camber kits, ebc slotted rotors w pads)
Ive noticed that I move more going thru turns in my car as opposed to the car itself moving or rolling lol....
The upper strut tower bar doesnt do all that much in terms of roll or flex without all the other goods to combine like voltron to make the drive much more fun!
 

Jackmldog

Jack
WAR 178 said:
I agree with everybody on this....
I went from x2 12" subs down to x1 12"sub(amped with a small amp)
I realized that its too much weight, and waaay overkill on the ears.
I am now down to a Kicker L5 10" sub ported with a small 200=250 watt RMS Xtant amp....sounds damn good and knocks along with the non amped mid range speakers in the cabin of the car.
Then I went with all the suspension goods underneath the car...(buddy club lcas, suspension tech. sway, blackworks subframe brace, beaks lower tie bar, skunk 2 one piece coilovers,neuspeed front upper strut bar,omni power camber kits, ebc slotted rotors w pads)
Ive noticed that I move more going thru turns in my car as opposed to the car itself moving or rolling lol....
The upper strut tower bar doesnt do all that much in terms of roll or flex without all the other goods to combine like voltron to make the drive much more fun!
Click to expand...
Does the l5 hit just as good on the lows? I was wanting an l7 or a w3. But I might consider it.
 

DarkAngelGSR

*JDM Approved*
Surprised no one said it bluntly yet. Scrap the whole idea and just focus on driving =)

Seriously...

jk, by your responses it seems like you REALLY want to have your audio first then "anti-roll" as you referred to it previously. So I'd say bigger sway and ASR Subframe Brace and do what you want in the back. Personally I say quality amp and smaller sub and all the strut, brace, and cross bars possible!
 

Jackmldog

Jack
DarkAngelGSR said:
Surprised no one said it bluntly yet. Scrap the whole idea and just focus on driving =)

Seriously...

jk, by your responses it seems like you REALLY want to have your audio first then "anti-roll" as you referred to it previously. So I'd say bigger sway and ASR Subframe Brace and do what you want in the back. Personally I say quality amp and smaller sub and all the strut, brace, and cross bars possible!
Click to expand...
Haha yea I know.. But thanks for the advice man. I'll probably go with that. Looking at 10s now. I only get an 8 if it's a w7. Those things make me drool
 
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