No power, No start

NYDA9boy

Honda Integra DA9
Wat up CI people i have a 1990 DA, i just did a b18b1 swap in it.I I have everything hooked up right, but as far as the ground wireing idk, anyway i have no power at all in my car, I bought a current light tester and in the engine bay i tested my fuses,grounds,battery, and current in the motor. I bought a new battery fuse but i still get no power in the interior. I spent weeks tryn to figure out wat it is and im fed up with the problem i wanna just take it to a shop and let them figure it out but wnt to b a tru tunner, save money and do it myself. Does anybody kno wat the problem is? Please Help
 

jdmjim

nothing from nowhere
check all your main fuses. im not shure if DAs have fuse links but check for those too.
 
Check the simple shit first. The other day my DB1 wouldnt start, so I got to looking around, the starter power wire was loose. Could be something easy as that.
 

GreenEyeAnnie

New Member
Coil

You might want to check the coil. My husband had a Honda and he had the same problem and he even went to links of changing the engine and found out it was a $50 coil. It's a guess.:)
 


gotgohan

Apprentice Mechanic
Okay well I am not saying your a moron but I will list everything I would do if this happend to me.
First step I would take would take off the battery terminals and connect them to another cars battery. Just unplug those terminals too otherwise it will fry battery. Use jumper cables. If still no go
Second step to seeing the problem. As you said you checked every fuse... TRY EVERY FUSE the interior and exterior.
Third Step I would take that test light and follow both the negative and positive cables to wherever they lead, engine and starter and so fourth and keep seeing if your tester keeps lighting up as you get to each point.
Fourth Step would be to see if your ignition switch is faulty.
If you even bothered to try these then ask for more help
 

NYDA9boy

Honda Integra DA9
is a 95 LS b18b1 motor obd0 or obd1 if its obd1 wat do i have 2 change
 


amaestre32

New Member
Okay well I am not saying your a moron but I will list everything I would do if this happend to me.
First step I would take would take off the battery terminals and connect them to another cars battery. Just unplug those terminals too otherwise it will fry battery. Use jumper cables. If still no go
Second step to seeing the problem. As you said you checked every fuse... TRY EVERY FUSE the interior and exterior.
Third Step I would take that test light and follow both the negative and positive cables to wherever they lead, engine and starter and so fourth and keep seeing if your tester keeps lighting up as you get to each point.
Fourth Step would be to see if your ignition switch is faulty.
If you even bothered to try these then ask for more help
lol x2 do these things!
 

gotgohan

Apprentice Mechanic
i don't think you need to worry about the OBD if the car isn't getting power period...

If I am correct which is 50/50 chacne I am or not. It is a celenoid that gives power... not the ecu
 

evilminion88

I ate the bones
First of all throw that test light away. It has a high internal impedence and can actually cause more problems like blow more fuses due to its extra resistance to any circuit. Test lights get you no where. Get a DMM (Digital Multi Meter or simplty volt meter) and the wiring schematis to your integra. Follow every path on the diagrams and wiring maps. Just remember to set the volt meter to read voltage and test in parallel to any compenet your testing on a hot circuit(with power on). To test the Amps of any component, hook up DMM in series to component on a dead circuit(power off). Electrical problems on cars can be a pain in the ass and require alot of patience. Components that have shorted to ground or power, or have an open circuit can be causing the problem and may be very hard to find. Check every resistor, every relay, and every fuse. If your wiring harnesses are old they could be coroded or rusted causing high resistance or opens in the circuit.
 

evilminion88

I ate the bones
O and to test a circuit or components resistances, set DMM to Ohms and wire it in parrellel. All readings you get from your DMM should be compared to OEM specs.
 
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