Questions on running nitrous setup

hieuamn

New Member
My Setup 96 LS Integra

B20B
Avid Race mounts
Competition Clutches stage 4 clutch
Fidanza 8 lb flywheel
no name header
no name short ram intake
Greddy Evo2 exhaust
Fidanza short shifter
ES shifter bushings
Godspeed aftermarket race radiator w/ slim fans
P28 chipped & flashed
LS tranny

Was wondering what other mods should I consider after picking up nitrous. Then which nitrous should I get? Leaning towards ZEX 75shot but dry or wet? I do plan to be installing it myself so which precautions should I consider? I have not yet got my motor tested for its health but of course I will before purchasing any more mods.


My 3 girls. On two steelies since one is being repaired.
 
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sugarfree135

matt
maybe upgrade the fuel pump and then run a wet shot, it will be a little safer and more powerful as it injects fuel and n2o. a dry shot would be sufficient as far as a decent hp gain. I would suggest a full throttle switch tho so you can make sure you don't lean out. maybe a reflash too that will add a bit more fuel at full throttle, anyways have fun man nitrous is fun :)
 

BigMac88

Fat guy in a little 'teg
A nitrous build is pretty similar to a turbo build. A forged bottom end is the safe route if you're spraying a lot. The weak point of the B20 is the sleeving of course. The best way to have a safe, reliable build is to get the car properly tuned. A 'one-size-fits-all' chip is one of the worst routes for that. I don't know if that's what you have or if you have a B20b map on the P28, but either way consider Hondata, Crome, or even an AEM EMS for tuning. It will literally save your engine.

As for wet or dry, it's really up to you. Research both and see which one has characteristics that you prefer/that work for your setup and goals.
 


hieuamn

New Member
Thanks some useful information. Its been awhile since I chipped my p28 but i think i flashed it with a LS map. And after researching some more I decided just to go with Zex dry kit. Since my max shot will only be 75. So my plans are to pick up the Zex kit + B&M FPR + New sparkplugs. Anything else? Not including all the goodies like purge kit, bottle heater etc....Do I need MSD 6AL?
 

BigMac88

Fat guy in a little 'teg
Probably don't need the MSD. A nice set of NGK iridiums and new wires should do the trick.

Yikes you're running a 1.8L map on a 2.0L motor? You're almost certainly running lean. Definitely shouldn't spray on that until it's tuned properly.

You should also get a wideband air/fuel ratio meter so you can make sure your AFR is always in a safe zone. And an EGT sensor for tuning.
 

phatintegra

Banned
U dont need to upgrade the fuel pump. U will need adjust. pressure regulater and fuel gauge. I would check ur bearring while ur at it. Wideband and oil gauge are your best freind.
 


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hieuamn

New Member
Is it possible for you to be more specific, I'm barely getting into motor work and slowly learning (as you can see by my mods). So from the posts I need to pick up wideband air/fuel meters. So how do I adjust down 3 degrees or so? Can I get a real list of suggested mods by brand and model? maybe throw in a little description(if not il just google it lol)

Talked to a friend. He said really all i need is the kit, meters, and new plugs. FPR is only when they tune it he said.
 

phatintegra

Banned
FPR is the Fuel Pressure Regulater like i mention above u will need a fuel gauge like a B&M that you can mount it on the fuel filter or fuel rail. I would check the block for any damage esp the rod bearings.
 

sugarfree135

matt
ok what the grammatically challenged guy is trying to say is get a rising rate fuel pressure regulator retard the timing and for some reason check your main bearings which who knows how you do that lol and for some reason he thinks you should get a fuel pressure gauge
 

BigMac88

Fat guy in a little 'teg
sugarfree135 said:
ok what the grammatically challenged guy is trying to say is get a rising rate fuel pressure regulator retard the timing and for some reason check your main bearings which who knows how you do that lol and for some reason he thinks you should get a fuel pressure gauge
Click to expand...
:rolf: Good answer :thumbs up

BTW you can check the main bearings by taking the oil pan off and removing the bottom of the rods (the part that hold them onto the main bearings) for any given rod/cylinder. Then you can take the main bearings out and look at them :thumbs up pretty useful but I agree, I don't know why that guy would suggest it. You either have a spun bearing or you don't; and when you do you'd know hahaha.
 

phatintegra

Banned
The plate that sits inside the oil pan where the oil pick up tube is call baffle plate or another word griddle plate that has to be removed before you can reach the crank, rods bolts.

Rather be safe then sorry. That's why I suggest it. I went threw one motor already and the second motor bearing #4 was almost on it's way out.
 
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IntegraLS-T

Member
I have been doing this stuff for some time now. There is some good info in this thread but its not all put together correctly.
A wet kit and a dry kit can make the same amount of power they just do it a little differently. Either one wont require you to get a different intake.
Since you seem to be new with the whole idea of nitrous, I suggest that you get a wet kit, and start out with the jets for a 50shot. Your nitrous jet size will depend on the kit you are running, and the fuel jet size will be based off of your fuel pressure. There is no reason to run a higher fuel pressure when using a wet kit for a basic setup. A walbro 255 fuel pump wouldn't be a bad idea, but isn't necessary. You should take your car to a tuner to have it tuned, there is no need for you to get a wide-band for yourself because you don't have a way to make changes to your tune if the wide-band reads something it shouldn't be. Your tuner will have a wide-band and should be able to setup your ecu to turn the nitrous on and off. Using the ecu to turn it on and off will also give the tuner the ability to pull timing out only when the nitrous is on leaving your all motor tune unaffected. I have never heard of checking your main bearings, which are not under the rod caps, they are under the main caps, if your motor isn't doing anything to make you think you have a bad bearing then no reason to tear into that. If you have any other questions or need clarification on what I'm trying to say let me know, Nitrous can be safe, just needs to be done correctly.
 
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