b18a1 work or just swap?

[emd513]

knife the crank is grinding down the journals of it in to a knife shape. reduces weight and friction when it gos threw the oil. i say do the lsvtec if you like is cause everyone seems to be doing that or a vtec swap. i want to do something different. so im running a b18a bored 40 over that should be 82mm and porting the head as far as that bitch will let me. bigger valves double springs stage 3 cams from brian crower. if your going to bore i reccomend at least 20 over but no more than 40 or you will be replacing sleeves. hope this helps man good luck with what ever you decide

 

[nathan_carmona]

knife the crank is grinding down the journals of it in to a knife shape. reduces weight and friction when it gos threw the oil. i say do the lsvtec if you like is cause everyone seems to be doing that or a vtec swap. i want to do something different. so im running a b18a bored 40 over that should be 82mm and porting the head as far as that bitch will let me. bigger valves double springs stage 3 cams from brian crower. if your going to bore i reccomend at least 20 over but no more than 40 or you will be replacing sleeves. hope this helps man good luck with what ever you decide

Thanks man that does help! I don't any equipment to do any machining so what ever I do as far as knifing is up pending on what the machine shop knows how to do.

I'm leaning towards a gsr motor bored 30 over with full floating rods, bigger pistons (idk whether to go high compression or not?), bigger valves, aftermarket springs and retainers, port and polished head, brian crower cams (they seem like a good buy for the money) ARP rods and studs, like 450cc injectors (when I'm done with the engine I'll do the math to see what I need), idk what intake mani and throttle body yet, Mishimoto radiator, AC delete, I want OBD1 but if I get OBD2 I'll get the jumper harness and get that programmable hondata unit that shuts up those stupid codes, and idk what ecu to get, and a b16 tranny with an integra ls final drive.


So someone check that please and see if I'm not totally retarded.

And here's my need to know list:

what size injectors

what intake mani and throttle body

high comrpession pistons or not

what ecu

and what computer stuff I should get (I come from fully carb and N/A background so when it come to computers :shock: IDK what the hell I'm getting into lol)

 

[Samurai_Blue]

Thanks man that does help! I don't any equipment to do any machining so what ever I do as far as knifing is up pending on what the machine shop knows how to do.

I'm leaning towards a gsr motor bored 30 over with full floating rods, bigger pistons (idk whether to go high compression or not?), bigger valves, aftermarket springs and retainers, port and polished head, brian crower cams (they seem like a good buy for the money) ARP rods and studs, like 450cc injectors (when I'm done with the engine I'll do the math to see what I need), idk what intake mani and throttle body yet, Mishimoto radiator, AC delete, I want OBD1 but if I get OBD2 I'll get the jumper harness and get that programmable hondata unit that shuts up those stupid codes, and idk what ecu to get, and a b16 tranny with an integra ls final drive.


So someone check that please and see if I'm not totally retarded.

And here's my need to know list:

what size injectors

what intake mani and throttle body

high comrpession pistons or not

what ecu

and what computer stuff I should get (I come from fully carb and N/A background so when it come to computers :shock: IDK what the hell I'm getting into lol)

you seem to be a little confused here. a GSR motor bored .25 over with JDM itr oversized pistons yeilds 11.5:1 static compression at sea level. Thats a good start since you want to build a NA motor i assume. You need ocmpression to build a NA motor. Your idea about bigger valves is slightly wrong. Bigger isnt always better, you want FLAT FACED high compression valves STANDARD SIZED to deal with high compression pistons and more aggressive cams. A flat faced valve will bump compression up .3, giving you with the jdm itr pistsons a 11.8:1 Static compression and then you can get into doing a 2 layer head gasket and decking the head and you can get 12.5:1 at which you can run a Pro2+ cam or a big buddy club cam or the crower stage 3 cam. Crower and ARP are good choices, i prefer skunk2 Pro series because of the better power band. 440 injectors are way too damn big for your set up. 200whp requires 328cc injectors.i would go with a 370cc injector to give you buffer room. The Mishimoto radiator is a good idea, however i suggest getting the fans, radiator, liquid chill, hoses, fan switch, and thermostat to keep the motor cool. :thumbs up Mishimoto FTMFW .Hondata will not work with OBD2 ECUs for this set up i would use a hondata s100 on a p28 or obd1 p72. or any obd1 vtec ecu for that matter. Intake manifold i would look into Edlebrok performer x or skunk2 pro series with a 68mm tb. the b16 and the ls have tjhe same final drives, its the gear ratios that make it longer.

 

[nathan_carmona]

you seem to be a little confused here. a GSR motor bored .25 over with JDM itr oversized pistons yeilds 11.5:1 static compression at sea level. Thats a good start since you want to build a NA motor i assume. You need ocmpression to build a NA motor. Your idea about bigger valves is slightly wrong. Bigger isnt always better, you want FLAT FACED high compression valves STANDARD SIZED to deal with high compression pistons and more aggressive cams. A flat faced valve will bump compression up .3, giving you with the jdm itr pistsons a 11.8:1 Static compression and then you can get into doing a 2 layer head gasket and decking the head and you can get 12.5:1 at which you can run a Pro2+ cam or a big buddy club cam or the crower stage 3 cam. Crower and ARP are good choices, i prefer skunk2 Pro series because of the better power band. 440 injectors are way too damn big for your set up. 200whp requires 328cc injectors.i would go with a 370cc injector to give you buffer room. The Mishimoto radiator is a good idea, however i suggest getting the fans, radiator, liquid chill, hoses, fan switch, and thermostat to keep the motor cool. :thumbs up Mishimoto FTMFW .Hondata will not work with OBD2 ECUs for this set up i would use a hondata s100 on a p28 or obd1 p72. or any obd1 vtec ecu for that matter. Intake manifold i would look into Edlebrok performer x or skunk2 pro series with a 68mm tb. the b16 and the ls have tjhe same final drives, its the gear ratios that make it longer.

I had never heard of anyone decking a b18 head lol my ignorance! my b!

in that case hells yeah! such an easy way to gain compression!

So don't get bigger valves? Just stay the same size?

 

[Samurai_Blue]

I had never heard of anyone decking a b18 head lol my ignorance! my b!

in that case hells yeah! such an easy way to gain compression!

So don't get bigger valves? Just stay the same size?

same size. skunk2 recomended to me when going to a pro series cam regular sized valves are good cause of the cam profile and the nature of high comp pistons. i would stay away from ctr pistons and a gsr head. i suggest the skunk2 pro1 cam.

 

[nathan_carmona]

same size. skunk2 recomended to me when going to a pro series cam regular sized valves are good cause of the cam profile and the nature of high comp pistons. i would stay away from ctr pistons and a gsr head. i suggest the skunk2 pro1 cam.

Thanks man I really value your advice cause I know you race and that's what I'm trying to do!

 

[emd513]

you can also deck the block as well as shaving the head to build compression. i saw one on youtube that claims to have 14:1 compression. which is fucking crazy. but i dont think you should go as far as decking to zero which means no clearence from piston to head. i have to look that up my self so i know where to go with mine. but deffinately want alot of compression with a n/a motor. also unless your going to run a vtec head dont get the victor x it clearly states that it is best use in the 7 to 10,000 rpm range while the skunk2 give a much more fluctuation on the rpm range. like samurai said unless you turbo and go to 400 whp there is no need in injectors that size. im pretty sure i heard on a thread here that the stock injectors or good up to 400. so i see no need in changing those. also when you bore your motor make sure to get a head gasket that matches the bore not one that matches the stock bore.

 

[nathan_carmona]

you can also deck the block as well as shaving the head to build compression. i saw one on youtube that claims to have 14:1 compression. which is fucking crazy. but i dont think you should go as far as decking to zero which means no clearence from piston to head. i have to look that up my self so i know where to go with mine. but deffinately want alot of compression with a n/a motor. also unless your going to run a vtec head dont get the victor x it clearly states that it is best use in the 7 to 10,000 rpm range while the skunk2 give a much more fluctuation on the rpm range. like samurai said unless you turbo and go to 400 whp there is no need in injectors that size. im pretty sure i heard on a thread here that the stock injectors or good up to 400. so i see no need in changing those. also when you bore your motor make sure to get a head gasket that matches the bore not one that matches the stock bore.

I am going vtec. That's a definite now. but I've been looking and IDK whether to buy a whole engine with ecu and harness or just a long block, or just a short block. Ooooor just buy each piece individually :/ If I buy each piece individually I'm afraid I'll miss a sensor or something :shock: call me paranoid but I don't want to royally screw up

 

[emd513]

do a ls vtec then so you get low end torque and the high end. and build it and you will get what you want out of it. i wouldnt worry about missing sensors, you can always go back and pick up the ones you missed at a local junkyard.

 

[nathan_carmona]

iight so I've run into a road block. I forgot about the fact that I have to run race gas on an11+:1 compression engine and I looked into the price of race fuel and I just dont wanna pay that much.

So how about an ls turbo set up?

I'm thinkin b18a bloack with a b16 or b20 head with worked internals and a b16 tranny?

So b16 head or b20 head?

And if I swap from a tranny on a cable to a hydro tranny what do I do? convert the tranny or convert my set up?

 

[nathan_carmona]

What's a better head: b20 or b16?

Dont tell me anything about cams or valves or springs cause I'm going aftermarket for all of that. Which HEAD is better? Or is there any difference? I'm going for an ls turbo set up so no vtec. I know I'm not getting vtec with these heads and thats fine. ONCE AGAIN, i know these aren't vtec heads and I dont want vtec. (sorry some people just don't read stuff right the first time and then theres confusion)