Noob needs help obd0 vs. obd1

[new2fourcyl]

I know nothing about this scene but I'm eager and willing to learn. I have just aquired a 1990 integra 3door that was at one time I believe a full race car of some kind. The motor is a b17a1. From what I understan a 90 is obd0 and the motor would be obd1??? The idle is hunting badly between 1500-3100 rpm and I dont know why? I also would like to know how to identify my head and wether or not I have the ys1 trans? Any and all help is greatly apprieciated as I want this to be a father son project andI am lost lol

 

[BrokenTalon27]

I know nothing about this scene but I'm eager and willing to learn. I have just aquired a 1990 integra 3door that was at one time I believe a full race car of some kind. The motor is a b17a1. From what I understan a 90 is obd0 and the motor would be obd1??? The idle is hunting badly between 1500-3100 rpm and I dont know why? I also would like to know how to identify my head and wether or not I have the ys1 trans? Any and all help is greatly apprieciated as I want this to be a father son project andI am lost lol

The idle may be caused by running the wrong ECU. Also, check your IACV, FITV, and the TPS. There are write ups on here on how to if you search with those key words.
Find out what ECU you are running. To do that, pull back the passenger side carpeting and remove the plate covering the ECU. Take off the nuts mounting the ECU to the floor board. Read the code on it. You're interested in the 3 digit middle portion of the part number on the side of the ECU.
If you are not running the proper ECU, which I forsee you aren't, you'll need to procure one. The proper ECU for that motor is the P61. It's a bit difficult to find these days. You can get another ECU such as a P28, p72, or P30 and have it socket so you can put a rewritable chip on it.
You'll need to get an OBD0 to OBD1 jumper harness and a Honda 4 wire O2 sensor to convert the car. You'll also be able to wire up Vtec with the wires provided in the harness.
Your head is a PR3 casting. You can find this on the front of the head, above the exhaust manifold flange.
You can check the transmission by looking at the VIN on the trans. It's located on the bell housing just to the left of where you found your engine code on the block.
Hope this helps.

 

[new2fourcyl]

Damn your my new hero lol you have been a wealth of info thank you very much

 

[Cripton805]

Damn your my new hero lol you have been a wealth of info thank you very much

I'm pretty sure everything was converted correctly. Theres a little valve on the intake manifold under or on top of the Intake tubing. (Looks like a flathead screw / bolt & is gold color) You can turn it clockwise to help lower the idle and turn it counter clockwise to let it rev higher.

Wait until it's warm to do this. You can also do what the other guy told you though to make sure.

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

what color plugs does your distributor and injectors have? That will tell you right now which obd you are...Yellow=obd0 Grey=obd1

 

[new2fourcyl]

I will check that out asap Im in Missouri and it has been damn cold and alot of snow so I havent been out under the hood since last snowfall. But thanks for the info. man I read your thread on your build I give nothing but respect to you sir that is just amazing and inspiring to me. Btw Congrats on your Son (the lifelong build) Mine is 18 now and I have finally gotten him interested in cars with this one so I definately intend to go all out.

 

[new2fourcyl]

Ok went and cleaned the snow off her and felt guilty for letting it sit on it for so long. the injector plugs are grey and it has a p28 computer just laying under the carpet with some form of butcher job harness adapter I believe (pisses me off) if your gonna do something do it right. would it really be that difficult to bolt the computer back up and put a cover on it to protect it????? I mean at one point in this cars life it was supposed to be insanely fast from what I hear when ppl stop at my house and ask if such and such is here (the previous owner) I say no they ask about the car and will I sell it and how it used to be so fast. everything I see is that all the mods done were done half ass just enough to make it run with no class or style I mean I know nothing and I mean nothing more than how an internal combustion engine works and I would have given the swap alot more care to than what was done. sorry for the rant lol

 

[new2fourcyl]

The idle may be caused by running the wrong ECU. Also, check your IACV, FITV, and the TPS. There are write ups on here on how to if you search with those key words.
Find out what ECU you are running. To do that, pull back the passenger side carpeting and remove the plate covering the ECU. Take off the nuts mounting the ECU to the floor board. Read the code on it. You're interested in the 3 digit middle portion of the part number on the side of the ECU.
If you are not running the proper ECU, which I forsee you aren't, you'll need to procure one. The proper ECU for that motor is the P61. It's a bit difficult to find these days. You can get another ECU such as a P28, p72, or P30 and have it socket so you can put a rewritable chip on it.
You'll need to get an OBD0 to OBD1 jumper harness and a Honda 4 wire O2 sensor to convert the car. You'll also be able to wire up Vtec with the wires provided in the harness.
Your head is a PR3 casting. You can find this on the front of the head, above the exhaust manifold flange.
You can check the transmission by looking at the VIN on the trans. It's located on the bell housing just to the left of where you found your engine code on the block.
Hope this helps.

The head says pr3-3 but I can find no label on the trans it has a stamp on it that looks hand stamped like for a rebuild 6 23 03 but was definately hand stamped. trans is clean as a whistle no other markings I can find. trans looks like it was hot tanked kinda lol any other identifying marks??

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

I will check that out asap Im in Missouri and it has been damn cold and alot of snow so I havent been out under the hood since last snowfall. But thanks for the info. man I read your thread on your build I give nothing but respect to you sir that is just amazing and inspiring to me. Btw Congrats on your Son (the lifelong build) Mine is 18 now and I have finally gotten him interested in cars with this one so I definately intend to go all out.

Thanks man, always nice to hear stuff like that. Yeah he is definitley a life long build lol.

Well now that we've figured out you have an obd1 setup, lets figure out which trans you have. Next chance you get to drive the car, get on the highway and do a 55mph 5th gear pull and let us know what RPM your tach is at. That will help figure out which transmission you have.

 

[new2fourcyl]

I'm pretty sure everything was converted correctly. Theres a little valve on the intake manifold under or on top of the Intake tubing. (Looks like a flathead screw / bolt & is gold color) You can turn it clockwise to help lower the idle and turn it counter clockwise to let it rev higher.

Wait until it's warm to do this. You can also do what the other guy told you though to make sure.

The idle adjustment screw is all the way out still a 1500 min. idle I tried that first lol, I am very mechanically inclined Im just completely new to imports but thank you for the suggestion I do apprieciate it this I believe is either IAC or TPS related (if thats the proper import tern for them) now that I see the computer is at least a correct possibility for this car that was a huge concern. If it were a ford I would take the iac off and clean it with some carb cleaner or starting fluid and make sure the plunger is moving freely and not gummed up with carbon. I believe I will try this unless there is a teflon coating inside it like some american cars use

 

[new2fourcyl]

I'm pretty sure everything was converted correctly. Theres a little valve on the intake manifold under or on top of the Intake tubing. (Looks like a flathead screw / bolt & is gold color) You can turn it clockwise to help lower the idle and turn it counter clockwise to let it rev higher.

Wait until it's warm to do this. You can also do what the other guy told you though to make sure.

I will check in this specific location for another screw like an idle control actuator with a jam nut?

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

I wonder if the ecu has been chipped, reason being is, if not then your running a sohc map on a dohc motor.

Is the idle going up and down or staying at a consistant rpm? If its going up and down irradically then most likely its the IAC, if its staying at a steady rpm say 1500 and wont go down any lower check for a vaccum leak. I had a EG coupe that had a 1500rpm idle on warm days and 3k idle on cold days on startup, ended up being the brake booster vaccum line that was the culprit.

 

[new2fourcyl]

I wonder if the ecu has been chipped, reason being is, if not then your running a sohc map on a dohc motor.

Is the idle going up and down or staying at a consistant rpm? If its going up and down irradically then most likely its the IAC, if its staying at a steady rpm say 1500 and wont go down any lower check for a vaccum leak. I had a EG coupe that had a 1500rpm idle on warm days and 3k idle on cold days on startup, ended up being the brake booster vaccum line that was the culprit.

Is there a way I can check if it is chipped? and yes it starts up idles ok but once warm it is pretty steady going 1500-3000 just up and down constantly. I figured at start up it was not using the IAC yet and once it looks at it it goes erratic unless or maybe once it goes off cold start lean?? I dunno Im grasping at straws lol. I did get some pics up that are pretty big if anyone wants to check them out

 

[new2fourcyl]

I also assume the IAC motor is bolted to the back of the plenum by a couple approx.. 13mm bolts and looks like most IAC motors lol

 

[BrokenTalon27]

OP, pull the ECU out for a minute and pop off the 5 screws on the top. Then take a pic of the board and we can tell if it's socketed.
2 possibilities:
A) It isn't socketed and chipped and needs to be. Most places I've seen charge $75-125 to do this.
B) It is socketed and you need to get someone to burn a p61 base map onto a chip.
Most tuners will burn you a base map like that for $10-20. They just might have to go online to get the p61 map.