April's Build Thread

msaprildawn

New Member
And do you care what they think?




It could be as simple as that. I was at raceline when elton was tuning and troubleshooting a turbo, no boost, and after reinspecting some lines, the owner of the car hooked them up backwards. Cant hurt to go back over the install procedure like a check list.

You said recently the turbo was checked while the motor was out and it was good. How was the condition of the motor?
The motor looked good. I hire a Vietnamese guy that works on imports and he travels over to my garage to help me out haha so I don't have to tow it to his shop. He opened it up and showed me that everything looked good. I have a picture in my build thread somewhere of the block
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
I'll probably have the shop whos tuning it figure out the boost problem.
Tuners HATE when customers bring them cars that arent ready to be tuned. The shop is going to charge you the full hourly rate to troubleshoot this. Im willing to help if you want to dive into it.
 

UalRamper

New Member
WOW so I just went threw this whole thread and I'm impressed with your cars transformation.
I saw a thread of yours on TI and it wasn't as detailed as this one.
I think I know why you aren't on there as much as here, but that's another story.
I wish I could help you out but I'm just not up with turbo's I can build a motor and do a bunch but just never really liked them.
I had a civic I put a turbo in and really didn't like it, but it was a D series motor so I guess I shouldn't have expected much.
I'm trying to figure out to subscribe to this thread so I can keep up with it.
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
At the top of the thread theres a toolbar, one that says thread tools is where youll see the subscribe option.
 

msaprildawn

New Member
Tuners HATE when customers bring them cars that arent ready to be tuned. The shop is going to charge you the full hourly rate to troubleshoot this. Im willing to help if you want to dive into it.

Even if you told me I'm not sure I'd be able to do it. I have a book with a diagram but there so many lines its confusing! I may be able to take some pictures tomorrow showing where the lines are going from and where they are going to if you think you can help out by looking at the pictures?
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
Id say its worth a shot. Id start with familiarizing yourself with each part what it does and how it functions. Then everything will make more sense and it'll be easier to understand when someone is trying to guide you. Its just remembering stuff.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
No pictures yet. Let’s start with the basics first..

1.) Verify that your turbo is not seized up. Remove the turbo intake if you have one so you can see the compressor wheel. Start the engine and visually check if the wheel is spinning. Sometimes journal bearing or larger turbos don’t have enough exhaust energy to spin at idle so try to blip the throttle pulley a little and see if the turbo spins at all. *Do not put your hand next to the inlet or anything stupid like that, visual only*

2.) Verify your wastegate is closed at idle. You can test this by simply checking with your hand for exhaust coming out of the dumptube when the engine is idling. There should be nothing coming out of the dump. A lot of newbs forget to install the fire ring or even the spring could have been removed. Both would cause exhaust to vent pre turbo and result in no boost.

3.) Check for boost looks. First inspect every coupler on the charge pipe. Look for cracks or anything obvious. If you are using worm gear style clamps then they may have been over tightened and can chew into the couple causing it to tear. Inversely they may not be tight enough, use best judgment here. You can test for leaks a number of ways (smoke test, starter fluid test, pressure test). The pressure test is the most definitive where you cap the turbo inlet with something like a PVC pipe end cap from home depot then drill and tap it with an air hose fitting. Pressurize the entire intake system with an air compressor and see if it holds air or listen to where it leaks. Sometimes cheap blow off valves leak as well.
 

msaprildawn

New Member
No pictures yet. Let’s start with the basics first..

1.) Verify that your turbo is not seized up. Remove the turbo intake if you have one so you can see the compressor wheel. Start the engine and visually check if the wheel is spinning. Sometimes journal bearing or larger turbos don’t have enough exhaust energy to spin at idle so try to blip the throttle pulley a little and see if the turbo spins at all. *Do not put your hand next to the inlet or anything stupid like that, visual only*

2.) Verify your wastegate is closed at idle. You can test this by simply checking with your hand for exhaust coming out of the dumptube when the engine is idling. There should be nothing coming out of the dump. A lot of newbs forget to install the fire ring or even the spring could have been removed. Both would cause exhaust to vent pre turbo and result in no boost.

3.) Check for boost looks. First inspect every coupler on the charge pipe. Look for cracks or anything obvious. If you are using worm gear style clamps then they may have been over tightened and can chew into the couple causing it to tear. Inversely they may not be tight enough, use best judgment here. You can test for leaks a number of ways (smoke test, starter fluid test, pressure test). The pressure test is the most definitive where you cap the turbo inlet with something like a PVC pipe end cap from home depot then drill and tap it with an air hose fitting. Pressurize the entire intake system with an air compressor and see if it holds air or listen to where it leaks. Sometimes cheap blow off valves leak as well.
First of all thanks for explaining this to me in terms that I can EASILY understand. Number one and two seem easy enough but I don't have an air compressor to do number 3. I can visually inspect the couplers but that is probably it. Is there another method that doesn't need an air compressor??
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
yeah i wish i had turbo setup to try that on.. lol Wouldnt be afraid to ask if i didnt understand though. Learning is learning.
 

msaprildawn

New Member
I do have one question about my wastegate. On other pictures they have both holes closed up on it but on mine one of them is open. It is threaded like it's meant to have something in there to block it. Here's an example of one I found online and my own.
[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
You're welcome and yes there are. You can get a portable compressed air tank and fill it up with someone’s air compressor. Or you try the smoke test where you can use something like chalk dust to visually see air movement around the couplers that would indicate a leak. Or you can try soapy water around the couplers and watch for bubbles but I dont know if that would work well.

However I doubt its a boost leak because it would have to be a BIG leak (like a blown out coupler) to dump all pressurized air in which case it would be obvious where the problem was.

The top wastegate port is for a boost controller. Leave that open. Its not an issue.
 

UalRamper

New Member
Hey so I managed to subscribe and I got one email alert so thats cool.

Those rims were Konig something, and have been long gone as well as the car.

It sucks that these guys dont have shops to do tuning correctly, trying to tune on the street is crazy !!

You should def weight out the costs to get it to a legit shop versus dumping money into guys coming to and from your house.
 
Top