trying to find a "middle ground" for my engine build!!

[madking411]

I say im looking for a middle ground, because I'm thinking of building a somewhat strong engine a 1990 LS 4-door and so far i've got 3 options....

1st option is to go ALL OUT, get a turbo shortblock with all forged internals, race bearings, etc., gonna cost $1,500 for just the shortblock. I dont really have money like that, because in the end, it'll end up costing me ~3k for a fully built turbo street legal race motor...I can run it up to 350 - 400whp safely without getting sleeved...but im not so sure about running that daily.

2nd option is to keep it as is. Slow as s***, and low compression....:roll: gonna cost me $0.00 but sucks majorly to have a car thats supposed to be some sort of sports sedan, but is in reality VERY slow. The motor in my car even got beat by a singlecam bolt-on EK coupe :shock:

3rd option is to rebuild the engine, but to rebuild it with all stock parts. Basically just do a refresh of everything inside the motor (all the seals, bearings, etc.), get the compression back up with new piston rings, install the milled head with dual valve springs and titanium retainers that i have, and then boost it with an eBay turbo kit and then run 6psi daily on a small turbocharger.

So. What i need to do is try to figure out which of the three options would be the best "bang for the buck" as far as reliability is concerned, and as far as power is concerned. This is where i need assistance. Please provide some Constructive Criticism, or Positive input, ETC. I just need a bit of guidance as to which path would probably be best for someone on a budget looking for a nice amount of power and reliability.

 

[Man A]

sounds like your real problem is money. and thats about the same boat maybe 90% of car enthusiast are in. I would go with option 3. yes i want a fast 400hp+ vehicle but cant afford it. i myself would be happy with a rebuild with little upgrades to support a small turbo. since my goal isnt to be the fastest on the road Ill be very satisfied with anything more than stock. hell id be perfectly happy with a b18c and bolt ons and decent suspension. i just enjoy driving.

 

[madking411]

lol well, i guess i can expect maybe ~220 (max) whp from the option number three, if i get a good tune and run ~6pounds o'boost. I say 220 due to the extra compression of the milled head...

 

[snaggle_tooth]

yeah just just work with what you got now, save some extra cash on the side and save it for when you really want to do option 1.

 

[madking411]

yeah just just work with what you got now.

lol doing that is FTL, because what i've got now is an abused, overheated, and molested b18 with VERY low compression (140psi in each cylinder..it takes 135 for the engine to even turn over), and then for the longest amount of time, the engine didnt have oil in it, or the oil was always very low so the motor was continually getting weaker and now will only push my car to ~102mph

 

[wite2nr]

option 3 n/a. i wouldn't want a boosed dd unless i had another car. or a spare motor.

 

[Aussie]

LMAO you think your going to rebuild your motor for 1500 dollars. It would cost that much to do a basic stock rebuild. More than that if you have a shop do it. If your looking at building a fully sleeved and worked motor look at spending 3 times that.

I think option 3 is your best bet for the money but don't under estimate how much everything is going to cost you.

 

[madking411]

LMAO you think your going to rebuild your motor for 1500 dollars.

No, i meant to say thats how much a turbo short block with all forged internals is going to cost me from the engine services shop. Thats a direct quote, i already know it for a fact.

 

[Aussie]

What service shop is this? I would like to know what parts they are using, are they going to sleeve it, etc.....

 

[madking411]

^^^It's a place in Atlanta/Lilburn, Georgia called Ball Engine Parts and Services. They were going to use Wiseco pistons and im not really sure what rods....No sleeves, no bore, Hone only(to save a little bit of $), ACL race bearings, new main seal, and machining of the block, etc...

EDIT: basically, i told him what kind of boost i wanted to run, and what kind of goal for power that i was looking to get out of the motor, and he told me to call him back in about a week and he'd have all the prices for all the parts and labor of building the block.

 

[Aussie]

That's not a bad deal if he's going to do the work. If your going to rebuild your motor you might as well just upgrade your pistons and rods. Make sure you at least bore it over .25 or else your going to have to much clearance between your pistons and walls. Your stock sleeves will be fine at that size.

 

[madking411]

That's not a bad deal if he's going to do the work. If your going to rebuild your motor you might as well just upgrade your pistons and rods. Make sure you at least bore it over .25 or else your going to have to much clearance between your pistons and walls. Your stock sleeves will be fine at that size.

lol well here is my only problem; i dont really KNOW how to rebuild an engine, im going to school for that right now but we havent even gotten into the "lab" yet AKA the school's service shop....:roll:

Once i get a work order filled out for my school, so i can take my car in there, i'll be probably be posting up a whole detailed build thread on how i learned to pull the motor, dissasemble it, etc. etc etc. I can't wait until i can finally start to do all of that work

 

[madking411]

But HEY, just as well, if it would probably be cheaper in the end to just get another new/refurbished LS motor and just swap it out, and then go boost on that one, i'd rather do that instead. Then, i could probably keep the bad ls, and use it to practice engine building...

Would that be the less expensive route of things?