Ugh, "N00b" questions.

[mirrorimg]

My main concern was the exhaust. So many exhausts net 1-3 hp. I would hope there exists atleast ONE that nets 8-10. Intakes I have found afew resources. Seems the choices in that dept would be AEM or a Comptech ice box.

As far as team-integra, I was trying to keep it just here to help out what SEEMS to be a smaller site which MUCH more welcoming members & mature compared to other forums.

I promote T-I because it is a great source for articles and how-to's. I read over the threads, but rarely post on the forum. It certainly has a different member culture than this forum

They have a how-to on a DIY icebox using PVC given you have the OEM intake. You can further upgrade (looks and restriction by getting rid of the accordian style intake arm) by using a short ram intake tube to run into the intake box. DIY icebox intake

ugh, really? Or only after a certain height?

Jim is referring to the likelihood of your bolts being seized where the rear struts bolt to the LCA. Its a common issue on integras when people go to swap out the suspension, and the bolts are not very cheap.

Secondly, something I never understood. OBDI Vs OBDII. Is that even important?

Thanks I did that and found a couple of good links. The header and exhaust stilll seem vaguest to me. Otherwise, this was a GREAT help/idea.

OBD1= 1 O2 sensor
CEL's not readable by code scanners, you must jump the plug and watch the CEL light blink.

OBD2= 2 O2 sensor
obdII scanner readable for check engine lights

Quote taken from hondatuningmagazine.com's forums (quick google search)

OBD I is easier to tune due to the lack of standardization in the way the chipsets were designed and the less restrictive emmisions requirements for cars 1995 and earlier. OBD II cars are usually tuned using a piggyback system such as the apexi vafc which fools your ecu into thinking that the information coming back from your engine is different than it really is. Most tuners prefer to work on OBD I ecu's, but depending on where you live is whether or not it is an option for you to switch to an older ecu than the one that comes stock on your vehicle.

Everyone has there preferences, but the Hytech header (and replicas) seem to have some good performance results. For the exhaust, many people will choose the better sounding exhaust over a 1-2 HP difference. I know I would rather have a quiter exhaust than a rediculous sounding one for 2 extra HP. You may want to look into Mugen Twinloop exhausts (and replica's too).

Good luck, hope we can help you out as much as possible

 

[NeCo TonKa]

I promote T-I because it is a great source for articles and how-to's. I read over the threads, but rarely post on the forum. It certainly has a different member culture than this forum

They have a how-to on a DIY icebox using PVC given you have the OEM intake. You can further upgrade (looks and restriction by getting rid of the accordian style intake arm) by using a short ram intake tube to run into the intake box. DIY icebox intake



Jim is referring to the likelihood of your bolts being seized where the rear struts bolt to the LCA. Its a common issue on integras when people go to swap out the suspension, and the bolts are not very cheap.



OBD1= 1 O2 sensor
CEL's not readable by code scanners, you must jump the plug and watch the CEL light blink.

OBD2= 2 O2 sensor
obdII scanner readable for check engine lights

Quote taken from hondatuningmagazine.com's forums (quick google search)


Everyone has there preferences, but the Hytech header (and replicas) seem to have some good performance results. For the exhaust, many people will choose the better sounding exhaust over a 1-2 HP difference. I know I would rather have a quiter exhaust than a rediculous sounding one for 2 extra HP. You may want to look into Mugen Twinloop exhausts (and replica's too).

Good luck, hope we can help you out as much as possible

Perfect explanation on the OBD1 & 2. I did peak over at TI.net. I found a veryyyyyy detailed write up about exhaust sizes and such. One stating that the header outlet should match the exhaust size and that the recommended exhaust size was 2.25. How do you feel about the accuracy of that statement? Based soley on an N/A platform? Keeping in mind that I will not be doing extensive engine work for probably another2 years aside from direct bolt ons.

Hytech header huh? After doing some research on it seems like it is the cream of the crop. You have guys have been ridiculously helpful. Thanks so much.

As far as exhaust, I see alot of people have an ITR stock exhaust on their GSR. Are there any real advantages?

Skunk2 claims 8.7 whp for their exhaust. Any thoughts.

I also noticed you made "comptech" in bold on the quote of my message. Was that suggesting it over AEM?

So, It seems from all your opinions and info on this site. The Hytech header is the way to go and comptech ice box is appropiate.

Exhaust I guess Ill be doing some more reading.

 

[NeCo TonKa]

Everyone has there preferences, but the Hytech header (and replicas) seem to have some good performance results. For the exhaust, many people will choose the better sounding exhaust over a 1-2 HP difference. I know I would rather have a quiter exhaust than a rediculous sounding one for 2 extra HP.

I wanted to add, I agree. I HATE loud exhausts. I would sacrifice some power for a quiet exhaust with a nice tone. I further researched Skunk2 and saw that it is loud as hell. So I think I will have to stray away from it period.

 

[Samurai_Blue]

I wanted to add, I agree. I HATE loud exhausts. I would sacrifice some power for a quiet exhaust with a nice tone. I further researched Skunk2 and saw that it is loud as hell. So I think I will have to stray away from it period.

greddy sp2 and apexi world sport 2 or apexi nuior are the quietest exhausts. skunk2 only makes race products

 

[cyclotegra]

Welcome!! This forum by far is the best overall that I have come across, the members are super nice and helpful!! GL on your build, post pics when you get it....:thumbs up

 

[NeCo TonKa]

Welcome!! This forum by far is the best overall that I have come across, the members are super nice and helpful!! GL on your build, post pics when you get it....:thumbs up

Yes. So its been great. I have to thank mirrormgd or w/e lol for his insight. After countless hours. Literally hours of reading in the last 2 days I think I have decided to go with (regardless of price) the hytech full system. I definitely would try to get the replicas first since I found the replica header on option jdm for 499.99.

Thanks guys!! Really!

 

[mirrorimg]

Im not sure, but I think the hytech is a race exhaust, which means it will delete the stock cat and bolt directly to the catback. You may want to look into this incase you have emissions testing in your area. You do not want to exceed 2.5" for your exhaust on stock N/A. 2.25 and 2.36 are the more appropriate sizes for stock motors. You only need to go larger if you are introducing more air and need to exacuate it faster, (I.E. turbo charger, supercharger, built motor with aggressive cams/ported head/ etc)

I dont suggest the comptech over the aem, I was just bolding it to refer to it in my following statement.

 

[NeCo TonKa]

Im not sure, but I think the hytech is a race exhaust, which means it will delete the stock cat and bolt directly to the catback. You may want to look into this incase you have emissions testing in your area. You do not want to exceed 2.5" for your exhaust on stock N/A. 2.25 and 2.36 are the more appropriate sizes for stock motors. You only need to go larger if you are introducing more air and need to exacuate it faster, (I.E. turbo charger, supercharger, built motor with aggressive cams/ported head/ etc)

I dont suggest the comptech over the aem, I was just bolding it to refer to it in my following statement.

Emissions testing yes but that wouldnt be a problem. I did see that it deletes that car but that is ok. I also read despite all of that, it still is quiet.

Lastly, I thought 2.5 may be a bit big but it seems to be the recommended size if you pair the hytech parts.

 

[red98teg]

just so you know... yes the hytech header is the best.... but 1 good luck finding one, and 2 they cost about 1300 bucks cause they are all hand made... now you can usually find a replica for anywhere from 250-500 bucks and maybe net 1-2 less WHP

 

[Samurai_Blue]

hytech is full race. if you want to keep your o2 you need to have a non race header

 

[NeCo TonKa]

just so you know... yes the hytech header is the best.... but 1 good luck finding one, and 2 they cost about 1300 bucks cause they are all hand made... now you can usually find a replica for anywhere from 250-500 bucks and maybe net 1-2 less WHP

I spoke directly to the gentleman at hytech directly. So buying one would be fine except the ridiculous wait. I found a replica at for 499.99 on option jdm.

hytech is full race. if you want to keep your o2 you need to have a non race header

I wasnt necessarily worrying about that. But thanks for the heads up. It would just be a CEL correct? Which I have seen people "fool" with ebay o2 simulators when using a race header.