Best Motor for Forced Induction
- Thread starter Still Prodigy
- Start date
Death-the-Kid
anta honma ni shinude
at least that is a credible response. but i have a stock 2nd honda so this one gets all the fun parts
besides i like having a true 1.8 liter what are you plans for your gsr after the loooongg stock period?Royal_DA
Royal
HAHA i know right!
My favorite thread lol+1 for Prozon too ;D Prozon Score= 2 Death-the-kid= 0
If that is the case for your car. Which is clearly not. Like Prozon said why hasn't anyone else done this? Why doesn't everyone do this? :hitlol:
Death-the-Kid
anta honma ni shinude
HAHA i know right!
+1 for Prozon too ;D Prozon Score= 2 Death-the-kid= 0
If that is the case for your car. Which is clearly not. Like Prozon said why has anyone else done this? Why doesn't everyone do this? :hitlol:
you missed a quote
are you an idiot? there are plenty of people/members doing this... did you not see the guy in the beginning of the thread i quoted for you showing a 170whp just by tuning and throwing a gsr head onto a stock b20 bottom end? you can't even read a dyno graph and you think you know anything about engines? a good portion of your high hp n/a b-series builds are lsvtec and b20vtecs...do you live under a rock? you even failed at using an online dictionary :lol: Like i said.... before call a tuning shop and stop playing NFS underground if you do not believe me. it's a simple feat for most normal people to pick up a phone and press several buttons. In fact why don't you call evans tuning? here is his website contact data
also if you could read instead of fingerpopping your butthole at the idea of vtec, then you woud've seen where we already discussed that it's worth it if you already have a b18b because it's cheaper and more cost effective to simply convert that engine with today's technology than to buy a full on used swap from somewhere else. it's not worth it if you already have a b-series vtec engine. your mother should've used a coat hanger when you were conceived. at least prozon had some form of coherent thought processing behind his arguments although very dogmatic. you are just clinically stupid
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scallawag
New Member
at least that is a credible response. but i have a stock 2nd honda so this one gets all the fun parts
the long stock period will end once the current engine blows... I got the car as a 125k mi 1 owner with service records and whatnot. honestly its a 9/10, and thats only because of the mileage.
but hopefully a K20 with a 6 spd... :twisted:
or I'd like to do a reliable turbo build (LOL) and keep it looking like a stock GSR.
Hopefully I'll get it to like 220k before it needs a rebuild, but thats well down the road. cwutididthar?
Death-the-Kid
anta honma ni shinude
did you do a compression and leakdown test on the engine. that will tell you far more about the condition than the miles... it sounds like you have big plans going in different directions. come up with a set of goals before you do any mods to your car so you don't waste your money... keep in mind ls, lsvtec, vtec all have about the same level of maximum reliability on a daily driven streetbuild. which is realistically around 300whp with a nice tune.
a k20 swap is going to cost you 6-8K if you have to pay somebody to do it for you.... i would honestly go with a k24. cheaper and more tq. people are still making crazy power with them as well.
if you're going turbo what is your power goal? a reliable turbo setup has more to do with the planning and the tuning than the money spent. remember that
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Death-the-Kid
anta honma ni shinude
well then scrap the k20 swap and just turbo your current car 250whp turbo gsr with maintenance and a good tune and you shouldn't have any issues. just do a compression and leak down test. frankly a k20swap can do that all motor but it's not worth 7-10K in parts and labor and install for 250whp when you could realistically do that for a fraction of the cost with your current setup and more tq
TheMyth
Member
Here is my stock JDM itr engine. Just the usual bolt ons - intake/header/exhaust, but I did have 310 cc injectors tuned on S300. And this is 190 whp with no internal changes.
The 186 whp was when I changed the head over to a gsr head(still used the itr cams) to raise compression. I gained more throughout the rpm range but lost on the very topend due to flow characteristics. And same bolt on but 370cc injectors due to the 310's where at 85-92% duty cycle. And stopped vtec engagement where you see it. It was very weird that it kept making power in low rpms the way it was..
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Death-the-Kid
anta honma ni shinude
you proved my point. a stock unmolested integra type r picked up 25-30whp with what you did. it's amazing what a tune and the right combination of parts can do.. . i don't know why they were surprised that i was making 180whp with a built head. but yes the power you made throughout the powerband is more important than the 4 peak whp that you lost. that's why i opted for a gsr head over lets say a b16. that and b16 cams suck. i'm running 440cc RC injectors on my setup. pretty sure with a compression bump i can hit 200whp all motor no problem. i'm still under 10:1 compression with this b18b bottom end, even with the compression bump of the GSR head.Here is my stock JDM itr engine. Just the usual bolt ons - intake/header/exhaust, but I did have 310 cc injectors tuned on S300. And this is 190 whp with no internal changes.
The 186 whp was when I changed the head over to a gsr head(still used the itr cams) to raise compression. I gained more throughout the rpm range but lost on the very topend due to flow characteristics. And same bolt on but 370cc injectors due to the 310's where at 85-92% duty cycle. And stopped vtec engagement where you see it. It was very weird that it kept making power in low rpms the way it was..
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