swap help please

Lerkz11

New Member
Hey yall, =D for months i died of frustration due to the fact that i never activated my account. searching through the forums for the answers i need has postponed my project but now my life is almost complete. All i need is a little help from the pro's.

So i went ahead and bought my first 1990 integra ls for $100 dollars and dumped about $600 into it in order to get it running decently (not great at all). After tireless thinking about what i should do with it i finally came to the conclusion that i should try and build a "poor mans type-r", or what i have come to believe is affordable and close enough to one. I bought a used b18a1 block considering the fact that the one in my teg is in really bad shape. My next step is to buy a b16a2 head off of a 2000 civic si. It is already tapped for the b18 and is running, i just have to apply the oil lines. Im buying it for $275 (it seems reasonable to me since it has 85K on it). Upon reading around the net, i came across a snag that people seem to have even though i haven't experienced it myself and it has to do with the vtec distributor, wiring harness, and ecu compatibility. Ive hear a lot of different things ranging from splicing wires to cutting plugs to replacing harnesses and ecu's. im not very sure on how to go about this considering that this is the firs integra i have ever owned let alone the first honda/acura.

basically i want to know if the b18a1/b16a2 is worth it and if so how do i communicate the obd0 ecu with the obd2 head. i know i have to find a way to control the vtec but i dont know how its done. Any option is an option for me so im open to all suggestions. if anyone can help, please do.

thank you =D
 

DumaDa9

New Member
i wouldnt suggest building a lsvtec motor unless you're experienced. You'll need alot more than just a vtec head

-ls vtec conversion kit
-arp headstuds
-arp rod bolts
-You'll want to convert to obd1 so you can tune it
-obd1 vtec ecu
-ecu jumper harness
-obd1 dizzy
-dizzy jumper harness
-i would highly suggest getting a shorter geared transmission as well, the LS is going to hold you back alot
 

Lerkz11

New Member
Thanks for posting duma.
well what i had in mind but havent really been able to discuss much with anyone was to go ahead and get the obd1 ecu and a vtec wiring harness. im not experienced in building an ls vtec but the motor in my car right now is running and im building this one on the side. its a project for me that i have been looking forward to for a long time and u have been more than helpful. if there is any more information that you care to give i am willing to listen.

also what are the consequences of not replacing the head studs and rod bolts???
 
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DumaDa9

New Member
no problem at all, always good to point people in the right direction. Other people build lsvtec motors the wrong way or incorrectly which is what gives it a bad name, do it right and it'll last:thumbs up
 

Tam4511

CI BOOST FIEND
i wouldnt suggest building a lsvtec motor unless you're experienced. You'll need alot more than just a vtec head

-ls vtec conversion kit
-arp headstuds
-arp rod bolts
-You'll want to convert to obd1 so you can tune it
-obd1 vtec ecu
-ecu jumper harness
-obd1 dizzy
-dizzy jumper harness
-i would highly suggest getting a shorter geared transmission as well, the LS is going to hold you back alot
+forged/balanced rods, recommend a bore and or sleeve and forged pistons
you have to up grade the block to get it to run at the rpm's the head is capable of.
 


Lerkz11

New Member
i have another question, is there an alternative to arp studs and bolts that i can use without compromising too much quality?
 

DumaDa9

New Member
+forged/balanced rods, recommend a bore and or sleeve and forged pistons
you have to up grade the block to get it to run at the rpm's the head is capable of.
the rod bolts allow the block the be revved to the proper rpms along with the head, performance would be alot better with boring and sleeving your block and installing forged pistons, but they're not necessary, the rod bolts are good enough
i have another question, is there an alternative to arp studs and bolts that i can use without compromising too much quality?
i would suggest arp studs no matter what, like i said, you can build an lsvtec without aftermarket rod bolts, its not recommended, my girlfriends brother has a bone stock internal lsvtec set up, arp headstuds only, and his motor has been raced and daily driven with no problems reliably. ARP rod bolts would probably be the cheapest of all options
 
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