Beat92240
New Member
Bring it on....my leg is ready for some testicle free humping.
Kileys K20z3 DC D.D.
- Thread starter Beat92240
- Start date
DB8215
New Member
LOL thats rather disturbing
Beat92240
New Member
WIRING!!!
I just decided to dedicate a section of this thread to whats needing to be done with the wiring. My goal is to update this post through the build so anyone looking at doing this swap can refer to this one post for every bit of the wiring that needs to be altered:
The Oil Pressure Sensor plugs are different between the motors. Requiring you to either A: do an aftermarket gauge if you plan on doing a built motor...probably recommended. Or B: I'm doing nothing special with mine, so I'm good with the normal high/low oil pressure sensor. Therefore I plan on just switching my plug out from the K20z3 harness onto the K20a2 harness so my factory K20z3 pressure sensor will work with my K20a2 harness.
K20a2 Harness Oil Pressure Sensor Connector:
K20z3 Harness Oil Pressure Sensor Connector:
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is also different between motors. This is no doubt due to the difference in Vehicle Speed Sensors as a whole. The K20a2 uses a standard mechanically driven VSS unit that rides on a speed gear that is installed on the differential. The K20z3 uses a magnetic VSS sensor that doesn't actually make physical contact with the gearset to tell speed. Again I plan on simply swapping over the harness connectors to make it work:
K20a2 VSS Connector:
K20z3 VSS Connector. Note the extra slot on the bottom right of the connector:
K20z3 Transmission Sensor/Plug Locations:
K20a2 Throttle Body Sensor/Plug Locations:
K20z3 Cam Position Sensor, Top Dead Center Sensor, and Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Locations:
K20z3 Coil Pack and Injector Locations:
K20z3 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch, VTEC Solenoid Valve, and Oil Pressure Sensor Locations:
K20z3 VTEC Oil Control Valve and Crank Sensor Locations:
K20z3 Knock Sensor Location (I dont have one yet, but it goes here). NOTE:We will need to use a K20a2 Knock Sensor for our swap.:
After taking the short cut and just talking to Jeff at Evan's tuning who has tuned many of my cars in the past and will be tuning this one as well, he said that the only sensors we will be eliminating as far as Kpro is concerned is the Secondary O2 sensor, Purge Solenoid, and EVAP sensor. Remember this is if you are using KPro. If you are using a type R ecu or some other with an immobilizer bypass deletion of these sensors may throw codes.
Intake Air Temperature Sensor will be mounted in whatever intake you decide to go with so it is not in any of my pictures. Be sure to remember to keep its harness around though. Just because its not pictured doesn't mean you can eliminate it.
I just decided to dedicate a section of this thread to whats needing to be done with the wiring. My goal is to update this post through the build so anyone looking at doing this swap can refer to this one post for every bit of the wiring that needs to be altered:
The Oil Pressure Sensor plugs are different between the motors. Requiring you to either A: do an aftermarket gauge if you plan on doing a built motor...probably recommended. Or B: I'm doing nothing special with mine, so I'm good with the normal high/low oil pressure sensor. Therefore I plan on just switching my plug out from the K20z3 harness onto the K20a2 harness so my factory K20z3 pressure sensor will work with my K20a2 harness.
K20a2 Harness Oil Pressure Sensor Connector:
K20z3 Harness Oil Pressure Sensor Connector:
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is also different between motors. This is no doubt due to the difference in Vehicle Speed Sensors as a whole. The K20a2 uses a standard mechanically driven VSS unit that rides on a speed gear that is installed on the differential. The K20z3 uses a magnetic VSS sensor that doesn't actually make physical contact with the gearset to tell speed. Again I plan on simply swapping over the harness connectors to make it work:
K20a2 VSS Connector:
K20z3 VSS Connector. Note the extra slot on the bottom right of the connector:
K20z3 Transmission Sensor/Plug Locations:
K20a2 Throttle Body Sensor/Plug Locations:
K20z3 Cam Position Sensor, Top Dead Center Sensor, and Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Locations:
K20z3 Coil Pack and Injector Locations:
K20z3 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch, VTEC Solenoid Valve, and Oil Pressure Sensor Locations:
K20z3 VTEC Oil Control Valve and Crank Sensor Locations:
K20z3 Knock Sensor Location (I dont have one yet, but it goes here). NOTE:We will need to use a K20a2 Knock Sensor for our swap.:
After taking the short cut and just talking to Jeff at Evan's tuning who has tuned many of my cars in the past and will be tuning this one as well, he said that the only sensors we will be eliminating as far as Kpro is concerned is the Secondary O2 sensor, Purge Solenoid, and EVAP sensor. Remember this is if you are using KPro. If you are using a type R ecu or some other with an immobilizer bypass deletion of these sensors may throw codes.
Intake Air Temperature Sensor will be mounted in whatever intake you decide to go with so it is not in any of my pictures. Be sure to remember to keep its harness around though. Just because its not pictured doesn't mean you can eliminate it.
Last edited:
Beat92240
New Member
I also pieced together a home made Idle Air Assist bypass today. Some of the major companies out there sell these for 20 to 30 bucks, but I've included pieces needed to bypass it for less than $2.
This bypass is REQUIRED if running some aftermarket injectors. The factory K series injectors have two O rings around the tip of the injector to allow this to work correctly. If your aftermarket injectors do not have two O rings on the injector nozzel side you must do this or your car will run not so nice.
This part from the factory allows for a quicker warm up when the car is sitting at idle. When the engine coolant temp is below 147 degrees, the valve is open. This allows additional air to come from the intake manifold directly into each injector port. This in turn artificially leans out your fuel mixture allowing the motor to heat up to operating temperature quicker.
Whats needed:
3/8th's vac nipple
24 mil socket/wrench
3/8ths NPT plug (from plumbing section at Lowes/Home Depot/etc)
I found it easier (since I'm not using it) to just give the sensor to little love taps with a hammer since I don't have a 24mm box end wrench handy. I then was able to easily slide a 24mm deep well socket over the remains of the sensor and easily unscrew it out of the manifold. Add some teflon tape to the threads of your NPT plug from you plumbing store, especially recommended if youre doing boost, and screw that bad boy in.
Next throw your 3/8ths vac nipple from advance/autozone/where ever on the center port of the RBC manifold and throw a zip tie on it. No need for a hose clamp here. You can use one if you want but I've had plenty of boosted cars and zip ties do the job just fine and look a little cleaner in this location to me.
Throw a little paint over the plug and enjoy!
This bypass is REQUIRED if running some aftermarket injectors. The factory K series injectors have two O rings around the tip of the injector to allow this to work correctly. If your aftermarket injectors do not have two O rings on the injector nozzel side you must do this or your car will run not so nice.
This part from the factory allows for a quicker warm up when the car is sitting at idle. When the engine coolant temp is below 147 degrees, the valve is open. This allows additional air to come from the intake manifold directly into each injector port. This in turn artificially leans out your fuel mixture allowing the motor to heat up to operating temperature quicker.
Whats needed:
3/8th's vac nipple
24 mil socket/wrench
3/8ths NPT plug (from plumbing section at Lowes/Home Depot/etc)
I found it easier (since I'm not using it) to just give the sensor to little love taps with a hammer since I don't have a 24mm box end wrench handy. I then was able to easily slide a 24mm deep well socket over the remains of the sensor and easily unscrew it out of the manifold. Add some teflon tape to the threads of your NPT plug from you plumbing store, especially recommended if youre doing boost, and screw that bad boy in.
Next throw your 3/8ths vac nipple from advance/autozone/where ever on the center port of the RBC manifold and throw a zip tie on it. No need for a hose clamp here. You can use one if you want but I've had plenty of boosted cars and zip ties do the job just fine and look a little cleaner in this location to me.
Throw a little paint over the plug and enjoy!
tbrazzy-s3
New Member
Nice swap. I picked up a k20z3 with an oil leak for 75 dollars a few years ago and I've never got around to rebuilding the thing. Best of luck with the swap.
Beat92240
New Member
Damn still have that thing man?!? Even more of a steal than I got!
tbrazzy-s3
New Member
Yes, I still have it. It's just laying in my garage heh. I need to get to work on it! I could at least flip it for a profit.
Beat92240
New Member
You'll never meet me, so you can pretend. I'll just try to keep my man hands and penis out of the pictures I post on here.
Beat92240
New Member
You stalking me? Comments like that make me think ur outside my house with a pair of binoculars...not that I have an issue with that..
Death-the-Kid
anta honma ni shinude
omgzzz i'm in <3
Beat92240
New Member
Mini update here...almost more of a product review instead. Got in my OBX throttle body spacer and got it all installed.
Reasonings why I went with this one? Its the cheapest AND it comes with both gaskets needed. No other adapter that I found came with the gaskets for the price range.
This is needed to adapt the cable driven K20a2/z1/type r throttle bodies onto the RBC manifold. Make sure you go with the right one. Different manifold/throttle body combinations require different adapters, so make sure you take your time and get the right one.
PROs:
Price
comes with needed gaskets
2 extra 1/8th inch NPT vac ports right on the front of it
claims to add horsepower with its Vortex effect
overall looks pretty good.
Good throttle body alignment
CONs
one of the bolts had a sign of rust on it right out of the package. I was switching these bolts to stainless hardware anyways.
No directions
Bolt holes weren't threaded for the throttle body. Which is why the no directions thing mattered.
Thing came well packaged and in a timely manner off of ebay of course. I cracket it open and something just wasn't making sense just looking at the piece. There were no threads for the bolts that hold the throttle body to the adapter. I thought something had to be wrong so I did a little research and found that this actually seems pretty common with these. I'm not sure why, but the OBX adapters have said to have come with no threads in them before. No biggy. I figured I could break out the ol' tap and die set to save myself 20-40 bucks.
You have to tap out the holes circled in red. 8mm x 1.25 is the tap needed. This is the thread that the bolts supplied are as well, so you can use them if you tap it out with this size.
Other than that it was pretty flawless and straight forward. Couldn't really ask for much more from a 60 dollar part. As you can see the throttle body alignment was dead on and it will most certainly get the job done. I won't be using the 1/8th inch NPT fittings since I'll be running NA, but thoughtful OBX included two nice plugs for the holes.
Reasonings why I went with this one? Its the cheapest AND it comes with both gaskets needed. No other adapter that I found came with the gaskets for the price range.
This is needed to adapt the cable driven K20a2/z1/type r throttle bodies onto the RBC manifold. Make sure you go with the right one. Different manifold/throttle body combinations require different adapters, so make sure you take your time and get the right one.
PROs:
Price
comes with needed gaskets
2 extra 1/8th inch NPT vac ports right on the front of it
claims to add horsepower with its Vortex effect
overall looks pretty good.
Good throttle body alignment
CONs
one of the bolts had a sign of rust on it right out of the package. I was switching these bolts to stainless hardware anyways.
No directions
Bolt holes weren't threaded for the throttle body. Which is why the no directions thing mattered.
Thing came well packaged and in a timely manner off of ebay of course. I cracket it open and something just wasn't making sense just looking at the piece. There were no threads for the bolts that hold the throttle body to the adapter. I thought something had to be wrong so I did a little research and found that this actually seems pretty common with these. I'm not sure why, but the OBX adapters have said to have come with no threads in them before. No biggy. I figured I could break out the ol' tap and die set to save myself 20-40 bucks.
You have to tap out the holes circled in red. 8mm x 1.25 is the tap needed. This is the thread that the bolts supplied are as well, so you can use them if you tap it out with this size.
Other than that it was pretty flawless and straight forward. Couldn't really ask for much more from a 60 dollar part. As you can see the throttle body alignment was dead on and it will most certainly get the job done. I won't be using the 1/8th inch NPT fittings since I'll be running NA, but thoughtful OBX included two nice plugs for the holes.
