The Start of my tear down and rebuild

[jsleeper81]

yeah, no kidding the engine and engine bay the guy I bought it from told me he put a newly rebuilt engine with a vtec conversion.
When I pull everything out I noticed that one of the valve cover end caps ws not put on.
So on the transmission side it leaked oil every where.
I think that he did not take care of this car so now I am dealing with his mistakes but that is okey she will be a beaut. when I am done with everything.
that is of coarse I don't keep finding new stuff to do which I think we always do.
now here is one question I notice when pulling everything apart that the distributor did not look as if it would belong on this engine the adjustment bolt was missing and distributor was pushed all the way down and tightened.
on a vtec swap what dizzy is recomended B16, B18 .

 

[jsleeper81]

Hey guys,
sorry no new pics yet my battery in my camera was dead.
I got my valve cover stripped down today cleaned off and sanded smooth.
As I was doing this I was waiting for the paint thinner to settle and I was looking at my intake and remembered that when the motor was all together that the intake was just lying on top of the transmission no type of bracket at all which in turn caused the rubber boot to tear.
I am not planning on buy a new intake tube just new filter, clamps and would like to find a bracket to hold it up but have not seen one any where could I make one I have a welder and all just don't have a clue as of where to bolt it to or weld a bracket on the intake or if someone else has a better opinion please shoot it to me.
I don't want my intake just laying there not hooked up correctly.

 

[jsleeper81]

Okey guys,
just got the information back on what actually happened to it it was a spun bearing and luckily this happened.
When they pulled it apart they notice that the key was not put on the crank when this motor was done from who ever I bought this from.
As well the key in one of the cams was not put in and now there is a huge gash in the corner of the cam so now I know I at least need new cam and crank.
needles to say my wife was pissed that we got ripped off and told me to go ahead and fix it if all of that need replace then put the best I can afford in there.
So here we go this is what I am deciding I have searched around on here and put together the best I can afford right now let me know any pro's or con's any advice along the way.

Bottom End:
New Factory Crank:
New Factory Rod:
Arp Rod Bolts:
RS Race Spec PR3 82 mm. : I found these at www.trackspeedracing.com for 175.00 on sale hopefully these are good can't afford those 500.00 pistons

Valve Train:
Skunk 2 Pro series 2+ or Pro Series 3+ : Unsure which would be good with out any problem advice please
Skunk 2 Pro Series Dual Valve Springs
Skunk 2 Titanium Retainers
Skunk 2 intake and exhaust Valves ( High )
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears:
on all of the Parts are for a 94 -01 integra with vtec I have the pr3-3 head before I purchase this stuff will the B18c1/ b18c5 Cams,Valves,Springs,Retainers etc. fit on my head
All of these parts I found at www.andysautosport.com I could not find the car selection for the year model head mine was so I went with the integra Parts I was told that all b-series Head Components are interchangable except for the intake mani. now is this true or false.
This is all I have for now and will post pictures as soon as I start getting some parts in.
any advice on stuff to add/change is heard and appretiated

 

[Aussie]

If your working with an ls bottom end scrap all that skunk 2 stuff you have. Get a cheaper valvtrain, skunk 2 is overpriced. I would go with supertech, they make a good valvetrain. For cams I would go brian crower or something along those lines, you could also just go with a full brain crower valvetrain. Your not going to have a high rev limit so you'll want something that makes power down below.

If your on stock sleeves I wouldn't go to 82mm either, your just asking for trouble, go with a .25mm overbore and that's it. You won't gain a noticeable amount of power from that extra mm.

And like da6 mentioned, cover your damn head up, and don't lay shit on it. You drop the littlest thing in an oil port or something and your fucked.

 

[jsleeper81]

Yeah I covered the head but now it is torn all down to pieces at the moment.
so do a full brian crower Cams and supertech valve train will my power gains be noticed compared to the factory pr3 head? Which Stage would you recomend for noticed power gain.
and on the valves which size would work standard size or bigger on exhaust and intake?
and the shop that's doing the work told me he has to at least go .20 over so 81.5 will be good I will still be running stock sleeves.
also what piston would you recomend or are the ones I have listed be a good starting point I'm not looking to make masive gains just a bit more noticable I am planning to raise compresion.
This is also leads to would stock rods be good for this set up is it necesary to shot pin them as well?
I will be using arp rob bolts on these.
I am also curious I have an aem fuel rail that came with the car plain to keep am I good on keeping the factory Injectors with the crower Set up.
and as far as the crank I can't aford the one I want so have to buy factory for now and am planning to have balanced not lightened though unless it is recomended.
Thanks for jumping in for the help.

 

[Aussie]

Have your crank balanced, get the block line honed, get the same spec bearings all the way through. Your stock rods will be fine.
You shouldn't need to go .20 over. I would go with RS Machine pistons if your looking for cheap. Just make sure you weigh each piston and if they are different weights take a little off the inside so they are balanced.
I would go ahead and get a piston that will net you at least 11.5:1 compression. A stock crank is fine. I wouldn't lighten it unless whoever knows what they are doing. Honestly most shops don't even know how to balance one properly. You will need new injectors, H22 ones are fine if your on a budget.

 

[rob1570]

wow looks like a lot of hours of work lol but good luck with it

 

[jsleeper81]

Have your crank balanced, get the block line honed, get the same spec bearings all the way through. Your stock rods will be fine.
You shouldn't need to go .20 over. I would go with RS Machine pistons if your looking for cheap. Just make sure you weigh each piston and if they are different weights take a little off the inside so they are balanced.
I would go ahead and get a piston that will net you at least 11.5:1 compression. A stock crank is fine. I wouldn't lighten it unless whoever knows what they are doing. Honestly most shops don't even know how to balance one properly. You will need new injectors, H22 ones are fine if your on a budget.

I say a slight budget wife told me to do what I want to it just do it right.
okey so on the pistons which would give me an 11.5.1 I was thinking pr30 but is there another one that give better compression.
And I don't plan on lithtening the crank but the company doing this is well know down here at least for vw Racing and from my know those cars require alot of balancing to do what they do and he specializes in these and imports so hopefully he knows what he is doing lol. if not I guess I'll find someone else to balance.
He normally won't balance unless he has all the rods, bearings , pistons and crank
also now I have heard of getting a line hone but am unsure of what it actually is.
What does this actually do for it ?
on the injectors if I end up buying from company which size is recomended and is it a good idea to ad a regulator.

 

[Aussie]

I already said to go with RS Machine's pistons, call them and they'll get you the right size for the compression your looking for. The machine shop will know what a line hone is, they make sure all your mains are the same size. If your on a budget I already said to get some stock H22 injectors.

 

[jsleeper81]

I already said to go with RS Machine's pistons, call them and they'll get you the right size for the compression your looking for. The machine shop will know what a line hone is, they make sure all your mains are the same size. If your on a budget I already said to get some stock H22 injectors.

Alright I Was just making sure that the RS Machines where good to use.
I'm leaving now to go pick up the crank So I can go buy a new one sine they want a core charge.

 

[Aussie]

Why are you going to buy a new crank and where are you getting one from? A new honda crank will cost around 800 dollars.

 

[jsleeper81]

Why are you going to buy a new crank and where are you getting one from? A new honda crank will cost around 800 dollars.

I Was going to get a Remanufactured Oem Replacement from Oreilly's and when I was on my way to the machine shop my wife asked me if I was sure thats what I wanted to do and after thinking of problems I have had with most of there parts as well as autozone I decided not to so instead I ordered the pistons today instead.
I am looking at three cranks I am interested in but was going to get your input first

First one: Just not sure which one out of the three choices and the pistons I'm going with
http://www.ericksracing.com/id201.html
Seond one: A little leary about getting this one is it is for a b18a and mine is b18b so don't think this will work and its a little priced compared to the first ones
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Acura/Integra/Engine/Crankshafts
Third one: This one seems good But I'm leaning more toward the first ones just unsure which stroke I should get any thoughts or oppinions on these Aussie
http://www.trackspeedracing.com/site/788637/product/SCT-4-HONDA

I figured I'm going to do it do it all out and right so wanted a good Crank and am now considering Sleeving it probably not needing but better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it ( I think this termonology will work lol ).
I am Still Debating Factory Rods or not The machine shop said I should be good with factory but they also said it never hurts to go better.
Unless you think that a Remanufatured Crank would be fine for now since I'm not looking for big gains.
trust me I like the price of the remanufatured compared to the new ones and in my pocket right now it more affordable

 

[jsleeper81]

Sorry Aussie did'nt see that you aske why I'm buying one the # 3 bearing spun and ground it down to much to be Repaire which is probably my fault cause I had to get to work or Canned lol of coarse does not matter now already happened lol.
One of the cams did not have the key put in and cause a huge gash in the cam I'll get a picture of the cam when I get it back.
I guess it's a good thing I get to go better right and maybe get a little more compression out of it.

 

[Aussie]

Don't get any of that remanufactured bull shit. Go to a junk yard and get an oem crank, pull a part, where ever and then get it polished. Those remanufactured shit they sell at the parts stores suck, go oem or go home.

 

[Aussie]

I will sell you a crank if you need one for an ls motor. And for a lot, a lot cheaper then that.