96LSteg
Jemel
Do you not have slotted/drilled rotors?I'm not sure, I assume so. After I started babying the brakes, it was fine, I just couldn't use my brakes at even like 75%.
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Do you not have slotted/drilled rotors?I'm not sure, I assume so. After I started babying the brakes, it was fine, I just couldn't use my brakes at even like 75%.
I could see that, they also crack. It's basically connect the dotsI've heard drilled rotors are more prone to warping due to being weaker.
I need to go to oem rears.My drilled and slotted rotors played connect the dots, much worse than that pic. It was full cracks that you could see light through. However, they never warped.... Like I said, I am not sure why you have such a bad warping issue. It has to be how you are driving it...But yah you might want to try brake ducts or something. Or maybe a weaker pad compound. Hawk HP+ and oem rears is all I am using.
I wouldn't run OEM rears with CR pads. Thadya does that with her Carbotech and it's a wild experience. I just have the hawk ceramics in rearI need to go to oem rears.
Yes, the more the wheel is turned, the less you should be on the brake. Takes a lot of practice to do correctly.Isnt trail braking braking into a corner and the more you turn in, the more your foot comes off the brake?
You can put more into the rear if thats what you want. The cheapest way would be to just get a less grippy front pad. Essentially does just that. Just be careful with doing that, because too much rear braking will cause you to spin super easy. The more complicated way would be to get an adjustable prop valve, such as the one wilwood makes. I suggest the pad method first.I wish I could put more brake into the rear. One of the things I worked on was easing on/off the brakes/throttle