New PS Belt = Bad Alternator?

[SubLiminate]

Ok, so I just put a new alternator in the car ('88 LS Gold Special Edition) and it worked fine for about a month. I then replaced the power steering belt, and now it's acting like the alternator is going bad - stereo not working right, lights dimming, not charging the battery, etc. All the symptoms are typical of a bad alternator - starts with some minor thing and just gets worse over a couple hours until the battery dies. The battery will hold a charge, and the alternator seems to be putting out just enough to push the fuel injectors. Even the clock dims to nothing when the brake lights come on. But it hasn't died on me yet. Just requires a jump every time and nothing electrical works. When the alternator died before, the car quit once the battery was dead, but this time it seems like the alternator is still putting out just enough to keep the car running. That is why I question if the alternator is truly bad, or if I did something wrong putting on the new PS belt.

This started when I put the new PS belt on, and as you guys know, the PS belt is on the crank shaft pulley with the alternator belt. Is it possible that the PS belt is too tight or loose or something? Doesn't really make sense to me. It seems like a new belt, even if adjusted wrong, wouldn't make any difference on that pulley. Thank you!!!! To anyone who can help.

 

[SpooledupRacing]

should not make a difference.. I would check the tension on the alt belt also check grounds and pull the alt and have it tested if the belt is ok..

should be a warranty.. i know alternators will go from time to time even when new (reman)

 

[SubLiminate]

Thanks, man. The belt does look a little loose, and there is some grease or something on it (PS fluid from working on that?) but it doesn't appear to be slipping. I'm just dreading taking the alt out unless I have to. Fortunately, I did find that if you take the oil filter off, you can get the alt out without taking off the axle, which is Honda's method of choice for changing the alt in that car.... And it is a reman alt, but it has a limited lifetime warranty, and 90 days full. It's only been 40 days or so since I put it in.

I think I am going to try taking the PS belt back off, and just see what happens when I run it for a minute. Much easier then pulling the alt, even though less likely to solve the problem. (Even if it doesn't solve the problem, it would make it slightly easier to get to the belt tensioning bolts on the alt to have that belt gone) That doesn't fix it and I'm just going to swap the alt and stop being lazy. Thanks again, Spooled.

 

[dc2GS-R]

If you bought a remanufactured alternator from the auto parts store, then it's likely the culprit. They are complete pieces of shit and have a tendency to fail fairly quickly.

The good news is, they have lifetime warranties and will replace them for free.

The bad news is, they are such pieces of crap that I went through 7 reman. alternators in 2 years before I ended up with one that worked for more than 3 months.

Just test it with a voltmeter and you'll know what to do.

 

[SubLiminate]

Thanks, dc2. So, is there a brand or something you would recommend that would hold up longer? I'm working out of a regular garage, with jack stands and generally pieced together tools. Changing the alt is a pain in the ass. it's worth a few bucks to get one that will hold up.

Update: Supposedly one can test an alt by removing the neg terminal on the battery while running - car shuts off, alt is no good, right? I did that and the car ran. It actually ran better, for a minute or two, then died. I was beginning to wonder if the battery was the problem until it died with the battery disconnected. But why did it keep running - and the sub's (2 JBL 12") come on for the first time since the problems began? It was perfect for 2 mins, then it just died. I am now really confused.....

 

[dc2GS-R]

Thanks, dc2. So, is there a brand or something you would recommend that would hold up longer? I'm working out of a regular garage, with jack stands and generally pieced together tools. Changing the alt is a pain in the ass. it's worth a few bucks to get one that will hold up.

Update: Supposedly one can test an alt by removing the neg terminal on the battery while running - car shuts off, alt is no good, right? I did that and the car ran. It actually ran better, for a minute or two, then died. I was beginning to wonder if the battery was the problem until it died with the battery disconnected. But why did it keep running - and the sub's (2 JBL 12") come on for the first time since the problems began? It was perfect for 2 mins, then it just died. I am now really confused.....

Well, the only way to get a little more reassurance is to buy a brand new one or have one made (which will be pricey). Even dealerships sell remanufactured units and they only have a 6 month warranty. At one point I got so irritated with alternators crapping out that I dropped $375 on one from a dealership with a 6 month warranty...and it crapped out 7 months later.

Disconnecting the battery while the car is running is not a valid test and not a very good idea. Just get a simple voltmeter. They can be had for cheap. Test it with the car off then test it again with the car running. Off it should be around 12.5v and around 14.5v running.

 

[heykosal]

The bad news is, they are such pieces of crap that I went through 7 reman. alternators in 2 years before I ended up with one that worked for more than 3 months.

At one point I got so irritated with alternators crapping out that I dropped $375 on one from a dealership with a 6 month warranty...and it crapped out 7 months later.

wow....

i never knew alternators were such a problem/hassle.

 

[SubLiminate]

Yup, clearly they are. This isn't the first thread I've seen with similar stories. I was just hoping not be one of them, but it looks like I'm in alternator hell with everyone else. Thanks, dc2, that'll be the project for tomorrow.

 

[jdmjim]

If you bought a remanufactured alternator from the auto parts store, then it's likely the culprit. They are complete pieces of shit and have a tendency to fail fairly quickly.

The good news is, they have lifetime warranties and will replace them for free.

The bad news is, they are such pieces of crap that I went through 7 reman. alternators in 2 years before I ended up with one that worked for more than 3 months.

Just test it with a voltmeter and you'll know what to do.

X1253r45463646. i put like 8 on this guys nissan, i was getting pretty good at changing them. down to 6 min. FTL, the quality seems to be getting a little better but reman sucks. i know honda says to pull the axel, i find it easier to pull the master cylinder myself.

 

[SubLiminate]

Maybe, but I just do an oil change at the same time, and keep the oil filter off to change out the alt. Probably, a little slower then pulling the master cylinder, but I'm not a pro at this and seems like less potential to screw up that way.