the4doorway
New Member
teg looks great man oh and i fixed my headlights and im gonna clean them up in the spring time but yea i resealed them by putting them in the oven at 250 and reheated the glue and clamped it down to reseal it
BeatBox's New Project 98 Acura Integra
- Thread starter BeatBox
- Start date
IsAlwaysBroken
All Stock
I want a 98+ Rear bumper so bad.. your car is NICE
BeatBox
Real Good!
thanks, yeah back in the day i tried it in the oven and my mom wasnt to happy about it lol
yeah mine is not that good of a shape, i was trying to find another one but no luck so far
thanks, it hasnt been this clean since early december
Crazyg1735
New Member
dude i must say your teg is fly, but damn that korean friend of your with that mk4 supra is lucky!! your rides lookin nice though.
BeatBox
Real Good!
thanks, yeah they have $$$$ but dont bragg about it, i was gonna buy his 91 Teg but he sold it
erikonetime
everything goes
I have 4 10" JL's with a 2400 watt Volfenhag amp pushing them. It sounds really good but the boxes are from my old truck, so it looks dumb. Hoping to build a better one pretty soon here, this thread is inspiring!
BeatBox
Real Good!
i like their w7s expensive but for the right price, once they get the power needed and the right box they hit loooooowI have 4 10" JL's with a 2400 watt Volfenhag amp pushing them. It sounds really good but the boxes are from my old truck, so it looks dumb. Hoping to build a better one pretty soon here, this thread is inspiring!
let me know when u need a design! got some ppl that make designs for boxes depending on what subs/amps/space/hz you are running
dont buy prefab BS boxes, "never again!" i said to myself i have two sitting in my basement collecting dust payed $100 for each one. made one for $30 and sounds louder than them
BeatBox
Real Good!
So here's how to do TheBig3 upgrade in a 98 Integra with a b18 Engine
What it is? the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring.
Here's a link for more specific instructions: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1
Now there's different ways of hooking up the wires so this is my way of doing it.
You can use either 0g or 4g anything smaller is not worth the time.
Your basically adding wires so you DONT need to cut your oem wires that are already ran under the engine bay.
Heres the voltage before I started you wont see too much of a difference here, its when you have an amp that it does a better job of charging up your battery or batteries quicker.
To start you need you wire either the 0g or the 4g, to do it the way I did it here's the different lengths with a little room to play.
1st wire Alternator to battery - 40 inches (mine was alittle too long, but better too long than not long enough)
2nd wire Neg Battery post - 13 inches
3rd wire Engine to Chasis - 22 inches
You can use a fuse half way thru the Pos wire to the alternator if you wish but I chose no to
Here's the tools I used to get the wires ready, I prefer to crimp the ends but you can also solder them if you choose
Vice Grips
Butter knife (I know weird but it works like a champ)
Extra battery terminals
Electrical Tape (you can also use heat shrink)
Measuring tape
Cut your wires to size(dont mind the wire being wrapped in tape, it was a different color so..)
Expose the wire at each end and attach the battery terminals to the end of the wire, make sure they are tight and don't come off
I use the plastic piece they come with and use electrical tape on top of that
What it is? the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring.
Here's a link for more specific instructions: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1
Now there's different ways of hooking up the wires so this is my way of doing it.
You can use either 0g or 4g anything smaller is not worth the time.
Your basically adding wires so you DONT need to cut your oem wires that are already ran under the engine bay.
Heres the voltage before I started you wont see too much of a difference here, its when you have an amp that it does a better job of charging up your battery or batteries quicker.
To start you need you wire either the 0g or the 4g, to do it the way I did it here's the different lengths with a little room to play.
1st wire Alternator to battery - 40 inches (mine was alittle too long, but better too long than not long enough)
2nd wire Neg Battery post - 13 inches
3rd wire Engine to Chasis - 22 inches
You can use a fuse half way thru the Pos wire to the alternator if you wish but I chose no to
Here's the tools I used to get the wires ready, I prefer to crimp the ends but you can also solder them if you choose
Vice Grips
Butter knife (I know weird but it works like a champ)
Extra battery terminals
Electrical Tape (you can also use heat shrink)
Measuring tape
Cut your wires to size(dont mind the wire being wrapped in tape, it was a different color so..)
Expose the wire at each end and attach the battery terminals to the end of the wire, make sure they are tight and don't come off
I use the plastic piece they come with and use electrical tape on top of that
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BeatBox
Real Good!
Now that you have the wires ready go out the vehicle
DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY!
Now to attach the wires
1st wire Negative side of battery to clean metal
One end to you battery, then the other to this bolt on passenger side
Make sure the surface where your battery terminal is going to sit is clean of dirt and paint
I took a wire brush to it(got a little crazy on it )
Attach wire to the bolt and tighten the bolt down
Might have to either drill or cut the terminal so it fits over the bolt like this
After its attached it should look like this
2nd wire Engine to clean metal/chasis
One end of wire to this bolt on the front of the engine
Again clean surface before screwing down the terminal
The bolt was a little bigger than the hole in the terminal so I drilled it a little bigger to fit
Left one is after drilling Right one is before
The other end goes to this bolt on the drivers side, clean surface first and then bolt down terminal
After attached it should look like this
3rd wire Pos side of battery to alternator
For this step you dont have to remove the alternator or lift the car you can do it as is.
Start with running the wire behind the engine AWAY from anything hot or moving parts
Then attach the first side to the top of the alternator
Pull the rubber piece off the top of the alternator back and loosen the bolt, take the old wire off and put the new terminal on first then old wire back on then tighten down. Dont go too tight!
Before terminal
After attaching the new terminal
After that attach the other end of the wire to you battery
Finish it off by using zip ties to keep the wires where they are.
Heres video of the finished product (crappy video)
[YOUTUBE="TheBig3"]HcAY3-J7XyE[/YOUTUBE]
My new voltage
Any question let me know, Im sure I missed something
DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY!
Now to attach the wires
1st wire Negative side of battery to clean metal
One end to you battery, then the other to this bolt on passenger side
Make sure the surface where your battery terminal is going to sit is clean of dirt and paint
I took a wire brush to it(got a little crazy on it
) Attach wire to the bolt and tighten the bolt down
Might have to either drill or cut the terminal so it fits over the bolt like this
After its attached it should look like this
2nd wire Engine to clean metal/chasis
One end of wire to this bolt on the front of the engine
Again clean surface before screwing down the terminal
The bolt was a little bigger than the hole in the terminal so I drilled it a little bigger to fit
Left one is after drilling Right one is before
The other end goes to this bolt on the drivers side, clean surface first and then bolt down terminal
After attached it should look like this
3rd wire Pos side of battery to alternator
For this step you dont have to remove the alternator or lift the car you can do it as is.
Start with running the wire behind the engine AWAY from anything hot or moving parts
Then attach the first side to the top of the alternator
Pull the rubber piece off the top of the alternator back and loosen the bolt, take the old wire off and put the new terminal on first then old wire back on then tighten down. Dont go too tight!
Before terminal
After attaching the new terminal
After that attach the other end of the wire to you battery
Finish it off by using zip ties to keep the wires where they are.
Heres video of the finished product (crappy video)
[YOUTUBE="TheBig3"]HcAY3-J7XyE[/YOUTUBE]
My new voltage
Any question let me know, Im sure I missed something
Last edited: