He builds race engine for outlaws and getting the most out of small engines is right up his alley. I'll ask him and see what he did. When I asked him why he went so far with it his response was: "Why not? No sense going halfway when it can be done right." lol
I do know that when we flushed the motor with diesel, it didn't take long for diesel to be coming out the exhaust.
When we got the car, the injectors were shot and the car was probably making 90 horse. Once we fixed everything up she really pours on the power above 5K.
He didn't say he ran the car with diesel in it. He probably just flushed it with diesel. I've heard plenty of people doing this. Now I don't agree with it, but nevertheless
Also the motor was destined to fail if a "valve job" destroyed the rings, you had problems before man. And ring grooves, you cross hatching?? Or do you mean the rings pitting the cylinder walls?
Well, the logic behind why the rings failed is spot on. Putting a fresh head on a worn block generally causes these kind of issues. However, everything else you have said is just retarded. The pistons can not be pulled out from the bottom of the block for multiple reasons.
Reason 1: It isn't possible. Here are a few pics to show you why:
See that lip at the bottom of the cylinder? It is for your mains like others have stated. Here is a visual for underneath if you still believe you can pull them through.
That alone foils your plan. Not to mention you will have the crank in the way..and also no way for you to reinstall the pistons...Also no way for you to stick the hone in there.
See the problem?
You would have to pull the head off in order to get the pistons out and hone it. However, I highly recommend honing it the proper way with the block stripped and on a torque plate. I also find it very unlikely that after that many miles you don't have ring wear. That being said though, honing the block with the crank installed is just asking for trouble regardless. All of the debris will cause bearing failures. Also, why did you choose .020 over rings? Your cylinders I am assuming are the standard 81mm, right? .020 over is 81.5mm. Which in the piston world is way too big for your cylinders. If you are worried about the ring gap after you hone then filing down some .010 rings would be more logical, but still a risk if you don't have proper p2w clearances. I would highly recommend boring after that many miles have been on those cylinder walls. It just isn't worth reassembling only to find you are still burning oil.
Well, I had assumed you could do this from the bottom but after reading all the posts above it sounds like its a real bearcat.
It looks like I will be pulling the motor at a later date and installing the extra engine that I have and then work on this engine. Glad I posted here before digging into it.
Well, that is why I posted here. Obviously, this is not a Chevy 350. I have worked on motorcycle and car/truck engines but I am learning that these are very picky and the tolerances are very close.
Yes, we flushed the motor with diesel (it is a block with 240K on it and had been neglected)l. It was not run through the fuel system. As stated earlier I did not want the valves heavily worked on, just checked out and the valve guides replaced. Instead I got a rebuilt head.
The cylinder walls still have the honing marks although they are faint. No piston ring at the top. A little wavy in a few spots.
Pull the motor and hold the head until the block is dressed up and use the low mile motor in the meantime. That's the plan.
