Yeah, exactly. If your big numbers (on the outside of the gauge) are in miles then the counter will read in miles. You will have smaller numbers, those will be in km. Those smaller numbers have nothing to do with your mileage. Simply to help you understand how fast you were driving if you were to be driving in a country that uses kph. My cluster has kilometers in the big numbers and miles in the smaller.
Yeah, exactly. If your big numbers (on the outside of the gauge) are in miles then the counter will read in miles. You will have smaller numbers, those will be in km. Those smaller numbers have nothing to do with your mileage. Simply to help you understand how fast you were driving if you were to be driving in a country that uses kph. My cluster has kilometers in the big numbers and miles in the smaller.
I know what the smaller guage is at the bottom...im talking about the top one. If you are saying your reading of 200,000 is converted to 124K, then why isnt my 214513 in km and in miles?
If the 7836 is your bottom counter then that is your trip counter. It is actually 783.6. If you push the little stick that comes out of your cluster it will reset those numbers to 0. Those are in miles for you as well. I reset my trip counter everything I fill up so I can keep track of my mpg.
On my way to school someone sprayed my car is who knows what. I was following a van on the highway and all of a sudden this was all over my front end, windshield and mirrors. Black on Black by Austin Rajki, on Flickr
I got home from school round 3:30 and had 2 hours of daylight left.
First off the little shield that is under the front end was sagging so far down that it had to be removed. Sagging by Austin Rajki, on Flickr
And a couple bolts later and it was out. Oh...if you're wondering why there is a drain pan under my car my gas stank started leaking at the seam recently. I'm *hopefully* picking up a new tank tomorrow from someone parting out their car. Gone by Austin Rajki, on Flickr
I also decided to remove the manifold heat shield as it is hideous, not that the manifold is much better, but whatever. I still have to remove the other half of it, but there was no way I was doing it while it was hot. Dirty Bays Done Dirt Cheap by Austin Rajki, on Flickr
Then I decided to go back to a stripped out interior to carry out my original plans of a 6 point roll cage. Trim by Austin Rajki, on Flickr
Then I took it one step further than I did last time and took everything out. Plastic trim and belts. :lol: Race Car Mode by Austin Rajki, on Flickr
I also went to install my UKDM tails knowing that my tail light seals were bad, but decided against it. I dont want any water entering the hatch through my brand new tails, so I just ordered a set of OEM seals from OEMAcuraParts.com. I hope they get here soon!
Everything I did today was another 19.22 lbs. So that's a total of 167.16 lbs gone now. The car is now lighter WITH me in it compared to the day I bought her with no driver.
OH! I can't forget- It's nothing for sure, but a kid in my program who knows Hondas very well has a cousin with a full B18C1 head and intake manifold. He came to me knowing I was building my Teg saying if I wanted the VTEC head he could probably get it for me for around $250. I'll find out if I can buy it or not tomorrow unless he forgets. If I can get it really cheap, I'll run a LS/VTEC set up until I go K. Then the car at least has a little bit of power. I won't get my hopes up though.
I just got back from meeting up with a guy who was parting his teg out because during a recent storm we had his portable garage got knocked over onto his car.
First off I NEEDED a gas tank. Mine started leaking recently at the seam around half way. I picked a tank up from him as well as a bezel to mount my AP1 cluster in once I finally pick it up as well as a drivers side power door lock actuator to hopefully get the driver side keyless entry working. I really don't know if the actuator will solve the problem or not since I'm not sure if the alarm system the previous owner installed used OEM actuators or not. I really don't know how that is set up since the RS never had power locks from factory.
The tank has a bit of surface rust on it and it's really dirty, but it looks to be in good shape. It has a new fuel pump in it, so that's a bonus. The seam is still good so that will fix my problem I've tried searching online for tanks but after shipping they were over $200. My price for a new tank was $330. I'm not too worried about my $80 tank since I'm toying with the idea of a fuel cell. New Fuel Tank by Austin Rajki, on Flickr
All together $100 isn't too bad
I also got an email saying that my tail light gaskets have shipped out. Hopefully they get here soon so I can solve my hatch leak, then paint the interior.
I'm sure you'll find more stuff you want, I'm jelly of those ukdm tails. Lol
