'88 engine swap to zc help?

hello everyone I know this part of the forum isnt really active anymore but I havea couple of questions that maybe someone could clear up for me? I recently sold my 00 teg and bought a 2013 si sedan but not being able to mod it I bought a 1988 integra ls so I could still mess around with a car I picked one up for 700 and the guy says it stopped running.


So i towed it home and I have been trying to get it to run, it cranks over but not starting, I have checked my main relay its fine, I checked for spark and swapped out the plugs thats working and i can smell fuel, my friend suggested i do a compression test and it came back with 1)150. 2)150 3)115 and 4)150 so i suppose i am out of luck? any help on trying to get this thing to turn over? I have checked fuses as well..


Also which motor will bolt straight in with the least amount of hassle, some say the DOHC ZC but others say it has to be a specific year? any thoughts/:shock::shock::shock::shock:
 

enoch723

New Member
Yeah, it has to be a 88 or 89 black top ZC from the jdm integra to just bolt in. But at the end of the day, Any dohc pre 90 ZC willwork with very little work. Usually its simply shaving a mount a little to make everything fit.

But to getting it running, did you actually get new wires? Check the dis cap, fuel pump, filter, air intake.. etc. Just sounds like air and fuel ratio is off like usual
 
Yeah, it has to be a 88 or 89 black top ZC from the jdm integra to just bolt in. But at the end of the day, Any dohc pre 90 ZC willwork with very little work. Usually its simply shaving a mount a little to make everything fit.

But to getting it running, did you actually get new wires? Check the dis cap, fuel pump, filter, air intake.. etc. Just sounds like air and fuel ratio is off like usual
so will the DOHC ZC from the crx or civic work witht the stock mounts?

I did not get new wires, the wires looked new, but i did get new plugs, and the cap and rotor look new as well. i can hear the fuel pump click on, how owuld i be able to check if it is getting to the fuel rail? and there isn't a intake on the car ha.

the guy I bought it from said something about having to choke the throttle body to get it to turn over make any sense/
 

enoch723

New Member
Choking the throttle body? Is it carbed or something? Lol. It sounds like you might have too much air getting in the chamber. But an easy thing to check is the fuel filter, loosen the top bolt and try to turn it over for just a sec.. if you saw gas fly out then the pump is working. Been several time i hear it click on but its not actually working like it should.
 


Choking the throttle body? Is it carbed or something? Lol. It sounds like you might have too much air getting in the chamber. But an easy thing to check is the fuel filter, loosen the top bolt and try to turn it over for just a sec.. if you saw gas fly out then the pump is working. Been several time i hear it click on but its not actually working like it should.
the guy was a little hungover when i bought it from him. how would i adjust the amount of air going into it?

im starting to think it might be the fuel filter it looks old and knowing my luck it was never changed :roll:
 

enoch723

New Member
Well since your having problems with the dashpot, the throttle body, butterfly flap probably isnt closing like it should just t start. I think you need to start with the fuel filter though. Do like i said and juat loosen the nut on rop and try to turn it over
 
Well I went ahead and replaced the filter still no start could it be the intjectors?
 


enoch723

New Member
could be. Really the last thing you could check. check the idle screw, warm idle and cold idle too (might as well)
To be honest its probably easier to just replace them though cause if they are good, no saying how long they will last or what they have gone through or anything.
With new injectors, and all the idles open the only thing that would really be left is maybe the alternator or the lines or something..
 
could be. Really the last thing you could check. check the idle screw, warm idle and cold idle too (might as well)
To be honest its probably easier to just replace them though cause if they are good, no saying how long they will last or what they have gone through or anything.
With new injectors, and all the idles open the only thing that would really be left is maybe the alternator or the lines or something..
well my buddy came over yesterday and we got it finally to turn over and run it was a combo of the vaccumm lines being plugged up wrong and spark plug lines being completely wrong.

I let it run for about 40 min, and it sounded great but when i hit the throttle it bogged down so i think it was the dash pot, so i unhooked it and plugged the line and no more bogging down! i turned it off and let it sit( wanted to make sure radiator was filled all the way, no air bubbles ) and when i tried cranking it over no dice took 3 times, 1st time nothing 2nd time with smoke came out of the manifold :shock: but third time it did successfully start, any ideas? i adjusted the trottle screw and that helped it when it was running but idk. any sensors do you think could be stopping it? thanks for the help
 
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