Rubbing Compound Questions!

drevans_satx

Dylan
Well that makes me feel a little better lol. Idk though I live/work on a ranch so i'm a pretty strong guy, jk.

I'm going to save your step process and try to pick up those compounds. Can they be applied by hand?
dc2GS-R, you're in Texas as well. Can you point me towards a good place to pick up the compounds and pads?? Maybe a Porter Cable 7424xp or something like it? I have experience with the machines I was just too forgetful to get buffer pads therefore....applied by hand.
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
drevans_satx said:
Well that makes me feel a little better lol. Idk though I live/work on a ranch so i'm a pretty strong guy, jk.

I'm going to save your step process and try to pick up those compounds. Can they be applied by hand?
dc2GS-R, you're in Texas as well. Can you point me towards a good place to pick up the compounds and pads?? Maybe a Porter Cable 7424xp or something like it? I have experience with the machines I was just too forgetful to get buffer pads therefore....applied by hand.
Click to expand...
Be prepared to spend take a while. It's pretty time consuming. Wash, clay, cut, polish, wipe, wax. It's a full day for me.

I buy all of my stuff from here: http://www.detailedimage.com/

The M105 cut compound and M205 finishing compound are meant to be applied by machine. They have starter kits and whatnot to get you in the door under the "DI Packages" link.

They also have good guides and explanations of most of the stuff here: http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/
 
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drevans_satx

Dylan
I use Meguiers ultimate wash and wax to wash the car and mothers clay bar kit afterwards. My clay comes out pretty clean every time I wash (once a week. The butterfly migration is killer). Also my paint is always smooth especially after the Ultimate Compound. My terry cloth glides over it.

The order is generally?:
wash
clay
cut
finish
wax
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
Yes. The idea is to remove all the contaminants that may be on the paint before you start applying compound. Otherwise, the buffing motions can just make more swirls and imperfections if there is dirt or whatever underneath the pad while you work it. There are dozens of steps that can be used. It all just depends on how much time and money you want to spend. Some peole go to the extreme like:

Wash, clay, wash, cut, finish, polish, glaze, seal, wax.

I usually don't have that kind of time on my hands. I skip washing after clay and just make sure to really wipe it down good while claying to remove all the residue, oils and contaminants. I usually go light on the cut with only about a pair of passes because I keep my cars in good shape and they don't need that much. After you do the whole process once really good, if you keep up good washing practices, it's just a matter lightly maintaining the finish. I finish with few more passes than cutting because the 205 finishes down well enough that I usually don't need to come back and polish. I just spend more time on that step so I don't need another. The rest is all toppers, most of the time I only wax. I don't bother with seal and glaze because I'm not going for a show car finish. But I do reapply wax often.

So I usually: wash, clay, light cut, finish good, wax.

Of course it all depends on how much correction your paint needs. After doing all of my cars pretty heavy the first time to remove everything, I don't have to really ever hit it that hard again since it never gets too bad out of shape. But that's also depends on your washing habits. I try to make a point not to put swirls marks back on it, especially with half-asked washes and bad drying habits.
 


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drevans_satx

Dylan
I'll take a few pictures after I get home from work, but you can see the switling mostly on the hatch and spoiler.
Today I also found some orange peel(?) on the arches next to rear windows. It looks like the outside of an orange peel, and I can kinda feel the ripple.

Once again. I'll get pictures soon.
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
I wouldnt put it past previous owners to one stage it. We would like to assume type r owners make better decisions but.... You should be able to feel and possibly visually see over spray. Claybar helps to remove some if not most. You could try compounding another small section that is less like to have caught over spray or wash and claybar to see if you get any results. You can tell the difference between one stage paint and two stage but might take a more experienced eye, especially with hondas. Our clear coats are not very generous from the factory so theyre pretty thin to begin with.
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
After doing a little reading, apparently it is super common on the PY ITR. Maybe they were single staged from the factory? :what:
 


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dmcastillo86

New Member
Im a detailer at CarMax and i have experienced this before and we use a variable speed buffer. Like stated because overspray/re paint. 2cdGS-R is on point about the process do that and youll come out with a mirror shine everytime. Also 3M makes good products for swirl removal. Comes in a blue bottle. Its what we use at work. Just use it with a soft foam pad,we use a 3M black pad. Also that Tech Wax is awesome! IMO. I hate dealing with Hondas/Acuras at work because they have soft paint and its a bitch to rub out the polishes after i apply them. But GL with your detail
 

drevans_satx

Dylan
Dat orange peel(?) the other pillar reflects that image of my garage door mirror like


Not the light it really is swirl marks, but I can't feel anything


Two places where you can see it. It's bad on the spoiler




In the not so bright light of my garage
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
Highly likely they were there prior cus you havent had it very long but swirls most often come from how its washed. People using harsh bristle brushes etc. I used to do it too out of convenience but have since turned to hand wash with micro fiber only.
 

LoweredDC4

Jimmy
dc2GS-R said:
Be prepared to spend take a while. It's pretty time consuming. Wash, clay, cut, polish, wipe, wax. It's a full day for me.

I buy all of my stuff from here: http://www.detailedimage.com/

The M105 cut compound and M205 finishing compound are meant to be applied by machine. They have starter kits and whatnot to get you in the door under the "DI Packages" link.

They also have good guides and explanations of most of the stuff here: http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/
Click to expand...
I also use the meguirs 105 and 205 at the body shop. I use it on my makita buffer. after i use the 205 i use a micro machine polish from 3m. its suppose to help get rid of swirls and what not.. I finish it all off with final inspection spray from meguirs to get all of the oils and stuff off..
 

LoweredDC4

Jimmy
drevans_satx said:
What causes swirls? Is it the way i'm washing? Or maybe it's just been there and I haven't noticed it till now..
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what i think causes the swirls is the oily stuff in the compound. but then again, i use a buffer to apply the compound and not by hand.

edit: we are not talking about the same kind of swirls lol.. i just seen your pics and those arent swirls.. theyre just scratches lol..
 
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