need advice with my future turbo setup

[tenshi_R]

what i have now:
b18b (RS) original engine with about 150k in very good condition no leaks of any kind
compression is i belive 167+- 2 in all4 cylinders
i have aem fuel rail,fpr, fuel pressure gauge
greddy evo2 exhaust
i used a programmable chip from moates and just added datalogging to it

i was planning to do a swap or build all motor LS but it seems that turbo is a good bang for the buck power

my goal is:
to have a ballanced power/ reliability turbo ( im not after big numbers)
so i can use my car as a daily reliable daily driver
and get whatever power i can from adding a small mid sized turbo
i would upgrade:cams, cam gears, possibly ignition
and block girdle nothign more internally

most likely custom manifold unless theres one that is perfect for my application on the market already

if possibly id like to use OEM parts from other cars since they are cheap( im on a tight turbo budget)
im very new to turbos so dont flame:

my questions:

what would be the best size turbo for my application
would i be able to tuen it with moates chip or should i get hondata or other
what size intercooler( if any i would need for this setup)
are there any silent/quiet blowoff walves that are not recirculating
if po

last question

i was searching thru pgmfi and here but couldnt find any similar setups
can someone with more experience provide me with links

 

[tenshi_R]

the parts i would need
injectors (possibly from other honda engines?)
exhaust manifold( no a/c)
turbo
downpipe
cams
camgears
piping
intercooler
bov
ignition?
manual boost controller
missing anything?

 

[dc2GS-R]

Budget, specific goals, etc. would help

DSM injectors are a cheap solution

Turbo depends on alot of factors (hp, spool time, budget, supporting mods...etc)

If you just want mild power on a daily driver then cams and gears are not necessary. Stock cams will work fine for a mild setup

Ignition isn't really necessary either depending on how "mild" you want it to be. Just some new plugs and wires will be fine

BOV = synapse or HKS IMO. No BOV is very quiet w/o recirculating (and they are still pretty audible)

I'm not familiar with the Moates chips so I can't comment on that. But Hondata > all

 

[tenshi_R]

i dont have a specific power goal
rather as much power as i could get out of stock engine while still keeping it somewhat reliable so 50/50 power/reliability is what im looking for.

i also forgot to add stronger head bolts to the list
spool time i would imagine be where the powercurve is on the LS motor is it around 4000- 6500? cant remember
would a wrx factory turbo be a good choice for it? or one from EVO?

 

[dc2GS-R]

Newer EVO's use a twin scroll variant of a 16G turbo which are more of PITA than they are worth. I have the EVO3 16G on my Eclipse GST and it is a great daily turbo considering price and capability. They run about $500 brand new, flow 550 cfm and are larger than a regular 16g. They are very similar to the "big 16g" with just a bigger compressor in the same housing. It is very close in to the 18G in terms of flow and potential. The 18G has slightly more potential but has a much less forgiving compressor map and doesn't spool near as quickly.

The stock WRX uses a Mitsubishi Turbo anyway :shock:.......it's just much smaller than any 16G

Except the STi.....it uses and IHI turbo

 

[tenshi_R]

ye the STI is what i meant.

 

[tenshi_R]

what about manifold?
and would it matter if i use 4-2-1 or 4-1 downpipe? oh and also the cat im planning to use from a turbo car so it dont burn out.

 

[Winki]

what about manifold?
and would it matter if i use 4-2-1 or 4-1 downpipe? oh and also the cat im planning to use from a turbo car so it dont burn out.

your down pipe will be one pipe that comes off of the turbo so.... i guess your thinking all motor there.
but any who if you dont live in cali just use the flex pipe. i dont know what exactly power goal you want but

t3 cast iron mani (simple)
38mm wg (tial)?
basic t3 maybe t3/t4 turbo(not ebay crap)
255 fuel pump
dsm 450s
bov
oil lines
an ebay fmic like 28x7x2.5
ic piping
cold plugs
chip and tune

can be pieed together for a good price

think thats at least most of what you need to make an easy 200 on a LS

 

[patrick4588]

turbo and tight budget should never be together

 

[Winki]

turbo and tight budget should never be together

:lol: but you can find good deal and you dont have to buy it all at once

 

[tenshi_R]

well that is if you re building a very powerfull one

i work at the shop and we got lots of sti and evos upgrading turbos so i can ask one of the guys to sell me his.

wouldnt i need Aadjustable cam gears to adjust timing too? even on stock cams

 

[tenshi_R]

yea lol no downpipe unless im running 4 separate miniature turbos off each cylinder exhaust pipe tuned to play different notes with separate blow off valves

 

[dc2GS-R]

^ i won't even comment or ask about what the hell that is supposed to mean....lol

For your other post..........The cams will be fine for a basic setup. Again, the newer EVO's use a twin scroll 16G which has absolutely no benefit without a manifold to take advantage of the dual turbine housing inlet. It's not worth it. The STi IHI turbo would be an easier solution but I'd still rather just get something else better suited to your application

 

[tenshi_R]

miniature turbo? yesss

anyway
i was browsing thru TI turbo "stock engien turbo" and the most popular turbo was 13/14 hybrid.
now that might be a lil expensive for me is there a cheaper OEM turbo that would be similar to that.

as i said im just starting to learn about turbo and trying to get hands on experience by installing one on my integra

i also notticed that most of the people posted have around 220-270hp on stock internals

wiht proper tune and good assembly.
i will probably get crome pro and ostrich for better tuning from moates.

 

[tenshi_R]

looking at some numbers at evans tuning it seems like i can make around 250whp on that block without sacrificing much reliability.
few guys there recommended Crane stage 2 turbo cams
i took out my AC and most likely will fab a custom manifold
equal length manifold would make alot of difference for that power goal?

it will most likely see a drag strip once or twice just to see
but mostly is my daily driver (hyway cruiser) around 3500rpm is where i want the boost to start
the t3/t4 hybrid turbos look like they are spooling up at around 4000> rpm which is ok if they get me to my desired power goal.


now my biggest question for turbo people
since theres so much shit hanging on the engine pipes does it negatively affect the power before boost? or fuel efficiency before boost like cruizin on the freeway?