upgrading audio and electrical setup?

Blk_DC

New Member
Wanting to upgrade my system, and big 3 wires.. But Idk if this is sufficient enough in me 94 Integra LS.....

-Everstart maxx 24n w/ 875cca 700ca 3year free replacement warranty

-stock oem altenator

-35w hid

-2 12" RF p2s 500rms each

-front infinity kappa series 90rms tweeters and component speakers

-rear RF 55 rms coaxial speakers

-memphis 4x75 channel amp w/ 55amp fuse

-kenwood kac7204 500rms amp w/ 40 amp fuse

-Pioneer avhp3300bt cc/dvd HU

***800rms system total, and I plan to do the big 3.. but I don't know if I should run:

*2awg-distribution block-4awg for amps w/ 4awg ground
*2awg-distribution block-4awg for altenator,starter, fusebox
*2xbattery ground 2awg each, tranny ground 2awg

I'm not going to upgrade my system I am going to settle with this. this car is my DD

What size is the stock oem altenator wire? Should I run it straight to the distribution block or to the fuse box like normal?


ill probably make a new photo that is more simple, kinda rushed because Im heading to work now lol
Thanks for any suggestions guys!
 
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BeatBox

Real Good!
heres what i did to mine, check out my build page for some more help
[YOUTUBE="BIG3"]HcAY3-J7XyE[/YOUTUBE]
Ran the ground from the battery like normal
grounded block on the opposite side
battery + to alt with NO FUSE ( u can choose to fuse it or not )

for the power wire to the back i ran it straight from teh alt not from the battery, thing is tiny
just ran the wire from the alt back to the 2nd battery :)

heres a link for more pics http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=55720&page=17
check out the pages after it too

asfar as the stock atl wire its prob like an 8g, just add wires when doing the big 3 dont take anything of the old stuff off
 

Blk_DC

New Member
BeatBox said:
heres what i did to mine, check out my build page for some more help
Ran the ground from the battery like normal
grounded block on the opposite side
battery + to alt with NO FUSE ( u can choose to fuse it or not )

for the power wire to the back i ran it straight from teh alt not from the battery, thing is tiny
just ran the wire from the alt back to the 2nd battery :)

heres a link for more pics http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=55720&page=17
check out the pages after it too

asfar as the stock atl wire its prob like an 8g, just add wires when doing the big 3 dont take anything of the old stuff off
Click to expand...
Thanks man!... I am only running one battery.. its in the trunk.. running 2awg to 4awg to everything be good enough over stock wiring.. or should I bump it up?
 

BeatBox

Real Good!
Blk_DC said:
Thanks man!... I am only running one battery.. its in the trunk.. running 2awg to 4awg to everything be good enough over stock wiring.. or should I bump it up?
Click to expand...
i would just do it in 0g, so in the back of your mind your not like "i should of done it in 0g" get it done now and your should be already to go, plus it could only help the bigger you go on the wire
 

crash.1340

Member
i have a genius wannabe co worker saying even if i use two batteries in the back (one main, one accessory), run 1/0 from the main to a 130A upgraded alt then run from there to the fuse block then to the starter, that i could fry the alternator and put excessive strain on the factory electrical system.

i will be bridging the two batteries with a single piece of 1/0 wire (one battery on each side of the car) and giving each battery its own grounding point (then do the big three upgrade up front).

should i aim for a bigger alt than 130 amperes?

i will be running between 800 and 1400W RMS combined power between mids/highs and bass
 

BeatBox

Real Good!
crash.1340 said:
i have a genius wannabe co worker saying even if i use two batteries in the back (one main, one accessory), run 1/0 from the main to a 130A upgraded alt then run from there to the fuse block then to the starter, that i could fry the alternator and put excessive strain on the factory electrical system.

i will be bridging the two batteries with a single piece of 1/0 wire (one battery on each side of the car) and giving each battery its own grounding point (then do the big three upgrade up front).

should i aim for a bigger alt than 130 amperes?

i will be running between 800 and 1400W RMS combined power between mids/highs and bass
Click to expand...
if u run a big system(2k+rms) with the stock alt depending on the condition of the alt you could but with your set up i wouldnt worry

make sure you put two fuses 12inches or so from each + on the batteries, dont wanna fry your car

i would look into upgrading ur alt, 1400rms is kinda border line as far as power goes.suck our acuras come with some tiny alternators and tiny batteries :(
 


crash.1340

Member
haha. my other option is to get the stock alt rewound for about 250A. what is your stance on Kinetik and/or XS Power batteries?
 

GA TEG

New Member
For the power you're talking about, don't even worry about a second batt. Just have a nice batt up front(I have never even upgraded mine and I have run a 2k mono block, and 2x150, and 2x125 on the stock alt and batt before). Just run a nice run of 1/0 to the back and upgrade the batt ground up front with 1/0, and change the engine and chassis ground to 4awg, and change the alt run to a nice 4awg. Anything else is overkill unless you have an upgraded alt doing 150+ continuos, and even at that point 4awg would be ok.


Less is more in the audio realm, and the key is efficiency.
 

crash.1340

Member
that's about what i figured, to be honest but i looooove overkill sometimes. what should i do for minimal dimming? i know the stock alt is a 90A. math tells me that at 100% efficiency (which is just about impossible) that my RMS rating of 1400 W or so at 14V would draw close to 100A, on its own.
 

GA TEG

New Member
Dude. Doesn't equate to that unless you are recreating sin waves on perfectly static ohm loads through your stereo. Simply put, it won't draw anywhere near that when listening to music. The battery itself is what can account for the extra instantaneous current draw.

You'll be fine. I bass raced a perfect 139.9 sealed up in my integra on a stock electrical, after winning 5 rounds of 129.9 class with a perfect score almost every time. No charging in between. It doesn't take much. I have got the crappy Copper-Clad-Aluminum zero gauge too if that tells you anything.


Just do a nice run of zero gauge to the back, no extra batt, alternator, or over sized(and under utilized) 1/0 wiring for the Big 3. Just need to ground the batt with 1/0, and do the engine to chassis ground with 4awg, and the alt run with 4 awg.


Dimming it almost always caused by bad grounds. My lights never dim. Grounds you amps propped, and ground your engine and battery properly and you should not have issues with your setup.
 
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DCiFound

SEAHAWKS!!
Sorry for bumping an old thread. This is what came up in my search, and didn't want to start a new repeated thread.

Also, I wanted to comment on this post, which helped me in my search 8)

GA TEG said:
For the power you're talking about, don't even worry about a second batt. Just have a nice batt up front(I have never even upgraded mine and I have run a 2k mono block, and 2x150, and 2x125 on the stock alt and batt before). Just run a nice run of 1/0 to the back and upgrade the batt ground up front with 1/0, and change the engine and chassis ground to 4awg, and change the alt run to a nice 4awg. Anything else is overkill unless you have an upgraded alt doing 150+ continuos, and even at that point 4awg would be ok.


Less is more in the audio realm, and the key is efficiency.
Click to expand...
I have 1/0 gauge, but what path did you take, to run it to the trunk? Its a fatty wire and can only think of running it under my car.

Can someone help me with this?
 
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