OGstackadoIIa
TEAM LlGHTSPEED RACING
I run this town, nigga
Kileys K20z3 DC D.D.
- Thread starter Beat92240
- Start date
OGstackadoIIa
TEAM LlGHTSPEED RACING
So we're agreed then!
Beat92240
New Member
FUEL
While you're all out running towns and what not I've been slaving away on this thing...haha. Running my town is the eventual goal.
So here we go for the fuel systems needs for a Kswap:
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Fuel Rail
Fuel Lines
K series use returnless fuel systems. In returnless systems the fuel pressure is regulated electronically by the ECU depending on signals from a fuel pressure sensor in conjunction with RPM, O2 sensors, etc.
The DC uses a fuel return system. The good ol type of mechanical regulation. The fuel pressure is regulated by...well the regulator through manifold vac pressure. The higher the pressure, the more fuel the diaphram keeps in the system. The lower the manifold pressure, the less fuel is in the system. Easy right?
While you're all out running towns and what not I've been slaving away on this thing...haha. Running my town is the eventual goal.
So here we go for the fuel systems needs for a Kswap:
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Fuel Rail
Fuel Lines
K series use returnless fuel systems. In returnless systems the fuel pressure is regulated electronically by the ECU depending on signals from a fuel pressure sensor in conjunction with RPM, O2 sensors, etc.
The DC uses a fuel return system. The good ol type of mechanical regulation. The fuel pressure is regulated by...well the regulator through manifold vac pressure. The higher the pressure, the more fuel the diaphram keeps in the system. The lower the manifold pressure, the less fuel is in the system. Easy right?
Last edited:
Beat92240
New Member
AP1 to DC2 Cluster Install
I'm aware theres a pretty good amount of threads based on this out there but I didn't find a really good one for doing the swap that were specifically for DC2 chassis with AP1 cluster. So I figured I'd make a quick Excel sheet to make it as easy as possible to follow:
Those were all the wires I used. I'm sure that if you wanted you could hook up the dimmer to work with the dash lights in the car, but I figured I had a knob which seems easier to use to me than the dash so I just kept the dimmer hooked up to that.
Constant 12V was just tapped into at the fuse box. I use the accessory plug ports in the top of the fuse box for all my add ons such as this cluster.
Everything works perfect with this wiring setup with the exception of the VSS and ECT. I haven't been able to check that wiring yet due to not having the K swapped in yet. From what I've read though with this wiring there should be no need for any converters between the dash and the sensors. Straight plug and play.
Finally got my dual gauge cluster trim in. You get what yo pay for...what can I say. I got the GlowShift version off of eBay. I'd like to see how much better the Autometer version is. Anyone have experience with one? Its twice as much most places but I would have gladly paid it the first time around. It came in STRAIGHT FROM GLOWSHIFT with scratches and molding bubbles on the bezel. I figured I'd let it slide and try getting it in the car. Fitment is less than desireable too. Theres a decent sized gap the whole way around the dash as if it was molded about an 1/8th of an inch sized down from the factory piece. So I would recommend against it if you're pretty picky like me.
Anyways, we had to work with what I had at the time. I told the cluster and bezel to my buddy who does interiors and audio at RPM Hot Rods (The guys who did the Good Guys Giveaway car this year). So this is how the big boys do it that have abilities to create cars above any of mine. We went to happy hour which...oddly enough too a couple hours longer than we anticipated, so we didn't get back to start working on the thing until about 10 oclock so we were in a bit of a rush to get done that night.
Step 1 - Create a trace of the area you want to show the dash with some tracing paper:
Step 2 - Cut out the S2000 cluster template:
Step 3 - Add in a buffer for a "smallest size possible" that the trim piece absolutely cannot be smaller than in order to cover the gap present in the bezel:
Step 4 - Begin getting your cut on:
Step 5 - Next flatten out the new bezel. Use some tape to make a nice guide line to make the cut as straight as possible.
Step 6 - As a quick, easily reversible adhesive that is just full of all around win, use some hot glue to glue the new trim piece to the S2000 cluster. We then hot glued the cluster/trim piececombo to the modified bezel.
Step 7 - Complete! Should come out looking like this. I only had one shitball gauge laying around while waiting for my new gauges to come in, so I left the other gapping hole out of this picture.
I'm aware theres a pretty good amount of threads based on this out there but I didn't find a really good one for doing the swap that were specifically for DC2 chassis with AP1 cluster. So I figured I'd make a quick Excel sheet to make it as easy as possible to follow:
Those were all the wires I used. I'm sure that if you wanted you could hook up the dimmer to work with the dash lights in the car, but I figured I had a knob which seems easier to use to me than the dash so I just kept the dimmer hooked up to that.
Constant 12V was just tapped into at the fuse box. I use the accessory plug ports in the top of the fuse box for all my add ons such as this cluster.
Everything works perfect with this wiring setup with the exception of the VSS and ECT. I haven't been able to check that wiring yet due to not having the K swapped in yet. From what I've read though with this wiring there should be no need for any converters between the dash and the sensors. Straight plug and play.
Finally got my dual gauge cluster trim in. You get what yo pay for...what can I say. I got the GlowShift version off of eBay. I'd like to see how much better the Autometer version is. Anyone have experience with one? Its twice as much most places but I would have gladly paid it the first time around. It came in STRAIGHT FROM GLOWSHIFT with scratches and molding bubbles on the bezel. I figured I'd let it slide and try getting it in the car. Fitment is less than desireable too. Theres a decent sized gap the whole way around the dash as if it was molded about an 1/8th of an inch sized down from the factory piece. So I would recommend against it if you're pretty picky like me.
Anyways, we had to work with what I had at the time. I told the cluster and bezel to my buddy who does interiors and audio at RPM Hot Rods (The guys who did the Good Guys Giveaway car this year). So this is how the big boys do it that have abilities to create cars above any of mine. We went to happy hour which...oddly enough too a couple hours longer than we anticipated, so we didn't get back to start working on the thing until about 10 oclock so we were in a bit of a rush to get done that night.
Step 1 - Create a trace of the area you want to show the dash with some tracing paper:
Step 2 - Cut out the S2000 cluster template:
Step 3 - Add in a buffer for a "smallest size possible" that the trim piece absolutely cannot be smaller than in order to cover the gap present in the bezel:
Step 4 - Begin getting your cut on:
Step 5 - Next flatten out the new bezel. Use some tape to make a nice guide line to make the cut as straight as possible.
Step 6 - As a quick, easily reversible adhesive that is just full of all around win, use some hot glue to glue the new trim piece to the S2000 cluster. We then hot glued the cluster/trim piececombo to the modified bezel.
Step 7 - Complete! Should come out looking like this. I only had one shitball gauge laying around while waiting for my new gauges to come in, so I left the other gapping hole out of this picture.
Last edited:
whitedc4
Well-Known Member
Beat92240
New Member
:thumbs up
Add that on to my list of accomplishments!
Finished out the S2000 cluster install page a few replies up.
Also figured I'd give you a sneak peak at my "summer valve cover set". Since this is a Daily Driver and I live in western PA, I don't want to risk running this one in winter. So I'll have another "beater cover" for the bad weather times.
Heres my purdy one:
Beat92240
New Member
Thanks, I was concerned how it'd look with the chrome valve cover but it actually ended up to e a pretty amazing combo. I have another valve cover combo getting done right now too that I'll run in winter so the harsh PA salting/whatever the hell the put on the roads to de-ice them doesn't damage it.
I have the stainless steel cover though. The titanium ones don't have the plate riveted to it, just says like ARC in pink/purple lettering. Looks pretty sweet as well but I haven't really seen many of these come up in either form over the years since they went bankrupt so I had to scoop this up as soon as I saw it.
Ominous G2
┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
Looking good, and PA winters can definitely suck.
Beat92240
New Member
Yeah they can...now I'm all torn though because my engine builder just called and said the motor was all good. Some bearings were looking about to go so we're repacing them with some ACL Race Bearings and re-ringing it all with a new Honda ring set. Other than that it was all perfect. Re-gasketing everything and should have it back within a week or two max. I was figuring on not putting it in til after winter but I may be bumping that up now that the motor will hardly be costing anything to get cleaned up. Good news for sure on the motor!
Screech
beer budget white trash
primarily just see friends selling to friends really.
thanks for the info on it. I would put it in a box in a dark corner next to some other parts I only use for shows and meets lol
Beat92240
New Member
Got the extra winter valve cover all powdered up yesterday. As I said I let my buddy do it whatever color he wanted to. He had just got this stuff in and wanted to see how close it was to his engine bay paint so he could do some of his parts. Turned out real good though on here too, and matched his stuff pretty good too.
And heres his bay that we were trying to match...just for a peak of what hes got going for him. Matches a lot better in daylight, this was taken on a pretty cloudy day...
And heres his bay that we were trying to match...just for a peak of what hes got going for him. Matches a lot better in daylight, this was taken on a pretty cloudy day...
Death-the-Kid
anta honma ni shinude
LS1 or LS2?!?!?! either way i'm like ***FAP FAP FAP***Got the extra winter valve cover all powdered up yesterday. As I said I let my buddy do it whatever color he wanted to. He had just got this stuff in and wanted to see how close it was to his engine bay paint so he could do some of his parts. Turned out real good though on here too, and matched his stuff pretty good too.
And heres his bay that we were trying to match...just for a peak of what hes got going for him. Matches a lot better in daylight, this was taken on a pretty cloudy day...