My new GSR swapppp!!!

Cripton805

New Member
AlexD said:
IMO youre really overrating a bolt on GSR. At the end of the day, numbers are numbers.
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I already proved my point with graphs and logical answers.
All you're saying is wrong and saying nothing about it.

Mmmmm. Sounds like someone is sour.

All you have said is F/I is better and I agreed that was true.
Time after time I said K is better, you seemed to have missed that
but people are under estimating the GSR.
"which is true" which I proved

Who's talking about F/I? You mentioned F/I so much and we aren't even talking about F/I.

As far as you said I was incorrect F/I. So if you go high boost, you can get by if you don't build the bottom end? and Vice versa? Nope.
What's wrong about that statement? That is what I meant by balance.

As far as beating a stock K20.
Give me a price for a K20A2
The full setup to slap it on a Integra
Full bolt ons "Price is damn high for bolt ons"
After you sum it all up would it cost less to drop in a built B18C1?

You keep saying that K20 is better "YES IT IS"
is it a logical setup price wise? "NO"

What's wrong about that, nothing at all.

Yes it flows better, you can possibly get 20-30whp with really REALLY expensive bolt ons.
You can get 10-20whp on the GSR with mildly priced bolt ons.

I really don't understand what your argument is about other than you don't want to admit that I've been right.
 
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michaelz

New Member
O_O this has gone so off topic.

Just to add more fuel for the fire, K > B.

It's lighter, revs more cleanly, better valvetrain and makes more power / torque throughout the range. If you're swapping, this is THE Honda motor to have. There's a reason why Honda put it in just about everything since it replaced the B engine. It's just the better base to work off. Same money into a K will always walk a B with ease. Excluding the cost of actually buying the motor and swapping it into a the car of course.

Having said that, for anyone who doesn't care about beating someone in a straight line, I'll take the B every single time. Just for the way it crosses over into VTEC :D
 
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AlexD

J13 sooo mad
Cripton805 said:
As far as you said I was incorrect F/I. So if you go high boost, you can get by if you don't build the bottom end? and Vice versa?
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The bolded statement above says everything. Boost/psi really doesnt mean much.

btw- bolt ons for a k series can be found for the same price as any bolt on for a gsr.
 

Cripton805

New Member
michaelz said:
O_O this has gone so off topic.

Just to add more fuel for the fire, K > B.

It's lighter, revs more cleanly, better valvetrain and makes more power / torque throughout the range. If you're swapping, this is THE Honda motor to have. There's a reason why Honda put it in just about everything since it replaced the B engine. It's just the better base to work off. Same money into a K will always walk a B with ease. Excluding the cost of actually buying the motor and swapping it into a the car of course.

Having said that, for anyone who doesn't care about beating someone in a straight line, I'll take the B every single time. Just for the way it crosses over into VTEC :D
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That hasn't been the argument... :what:

I think he just doesn't want to admit that it's more logical to swap in a B series for the gains you can get for the price rather than a K series.

Im not really sure.
 


Cripton805

New Member
AlexD said:
The bolded statement above says everything. Boost/psi really doesnt mean much.

btw- bolt ons for a k series can be found for the same price as any bolt on for a gsr.
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Are you serious.... Ohhh gawd. Look up some quality header for a K20. Which would be the most expensive part for some good gains. Everything else is slightly more.
Even Blox is like $600

My point is done... K20s are WAY more expensive. Just to even slap it on a car.

So I guess you can run whatever you want? Without the engine blowing / taking a dump?
 
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AlexD

J13 sooo mad
Cripton805 said:
That hasn't been the argument... :what:

I think he just doesn't want to admit that it's more logical to swap in a B series for the gains you can get for the price rather than a K series.

Im not really sure.
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hey man, swap in whatever you want. The main point Ive been trying to make this entire time is

$1,000 into a gsr head will not let you walk on K20 anything.

$1,000 into a gsr head PLUS Intake/Header/Exhaust/Intake Manifold/Tune will more than likely walk over K20's.

But at the end of the day, the K20 owner will laugh at you for throwing G's into your motor to beat a stock K20 which is nothing to brag about because at the end of the day both cars are still slow (sorry to burst your bubble yet again). Were talking 14 second hondas stock, 13 seconds modded and thats being generous.
 

AlexD

J13 sooo mad
Cripton805 said:
Are you serious.... Ohhh gawd. Look up some quality header for a K20. Which would be the most expensive part for some good gains. Everything else is slightly more.

Even Blox is like $600
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Depends on what you mean by "quality"

I know people who own both of these headers making more power than bolt on tuned GSRs :lol:

http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/SPU-AC11203.html

http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/DCS-AHR6514.html

I wouldnt call these headers garbage either.
 


AlexD

J13 sooo mad
Cripton805 said:
Are you serious.... Ohhh gawd. Look up some quality header for a K20. Which would be the most expensive part for some good gains. Everything else is slightly more.
Even Blox is like $600

My point is done... K20s are WAY more expensive. Just to even slap it on a car.

So I guess you can run whatever you want? Without the engine blowing / taking a dump?
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I think you need to do a little more FI research before you go ahead making assumptions.

I know plenty of people, and have seen bone stock cars without a built bottom end and without a built head make 3x the power they came from factory reliably.

You go ahead and explain to me why PSI means anything with why the bottom end is going to grenade.

I would also like to hear the reason why I have to build my head in order to boost my car (Safely)

BTW my car is on stock GSR cams too.

This is entertaining.
 

AlexD

J13 sooo mad
Here, Ill go ahead and make a new thread for FI just so we can bring this there!
 

Cripton805

New Member
AlexD said:
hey man, swap in whatever you want. The main point Ive been trying to make this entire time is

$1,000 into a gsr head will not let you walk on K20 anything.

$1,000 into a gsr head PLUS Intake/Header/Exhaust/Intake Manifold/Tune will more than likely walk over K20's.

But at the end of the day, the K20 owner will laugh at you for throwing G's into your motor to beat a stock K20 which is nothing to brag about because at the end of the day both cars are still slow (sorry to burst your bubble yet again). Were talking 14 second hondas stock, 13 seconds modded and thats being generous.
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1) 1k for the parts for the head as I stated on page 1.

2) Yes, "WALK" all over them if it's in an Integra, RSX, Possibly win over EK coupe

3) I would laugh because I walked on him after he spent so much money just to drop that stock K20 into his car just to have it stock ."BURN" :lol:

Was this supposed to make me look bad or prove me wrong. You just changed the point of view as half full instead of half empty.
 

Cripton805

New Member
AlexD said:
I think you need to do a little more FI research before you go ahead making assumptions.

I know plenty of people, and have seen bone stock cars without a built bottom end and without a built head make 3x the power they came from factory reliably.

You go ahead and explain to me why PSI means anything with why the bottom end is going to grenade.

I would also like to hear the reason why I have to build my head in order to boost my car (Safely)

BTW my car is on stock GSR cams too.

This is entertaining.
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You can throw a rod, damage the valve springs/retainers/valves, etc... (If stock)

Do you mean the pressure of air?
You have to provide the engine with proper air pressure and fuel to operate properly.

So what you're saying is that you can have a giant turbo providing too much pressure on a stock engine?
Technically you can with a badass tune if you can provide the fuel for the engine, but don't expect it to last long.

Anyway. This is so off topic because I'm not even arguing anything about F/I
 
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