New Audio System Problems

sylvaner01

New Member
I added a new audio system to my 92 Integra about 3 months ago and it has been running great.
This is my setup:
Rear: 4x6" Sony 50w speakers
Front: Fusion 120w speakers
200WRMS Alpine sub
1000W Kenwood mono amp

My system was installed by my and a mate (my mate being fully qualified)

It seems my alternator or my distributor or SOMETHING is not keeping up.
At high revs my battery light comes on, when I am drawing too my current my battery light comes on.
My Dad thinks that my alternator is overcharging my battery which then turns the battery light on, but if it were overcharging my battery then why are my lights dimming and my indicators clicking slowly, to me this seems like a mystery impossible to solve.

I took my sub out and my car is running awesome, but my stereo doesn't have the soul it used to so I want to put it back in because its useless having $500 worth of amp and sub just sitting there.

One thing that I though was a bit dodgy was my mates idea of bridging the connections of my amp in order to get full use of the amp.
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What do you think CI, any help would be much appreciated =D
Thanks, Jack
 

killjoy

New Member
you do not need those jump loops, its a monoblock amplifier - which means no matter what you're just putting out 1 channel. Thats already done on the inside of the amp


Sounds like your alt cannot keep up with your amp, you may have the gain set too high (in other words you're expecting too much from your setup)

also, you shouldn't be throwing 1000w at a 200w woofer, you're going to blow it quickly
 

sylvaner01

New Member
The gain is set prety low, we made precautions not to set it too high fully knowing what the amp was capable of.
If I sold that amp and downgraded would it put less strain on the alternator? If I AM only powering a 200WRMS sub would the amp still require 1000W in order to work? or would it adjust accordingly.
Cheers
 

killjoy

New Member
yes, a lower wattage amp would put less strain on your alt.
 


99Integrags

New Member
Thats too much amp for that sub anyways... but a capacitor for sure would help you!
 


inteeegraaaaaa

New Member
A capacitor WILL:
-Act as a filter for AC ripple effect caused by the imperfect rectification of the AC current produced by an alternator, and rectified by a DC voltage regulator.
-Smooth the demand curve for current on the alternator, thus extending (theoretically at least) the alternator's lifespan, and, on a not so good note, this can also help to mask the symptoms of an insufficient alternator by smoothing these spikes that also cause the more obvious signs of a weak charging system, like dimming headlights when the bass hits.
-Reduce propagation delays in current supply for brief, spiked demands by the amplifier from the amplifier, and response to this by the electrical system. Amplifiers have to provide a very dynamic and quick response many times. A capacitor can assist in this if the rest of the charging system is up to par.
A capacitor will NOT:
-make your system magically sound 10 times better. Many people believe that a capacitor adds NO real benefit to an audio system, and this is why you never see before and after demonstrations, or factory capacitor company vehicles at car shows.
-Replace the need for a larger, high-output alternator and/or a deep-cycle battery or batteries.
If your electrical system is inadequate, the ONLY way to fix this, and again I repeat, the ONLY WAY to fix this, is to replace the alternator if your voltage rails are sagging to below 12 volts while the car is running. This is the SOLE source of electrical current for your car when the motor is running. The car's battery is in parallel with the alternator, and while the battery will help to stablize voltage at 12VDC, the alternator puts out a higher voltage, and if your voltage rails are dropping to 12 volts, you're already overdrawing the alternator's capacities, and if your voltage rails sag to below 12 volts then you're also going beyond the abilities of the battery or batteries to stablize your voltages. Both of these symptoms will result in battery and alternator damage.
A capacitor only masks these symptoms, in much the same way as regulating voltage to your headlights so they won't dim as bass hits, when voltages can fluctuate between 14.4VDC and 12VDC.
When the motor is turned off, the battery then becomes your source of electricity.
When the battery is run down, and when the capacitor(s) is/are depleted, the alternator has to work even harder in order to supply current to the car, the audio system, and also to recharge the capacitor(s) (which deplete more quickly) than they recharge) as well as recharge the car's battery(ies).
If you plan to use the audio system for prolonged periods at high volumes with the car turned off (such as for SPL events) you'll want to use isolated deep cycle batteries dedicated to the audio system to avoid damage to the batteries, and damage to the speakers and equipment from clipping.
So by adding a capacitor to try taking the place of a high-output alternator, you are actually causing more work for your alternator, and causing even more damage to that stock alternator.

A capacitor does have it's uses, but it is not a magical fix for a lacking electrical system.

Another item I'd like to touch on is the more recent advent of the high capacity capacitors (25, 50, 100+ Farad capacitors) and so-called "BattCaps."
These types of capacitors have extremely high ESR values which makes them very bad choices for the uses mentioned above. They are usually carbon-film based capacitors in order to get such high values, as opposed to the much lower ESR electrolytic capacitors you tend to find in teh 20 volt 1Fd type cylinder style units.
End result is avoid anything like the 100Fd capacitors like a plague.


Copied and pasted from another source because its too late to write my own....
 

sylvaner01

New Member
thanks very much everybody, I think i might just downgrade my amp, any clues on how much i would get for that kenwood amp?
 

93DA/Mik

New Member
just check your electricle system w/o the stereo and with it and see how things work out.
A qualified installer would know what he was doing!
there are too many things that could cause problems that you have not touched on.
a CAP is just a band aide in most cases!
the bat is just meant to start your car and the alt. is the power source once it is running
 

sylvaner01

New Member
One option is to have a new alternator built which CAN handle the amp, I need a new one anyway as I believe my amp has already fried my old one.
 

killjoy

New Member
inteeegraaaaaa said:
A capacitor WILL:
-Act as a filter for AC ripple effect caused by the imperfect rectification of the AC current produced by an alternator, and rectified by a DC voltage regulator.
-Smooth the demand curve for current on the alternator, thus extending (theoretically at least) the alternator's lifespan, and, on a not so good note, this can also help to mask the symptoms of an insufficient alternator by smoothing these spikes that also cause the more obvious signs of a weak charging system, like dimming headlights when the bass hits.
-Reduce propagation delays in current supply for brief, spiked demands by the amplifier from the amplifier, and response to this by the electrical system. Amplifiers have to provide a very dynamic and quick response many times. A capacitor can assist in this if the rest of the charging system is up to par.
A capacitor will NOT:
-make your system magically sound 10 times better. Many people believe that a capacitor adds NO real benefit to an audio system, and this is why you never see before and after demonstrations, or factory capacitor company vehicles at car shows.
-Replace the need for a larger, high-output alternator and/or a deep-cycle battery or batteries.
If your electrical system is inadequate, the ONLY way to fix this, and again I repeat, the ONLY WAY to fix this, is to replace the alternator if your voltage rails are sagging to below 12 volts while the car is running. This is the SOLE source of electrical current for your car when the motor is running. The car's battery is in parallel with the alternator, and while the battery will help to stablize voltage at 12VDC, the alternator puts out a higher voltage, and if your voltage rails are dropping to 12 volts, you're already overdrawing the alternator's capacities, and if your voltage rails sag to below 12 volts then you're also going beyond the abilities of the battery or batteries to stablize your voltages. Both of these symptoms will result in battery and alternator damage.
A capacitor only masks these symptoms, in much the same way as regulating voltage to your headlights so they won't dim as bass hits, when voltages can fluctuate between 14.4VDC and 12VDC.
When the motor is turned off, the battery then becomes your source of electricity.
When the battery is run down, and when the capacitor(s) is/are depleted, the alternator has to work even harder in order to supply current to the car, the audio system, and also to recharge the capacitor(s) (which deplete more quickly) than they recharge) as well as recharge the car's battery(ies).
If you plan to use the audio system for prolonged periods at high volumes with the car turned off (such as for SPL events) you'll want to use isolated deep cycle batteries dedicated to the audio system to avoid damage to the batteries, and damage to the speakers and equipment from clipping.
So by adding a capacitor to try taking the place of a high-output alternator, you are actually causing more work for your alternator, and causing even more damage to that stock alternator.

A capacitor does have it's uses, but it is not a magical fix for a lacking electrical system.

Another item I'd like to touch on is the more recent advent of the high capacity capacitors (25, 50, 100+ Farad capacitors) and so-called "BattCaps."
These types of capacitors have extremely high ESR values which makes them very bad choices for the uses mentioned above. They are usually carbon-film based capacitors in order to get such high values, as opposed to the much lower ESR electrolytic capacitors you tend to find in teh 20 volt 1Fd type cylinder style units.
End result is avoid anything like the 100Fd capacitors like a plague.


Copied and pasted from another source because its too late to write my own....
Click to expand...

thank you, FINALLY someone who is speaking truth. CAPACITORS ARE USELESS. they are a marketing gimmick, please believe me they put more strain on your electrical system than good.

Upgrade your big 3 grounds in your engine bay instead. Cheap, and more helpful than a cap will ever be.

google it
 

DA93

New Member
what size power/ gorund cable are u using? the kenwood 8104 says 1000watts but its only 500rms so it really doesnt draw that much current, 60 amps at full draw, which i highly doubt it doing if the gains are set low. chek your ground connection to the vehicle, make sure it is clean and free of any paint as that does cause some resistance to ground. also make sure its tight, a loose ground is just as bad as having it on a painted surface.
 

Nilfesia

New Member
ClubIntegra.com - Acura Integra Forum - Reply to Topic

The gain is set prety low, we made precautions not to set it too high fully knowing what the amp was capable of. If I sold that amp and downgraded would it put less strain on the alternator? If I AM only powering a 200WRMS sub would the amp still require 1000W in order to work? or would it adjust accordingly. Cheers
Click to expand...
Your site www.clubintegra.com not correctly work in my safari browser
 
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