acclude's 96 RS Build

guterz

New Member
I love it when people rebuild cars that would of otherwise been trashed at a junk yard. This is an awesome build thread and definately looking forward to seeing the finished project!!!
 

acclude

cheap bastard
Looking good broo!!!!

I worked on that wiring harness, and man let me tell you i cant do it man this is my second set for an engine harness i might just get NHswaps to do it or buy one from Rywire
Aw that sucks. I give you credit for trying though! Most people wouldn't have even attempted it.

Looking good! Can't wait to see it running. Looks like the teg has come a long way man, great job!
Thanks! It'll be running very soon!

coming along nicely looking good
Thanks!

I love it when people rebuild cars that would of otherwise been trashed at a junk yard. This is an awesome build thread and definately looking forward to seeing the finished project!!!
It's funny you said that! My friend was about to pull the motor and haul the car off to the scrap yard. I happed to call him and ask him about this car like 2 weeks before it was going to get hauled away. I've had to put a lot of work into it, but it's starting to turn out nicely and seems to be worth it.



Here's a list of stuff I purchased and I'm waiting to come in or waiting to be installed:

x-drilled & slotted rear rotors
800CCA Optima Redtop battery
Thermal IM gasket
Thermal TB gasket
Complete motor gasket set
OBD1 GSR distributor
MSD External coil dist. cap
Fittings for the LS/VTEC oil line


And I made a list of everything I have left to purchase and it's down to the usual small dollar items.

IM bolts - purchasing from Acura
Throttle cable brackets - purchasing from Acura
OBD1 Dist. harness - purchasing from junkyard
D. Side rear brake caliper - purchasing from junkyard
Moates Burn2 - purchasing from Moates
USB to Serial cable - purchasing from Moates


The rest I'm getting local at auto stores around me:

Oil for engine and trans
coolant
brake fluid
misc. bulbs
gas can and gas
fuel filter
breather filters
header paint
brake caliper paint
spark plugs

I figure about $350 or less and this will be running and driving!
 

acclude

cheap bastard
Well I didn't get a whole lot done this weekend, but what I did get done took a while.

I finally got the brakes straight.

The rotors up front were brand new Brembo x-drilled slotted but had a decent layer of rust from sitting unused for so many years. I sanded them BY HAND for hours to get that rust off and they turned out pretty good. Here's a comparison pic:



you can see the cross-hatch marks from sanding so it should help the pads break in evenly.

Also, replaced the calipers and spent some time cleaning, prepping and painting them with some high-temp caliper paint. Here they are on the car:

Front


Rear


I'm retarded cause I completely forgot to order rear brake pads. I will be ordering some Hawks to match the front and should have them on in a week or so.


Is this power inside the car?



TADA!




And finally, I got my OBD1 GSR dizzy in:



So I went ahead and converted the dizzy harness in the car to OBD1. Of course the finished product looks factory but this is a "in the process pic":




And here's just a random pic for no reason at all. I thought it was cool though. This is the first time in years that the windows and sunroof have been opened on this thing A definite sign of progress :)

 
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patrick4588

Integra God
relocated the battery to the back? you know batteries give off all kinds of chemicals. you need to use a sealed box with tubes routed out of the car.
 


FreshGSR

JDM Enthusiast
to tell you the truth... i think most of everyones' problem is that they don't have A) garage and B) a lift

that's the 2 main problems right there.

OR you have a garage, but no lift.

If you are in that kind of a predicament, buy a used lift.

so much easier said than done, isn't it?
 

FreshGSR

JDM Enthusiast
Oh... my bad... Yes this is a very well-done project and looks like it's coming around nicely.

My buddy relocated his battery to the rear as well in his 93 RX-7. No problems yet, but then again, he hasn't drove it daily. I'll let you know if he passes out from the chemicals coming from the battery. rofl. d=^D
 

acclude

cheap bastard
relocated the battery to the back? you know batteries give off all kinds of chemicals. you need to use a sealed box with tubes routed out of the car.
I've done some research and since the Optima's are SEALED GEL batteries, they do not give off any kind of fumes which is one of the reasons I bought it. No sealed boxes or vent tubes for me :)

to tell you the truth... i think most of everyones' problem is that they don't have A) garage and B) a lift

that's the 2 main problems right there.

OR you have a garage, but no lift.

If you are in that kind of a predicament, buy a used lift.

so much easier said than done, isn't it?
yes, but I'm really good at ghetto-rigging anything I have to and making do with what is available

Oh... my bad... Yes this is a very well-done project and looks like it's coming around nicely.
Thank you! I'm hoping to fire it up sometime next week and finally take it for a long awaited drive ;)



Also, no one has said anything yet about the rotors. I don't know if you all didn't notice or don't care, but they are kinda backwards. The slots should be going with the direction of rotation, not against it. I put them on this way just thining it might give a little more agressive braking, but then again it may not do anything. I might put them on "the right way" before I take it for it's first drive. Still undecided.

I keep getting parts in gradually. ALMOST have everything I need. Hoping for later next week to start the motor :) I'm starting to get excited!
 


acclude

cheap bastard
Thanks!


AAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm so fucking pissed right now!

SO all of my parts came in today and I was hoping to have the motor 100% assembled and ready to go. I get the headgasket on, put the head on and start torquing them down. I started at like 25 lbs/ft and all 10 head studs did ok. Bumped it up to 50 lbs/ft and one of the head studs came out completely! Apparnetly the threads were stripped and I didn't find it out until I went to torque the head down. There are absolutely no threads left on that one bolt hole. I don't know if the guy I got the block from knew it and just didn't tell me or if he didn't know, but that doesn't really matter right now.

So needless to say I didn't get the motor assembled. I need to add some threads to the block before I can get the damn head on and assemble the motor. This is putting a huge damper on the progress cause I really can't do too much else until I get this straight first. I'm probably going to TIG wled some metal in there and re-tap and thread it, but I'm open to other ideas if you have any that can be done easier/cheaper.

I still hope to have it done in a week or so, but that may not happen now. DAMN I'M PISSED!!!!!
 

BigMac88

Fat guy in a little 'teg
Not sure how this would fare but....: Could you tap it out to a bigger thread size, then find the ratio of size difference of the hole/bolt and up your torque on that bolt so it is even with the rest of your bolts?
 

acclude

cheap bastard
Yeah I get what you're saying. I have ARP head studs though and want to keep them all the same. I think I'm going to try to tap and rethread and use the helix coil. If that doesn't work I will probably fire up the welder and do it that way. We'll see. Of course I'll update this thread when it gets fixed.
 

BigMac88

Fat guy in a little 'teg
Ahhh... yeah good point I didn't factor that into consideration lol. Yeah definitely keep us updated, because this is probably going to happen to someone else in the future and it will be nice to see a documented fix to this problem.

GL man
 

acclude

cheap bastard
Well, I'm kinda at a stopping point with the project until the thread tapping kit comes in. So I went ahead and finished the brakes/sus/and everything underneath for now and got her back down on the ground. Of course I'm gonna have to raise her back up to fit the header on there but whatever. I just wanted to see what she looks like on the ground again since it's been so long.













She's definitely dropped! Rolled the fenders to fit the 235 series tires. It should drop another 1/2" to 1" or so once the engine bay is fully assembled and it settles a little more. Hopefully the kit comes in early this week so I can finally finish her off. I want to be driving this beast by next weekend!!!!
 

acclude

cheap bastard
and some more.....


















oh yeah, got the header looking brand new again:







and yeah, all the other work I did wasn't worth taking pictures of. I'm kinda stuck until the tap and helicoil kit comes in :(
 

Sammich

Active Member
not feeling those wheels or lip...but that lip..is that the real mugen? or another replica style? cuz the one i had for my DC didnt come up that far
 
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