Amp wiring question

[awright3331]

Ok so Ive got a JVC head unit and an 300 watt JVL amp. I was wondering, i run the amp power to the battery using a inline fuse, run the ground wire under the back seat, and then I take and run the orange remote wire to the orange wire on the head unit, but can I take, and run the left and right amp channels to the head unit to? or do i need to run it with the audio cable hookups?

 

[TheSkygun]

are you talking about the rca cables? you have me a little lost there.
and for ground you can just use the strut bolt even. and yes for the fuse to the battery, unless you want to risk frying your shit.

 

[awright3331]

are you talking about the rca cables? you have me a little lost there.
and for ground you can just use the strut bolt even. and yes for the fuse to the battery, unless you want to risk frying your s***.

Yes, as it stands i have the amp power to the battery with a switch to turn on and off under my seat, have had it like that for a while. but im just trying to get it to sound as good as possible. i have the left side rear spliced out into the amp and the speaker(im putting brand new wire through the car) but today i was playing with it and realized when something is spliced into that wire, the speaker has less power, so im thinking if i get the copper scoshe RCA wire hookups, i can run new wiring on that rear channel with scoshe speaker wire, and hook it up that way, and have more power in my stereo system.

 

[TheSkygun]

the speaker wire will transfer the signal and power to the sub better
but some first questions are: what size sub you have, what watt amp you have, what wire gauge you running?
the switch is good but you can have a remote wire to the amp some when the headunit goes on the amp gets the signal too.
the rca will transfer a much cleaner, clearer, sound to the sub since rca is much better then speaker wire (from headunit to amp)

what headunit you have and what amp

 

[awright3331]

the speaker wire will transfer the signal and power to the sub better
but some first questions are: what size sub you have, what watt amp you have, what wire gauge you running?
the switch is good but you can have a remote wire to the amp some when the headunit goes on the amp gets the signal too.
the rca will transfer a much cleaner, clearer, sound to the sub since rca is much better then speaker wire (from headunit to amp)

what headunit you have and what amp

Head unit JvC KD-R208
Amp is a 350 watt
Idk the gauge of the wire

the subwoofer is a pioneer 1100 watt(i know a 350 amp isnt using that full potential but my g1 would probably rattle apart)

I have a pretty good sounding system right now cause I just figured out how to get the head unit out of the dash on my G1 and got the front two channels wired up to the front instead of having those two speakers wired to the back(which was causing some issues) and now i have the amp hooked up and running, but I want the best sound possible so im going to do it the best way possible rather than the ghetto style i have now lol

 

[TheSkygun]

run rca from headunit to amp. get a think(ish) wire to run to the sub from the amp.
find out the wire gauge.
make sure the inline fuse and grounds are right for your setup
headunit is alright.

are you willing to rebuy stuff or keep what you have?

 

[TheSkygun]

if you want to fully redo for a great sound.

id get a five channel amp that has 3 inputs (fronts,backs, sub)
a headunit that has the 3 outputs (alpine makes a great unit)
go 2 gauge wire for power and ground to the sub
and have all inputs from the headunit to amp using the rcas
can upgrade the speaker wire from amp to speakers
get new speakers in the front, back if you want but stock is fine since your not the one back there
and if you want to use that sub get an amp rated for that power, can mess up an amp that is trying to pull too much power to give to a sub it wasnt meant to power

it doesnt take much to bump our cars with a sub

just for examples:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KDCX997/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X997.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS610C/Alpine-SPS-610C.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_108KAPPA5V/Infinity-Kappa-Five.html

 

[awright3331]

ImA use what i have, it sounds pretty good but im gonna take it up a notch and get the rcas and max out my amp

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[TheSkygun]

sounds good

 

[TheSkygun]

also i would say check the wire gauge for power, too much power going from battery to amp can cause them to melt or burn

 

[TheCrimsonStar]

also i would say check the wire gauge for power, too much power going from battery to amp can cause them to melt or burn

This. For as small an amp as that I'd say around 8 or 10 gauge. I run 4ga on my 1000W RMS amp. It all depends on amperage not wattage but something that small isn't gonna pull much. 8ga may be a little overkill but it'll get the job done


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[awright3331]

This. For as small an amp as that I'd say around 8 or 10 gauge. I run 4ga on my 1000W RMS amp. It all depends on amperage not wattage but something that small isn't gonna pull much. 8ga may be a little overkill but it'll get the job done


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The wire i have is 16 gauge, and 16 gauge speaker wire, cause thats all i had left from my 83 camaro project that I did

Got everything right on that car then sold it. ran and drove. 383 stroker engine quadra jet carb, muncie 4 speed transmission with a B&M Quick Silver ratchet shifter, a 411 positrac rear end, oh and not forget the centerlines

 

[TheSkygun]

Better to go bigger so that if needed it'll pull. I'm running 2g for if I go back to my 1000w amp and sub. But I'm using two amps at the moment. Even though the amp isn't meant to pull more the sub might cause it to. Blown fuses were common to me for such a reason until I upgraded

 

[TheSkygun]

Your powering a 300-400w amp with 16gauge?

 

[awright3331]

Your powering a 300-400w amp with 16gauge?

Yeah, cant buy any 2g wire yet.

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