b20V clank!

[DumaDa9]

you went about your "b20vtec" build all wrong dude. He just slapped a b16 head on your b20 block. B20 vtec conversion kit to use the oil line for the head??? No arp headstuds? That motor isnt going to last at all. To be honest with you, whoever put the head on for you sounds like an idiot who doesnt know what they're doing

 

[HKDxSAVIER]

you went about your "b20vtec" build all wrong dude. He just slapped a b16 head on your b20 block. B20 vtec conversion kit to use the oil line for the head??? No arp headstuds? That motor isnt going to last at all. To be honest with you, whoever put the head on for you sounds like an idiot who doesnt know what they're doing

no they put a oil line kit sandwich plate not tapped and pretty much i havent revvd it past 6500
and not going to withough head studs or the bottom rings upgraded.... and pretty much yeah
i know i screwed up by not researching my shit thouroughly and getting it done myself or friends.
my motor is going to last becuase im going to re-adjust my valves get arp head studs and the bottom things to safely spin to 8500 im not a total noob i just tried trusting someone and got screwed shit nigga lol and i was asking what should i do (advice) not asking to be criticized fck man

 

[mirrorimg]

ARP Rod bolts are what you're talking about. From what I have read, reusing OEM Head bolts is fine, because they are not TTY (which effectively means replace them after use).

Get a feeler gauge, a 10 or 12mm wrench, and a screw driver for the head. You need a longer socket wrench with a 17 or 19mm socket. If its anything like a non-VTEC on adjusting the valve lash, it should be a cake walk.

Follow these directions. Its really not that hard.

 

[ixcocoyxi]

i trusted my one of my homie's to adjust my valves.. he made em louder..

i then went to my integ buddy and he showed me the proper way to do it. soooo smooth.. i wont let that fool touch my ride EVAR!!

but yeah. its relatively easy to adjust. find out what the gap is supposed to be at, and go one lower and make sure it feels like it drags but doesnt get stuck..

 

[Rich-PMS]

Don't drop the N bomb on a forum, you'll lose respect from members

 

[DumaDa9]

its not about criticizing you. You shouldnt even be driving the car, you're basically driving a motor thats not put together. Stock head studs are not going to hold at high rpms. I know someone who made that mistake and it wasnt pretty. ARP rodbolts are not always necessary, it is recommended, but i know ALOT of people who didnt use them and their motors lasted for 5+ years and still going strong. I would say, put in your arp headstuds, get your valves adjusted, get the proper ecu for your setup even if you have to convert to ob1 (if you arent already) and get your car tuned. Until then i wouldnt be driving it.

 

[HKDxSAVIER]

ARP Rod bolts are what you're talking about. From what I have read, reusing OEM Head bolts is fine, because they are not TTY (which effectively means replace them after use).

Get a feeler gauge, a 10 or 12mm wrench, and a screw driver for the head. You need a longer socket wrench with a 17 or 19mm socket. If its anything like a non-VTEC on adjusting the valve lash, it should be a cake walk.

Follow these directions. Its really not that hard.

its says i can also use cam gears to be able to adjust to 0 degree is that just as good?

never mind that qeustion i read the bottom wrong lol

 

[HKDxSAVIER]

whats the intake and exhuast valve range i should be setting it too

i researched all night and everyone is contradicting each other on valve clearence....

"if u have b20z pistons u dont have to adjust" i called a place today and he said that
it might be detenation because my shits not tuned yet and its blah blah blah
and i need to bring up my fuel pressure highrer then stock 34 becuase since its a b20 bottom end
it is 84mm compared to the b18 thats 80mm so it needs more fuel and i also saw a write up on a b20b vtec b16 head and that doesnt say anything about increasing the stupid fuel pressure.

i just find it crazy how people mix shit up so crazy. =\

so could it be my shits not tuned and that could cause the valves to hit?
if so im trying to find somewhere were they will sell me 1 sst blank chip and
the spacer thing and chip it myself its not hard.
then i will just pay for it to be tuned and dynoed.

i have only 200 bucks credit on my card so i dont have any other money this is my
daily driver and there going to call me back to work sometime next this week.
i wasnt working before this so i have no income yet. so i dont want to spend money on shit
i dont need to at the moment.

thnx mirror your always good info dude =]]

so is everyone else thanks lol

 

[mirrorimg]

You set the valve last depending on the cams themselves. So if they are B18C1 cams in a GSR head, use the GSR valve lash specs.

The pistons wont have anything to do with it. You would need some BIG cams and very high domed pistons to near piston to valve contact. You have nothing to worry about.

 

[HKDxSAVIER]

hmm weird i have it all wrong in my head then...

yeah so i think there stock b16 cams but how do i identify the b16 head i got...

once i know i can probably wikipedia it..

thanks lots

 

[HKDxSAVIER]

okay so i dont think its my valves anymore my arp head studs just came in...

and i am about to buy a golden eagle head gasket....

my friend just told me that it would raise my compression?
that sounds stupid to me

yeah if it was leaking it would restore comp. but raise it i dont think so but idk

can someone clarify?