Noob Speaker Setup Question

klutchDb7

ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
This was my setup before I added the sub, hit like a mofo and people made me prove I didn't have a sub :lol:
-Polk Audio MM6501 components and tweeters
-Infinity Kappa 692.9i 6"x9" 2-way loudspeakers
-Kicker ZX series ZX350.4 amp
 

goofygamer

New Member
dude you can do a hidden sub or one sunk into your tire well and still have your room in your trunk. Ill post a pic of my friends, I plan on making mine just like his,looks sweet!

Edit:
This is super clean! Does he have any DIY on how he did this? What did he use underneath the board, fabric, does the car/trunk rattle when the subs hit? I really hate it when things are rattling in the car. This just made me want to go through with a sub! lol

if you want an amp for the speakers;
then both setups will require speaker wire (or RCAs for the sub) to the amp
speaker wire from the amp to the sub/speakers
power to the amp from the battery
the amp itself (duh)

the difference will come in the speakers
4 component speakers ~200
sub+box ~225 (i used a JL Audio w3 with a prefabbed ported probox)

the expense from setting up a sub is the amp and the other little things. which if your willing to pay for that then you can get a sub for as you see, not much more. also, if you do the amp for the speakers you will need a 4 chan, which will cost more than the mono or 2chan that you need for the sub.

in conclusion, if you just want a clearer sound and a bit louder, just buy the component speakers and replace those (to be honest dont even waste your time with the rear speakers...most pros will say they just screw with the sound stage). that would run you ~100. also, pay attention to the depth of the speakers when purchasing for the doors, not all speakers fit. might want to go talk to a shop to see what will, cause its prob different for the 4dr
Thanks for the info. I think you and Andy are persuading me to go with sub haha.

This was my setup before I added the sub, hit like a mofo and people made me prove I didn't have a sub :lol:
-Polk Audio MM6501 components and tweeters
-Infinity Kappa 692.9i 6"x9" 2-way loudspeakers
-Kicker ZX series ZX350.4 amp
I wouldn't be able to runs 6x9s in the rear without fabbing up something. I don't know. I'm thinking of going with a sub now after seeing slick's friend's setup haha. Thanks klutch. I might hit you up for more info. 8)
 
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XslickwhitetegX

UKDM EXPERT
Im not trying to convenience you on anything! just showing you other options, I'll ask my friend what all he used, I'll post it here or PM it to you. I want to do a box like that soon, but instead of mounted on top of MDF I want it mounted lower, but I know he had to raise the floor, but its a tight fit :lol:

btw you could put 6X9 in the rear trunk lid...
 

klutchDb7

ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
I wouldn't be able to runs 6x9s in the rear without fabbing up something. I don't know. I'm thinking of going with a sub now after seeing slick's friend's setup haha. Thanks klutch. I might hit you up for more info. 8)
Well, they also have 6.5s of the infinitys, or just match the polk front and rear lol. But yeah, a sub like that would be a lot of fab but it would be sick :thumbs up Just hit me up with questions though :)
 


goofygamer

New Member
Im not trying to convenience you on anything! just showing you other options, I'll ask my friend what all he used, I'll post it here or PM it to you. I want to do a box like that soon, but instead of mounted on top of MDF I want it mounted lower, but I know he had to raise the floor, but its a tight fit :lol:

btw you could put 6X9 in the rear trunk lid...
haha I know you're not, but with that look, I'm not as hesitant to get a sub anymore. Curious though, but how did he mount the amps to the back of the rear seats? I don't want to do anything to damage these rear seats. You should post it here just in case someone else is interesting in the fab work. Thanks bro!

Well, they also have 6.5s of the infinitys, or just match the polk front and rear lol. But yeah, a sub like that would be a lot of fab but it would be sick :thumbs up Just hit me up with questions though :)
I definitely will. Especially when the wiring comes into play! I've seen people use some thick blue and red wires and yeahh, I'm lost with that. I also see them hook up their wires to a cylinder like tube near the battery that's under the hood...
 

jcrabb13

Registered Abuser
This is super clean! Does he have any DIY on how he did this? What did he use underneath the board, fabric, does the car/trunk rattle when the subs hit? I really hate it when things are rattling in the car. This just made me want to go through with a sub! lol

Thanks for the info. I think you and Andy are persuading me to go with sub haha.
it shouldnt be too hard, the trunk is gonna rattle no matter what unless you dynomat the whole thing ($$)

just buy a stronger piece of plywood and cut your hole. if you want to get creative you can also look into designing a port with a grill over it. mount the amps on the back of the seat and run your wires. it can look ugly as balls underneath that board, but im pretty usre youd want to take out your spare and whatever else has managed to make it down there.

as for persuading you one way or another. i know the sound system is expensive when you dip your toes. personal suggestion (and the way i went about it) replace your door speakers with something of decent quality. if thats not enough, then shell out for the sub and other required pieces.
 

klutchDb7

ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
haha I know you're not, but with that look, I'm not as hesitant to get a sub anymore. Curious though, but how did he mount the amps to the back of the rear seats? I don't want to do anything to damage these rear seats. You should post it here just in case someone else is interesting in the fab work. Thanks bro!



I definitely will. Especially when the wiring comes into play! I've seen people use some thick blue and red wires and yeahh, I'm lost with that. I also see them hook up their wires to a cylinder like tube near the battery that's under the hood...
I mounted my amp to the back of the seat as well. Just find a god place to do it and drill in some hones, really not too bad.

Yes, the thick wires are usually 4 gauge, lets you get enough power to the amps.

Are you referring to these cylinders? If so, those are fuses
 


XslickwhitetegX

UKDM EXPERT
I just use small screws to mount my amps there, on my other teg I cut mdf a little bigger than the amp and painted it black than mounted it to back of seat. Using a little bigger screws, but I have no complaints yet from screw pocking anyone. I'm waiting on another site (cough ti cough) to be up in running before I can ask my buddy exactly the how to's guide. :lol:
 

goofygamer

New Member
it shouldnt be too hard, the trunk is gonna rattle no matter what unless you dynomat the whole thing ($$)

just buy a stronger piece of plywood and cut your hole. if you want to get creative you can also look into designing a port with a grill over it. mount the amps on the back of the seat and run your wires. it can look ugly as balls underneath that board, but im pretty usre youd want to take out your spare and whatever else has managed to make it down there.

as for persuading you one way or another. i know the sound system is expensive when you dip your toes. personal suggestion (and the way i went about it) replace your door speakers with something of decent quality. if thats not enough, then shell out for the sub and other required pieces.
I think I'm going to be dynomatting my car soon. Those things are pretty heavy haha. Slick already sent me the link on how his friend made the sub support in the trunk. If I end up getting subs, I will try and recreate that. Hopefully dynomatting will rid my trunk of rattles because those things are annoying.

I just use small screws to mount my amps there, on my other teg I cut mdf a little bigger than the amp and painted it black than mounted it to back of seat. Using a little bigger screws, but I have no complaints yet from screw pocking anyone. I'm waiting on another site (cough ti cough) to be up in running before I can ask my buddy exactly the how to's guide. :lol:
Thanks for sending me the link! What is "mdf"? I might add the amp to my rear seats, but might do what your friend did with the plywood to the rear seats. I don't really want to poke holes in my seats.


Klutch, I might be contacting you about wiring my deck and speakers to the amp. Also questions about the fuse and the wires themselves. Are there any ways to hide the 4g wires better in the engine bay?
 

klutchDb7

ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
Klutch, I might be contacting you about wiring my deck and speakers to the amp. Also questions about the fuse and the wires themselves. Are there any ways to hide the 4g wires better in the engine bay?
Yep no prob dude. I'm sure you could hide em better, the way I have is just easiest, as they are run though the firewall to the inside. You gan get as complicated as you want, that's just how I did it
 

jcrabb13

Registered Abuser
I think I'm going to be dynomatting my car soon. Those things are pretty heavy haha. Slick already sent me the link on how his friend made the sub support in the trunk. If I end up getting subs, I will try and recreate that. Hopefully dynomatting will rid my trunk of rattles because those things are annoying.



Thanks for sending me the link! What is "mdf"? I might add the amp to my rear seats, but might do what your friend did with the plywood to the rear seats. I don't really want to poke holes in my seats.


Klutch, I might be contacting you about wiring my deck and speakers to the amp. Also questions about the fuse and the wires themselves. Are there any ways to hide the 4g wires better in the engine bay?
trick of the trade: dynomat the back of your LP. thats a common rattle that people dont fix.
 

goofygamer

New Member
Yep no prob dude. I'm sure you could hide em better, the way I have is just easiest, as they are run though the firewall to the inside. You gan get as complicated as you want, that's just how I did it
Thanks for helping man. Hopefully there are some tricks to hide those wires.

trick of the trade: dynomat the back of your LP. thats a common rattle that people dont fix.
Thanks jcrabb. I'll remember that that spot when I do dynomat.
 

mjones73

New Member
I picked up a pair of these for my front doors, hope to get them in soon.

http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/db/index.php?s=db6501

The car had Jensen speakers in it when I got it a few months back and they weren't even bolted in, I was so annoyed I just ripped them out and trashed them.

I replaced the backs with these - http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/db/index.php?s=db651s

I already have an old Alpine 4 channel amp and a JL sub box that's been in my past 4 cars that I've installed in the hatch. I have two of the channels bridged for the sub and I'm going to amp the fronts off the other two.

Here's some good articles I found over on Team Integra.

Add depth if your speakers are deeper then 2 1/4 inches - http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/morningz/78-g3-gaining-front-speaker-depth.html - note as he says at the bottom, MDF is not a good choice to cut rings out of.

Component install tips - http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/morningz/244-g3-component-speaker-installation.html

Two ways to get wiring into the door - http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/morningz/77-g3-running-new-speaker-wire-into-door.html or http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/morningz/301-g3-alternative-running-wires-door.html

And amp install - http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/morningz/99-g3-amp-installation.html

I'd like to go with a smaller or hidden sub enclosure sometime in the future also.
 

jcrabb13

Registered Abuser
jones should organize that and make a stickie. we could all contribute to an epic music install how-to
 
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