For the Auto guys, supercharged b20 on MP7A JDM automatic tranny

[klutchDb7]

Gotcha. I need some way to make it shift faster, under full acceleration, the thing will just sit at redline and not shift till I lift off the throttle, or take a reaaaalllyyyy long time to swap gears

 

[Spawne32]

Gotcha. I need some way to make it shift faster, under full acceleration, the thing will just sit at redline and not shift till I lift off the throttle, or take a reaaaalllyyyy long time to swap gears

Running an OEM fluid? You can try a thicker viscoity fluid like redline D4 and it might help correct that, but thats likely a symptom of a beat trans. You can try driving it in D3 more as the line pressure is actually higher in D3 for some reason, my car will do that shifting into second and 3rd when in D4 mode because of the reduced pressure.

 

[klutchDb7]

Running an OEM fluid? You can try a thicker viscoity fluid like redline D4 and it might help correct that, but thats likely a symptom of a beat trans. You can try driving it in D3 more as the line pressure is actually higher in D3 for some reason, my car will do that shifting into second and 3rd when in D4 mode because of the reduced pressure.

Yeah, I don't even know if it's ever been changed, I should probably look at that. Trans has 91k miles on it. I do a combination of d4, d3 and d2 depending, daily point a to point b I usually keep it in d4, when I'm being a bit more spirited I'll usually start in d3 and shift to d2 after it gets into second because it drops out of the power band otherwise. It's usually full throttle pulls in d4 shifting to third and fourth it has an issue shifting, I don't usually do flat out in d3. I'll try it out comparing the two and see if I feel a difference

 

[Spawne32]

Yeah, I don't even know if it's ever been changed, I should probably look at that. Trans has 91k miles on it. I do a combination of d4, d3 and d2 depending, daily point a to point b I usually keep it in d4, when I'm being a bit more spirited I'll usually start in d3 and shift to d2 after it gets into second because it drops out of the power band otherwise. It's usually full throttle pulls in d4 shifting to third and fourth it has an issue shifting, I don't usually do flat out in d3. I'll try it out comparing the two and see if I feel a difference

lol wow 91k and its already shitty like that? mine has 200k+ and we boosted it @ 186k. you definitely wanna check that fluid out, its supposed to be changed every 30k or every 3 years. If it comes out black or smells like its rotten, you definitely have bad fluid. If thats the case I would do two fluid changes very close to each other, do your first one, and then change like 3 months later, and then a year.

 

[ALL M0T0R]

Bet those cams be Lopin.

 

[Junior's DA]

Head is finally finished. Ported and polished, 3 angle valve job and backcut valves

Hi Spawne32, nice engine work I need your help. I'm currently looking for a P8R head for my B20B motor (2000 model). As of now, I'm leaving it stock (no turbo or supercharger). I MAY plan to do a supercharger setup next year but I just want to have fun for now with the motor.

What do you recommend for work to be done on the head? Mild to medium port and polish? I'm not upgrading the camshafts. Maybe just the cam gears. I'll need to swap my B20B camshafts (intake side) from my P75 head into my P8R (once I find one) because P75 camshafts have slight higher lift. Now, which Supertech valve springs did you use? I checked their website out and found them but I'm kinda of stuck on which part number it is.

Any other recommendations for the head?

Seems like you know what your doing very well and I would appreciate any help or suggestions that could steer me into a good direction and good outcome for my motor.

Mike

 

[Spawne32]

The options are limitless, as far as headwork goes, I wanted to maintain the oem port shape on the intake side and open the exhaust side up alot, so we did mild clean up work and work in the bowl area around the 33mm valves, and went crazy on the exhaust side.

If your going to stick with stock cam shafts, i wouldnt recommend switching to b20 cam's as they are actually less ideal for superchargers then regular stock b18b cams, and cam gears wouldnt be required. Valve train upgrades wouldnt be required either for stock cams as well but really the best thing I can suggest for getting power out of your supercharger setup is going for custom regrinds profiled for the supercharger setup. Stock cams dont make efficient use of how superchargers create power. Derek over at DDTECH made an awesome profile out of my stock b20 cams and reground them for me and had them polished and coated.

The valvetrain i used in my head is the supertech dual spring valvetrain used in B18B heads. SPRK-TS1015/LS is the part number.

 

[Junior's DA]

The options are limitless, as far as headwork goes, I wanted to maintain the oem port shape on the intake side and open the exhaust side up alot, so we did mild clean up work and work in the bowl area around the 33mm valves, and went crazy on the exhaust side.

If your going to stick with stock cam shafts, i wouldnt recommend switching to b20 cam's as they are actually less ideal for superchargers then regular stock b18b cams, and cam gears wouldnt be required. Valve train upgrades wouldnt be required either for stock cams as well but really the best thing I can suggest for getting power out of your supercharger setup is going for custom regrinds profiled for the supercharger setup. Stock cams dont make efficient use of how superchargers create power. Derek over at DDTECH made an awesome profile out of my stock b20 cams and reground them for me and had them polished and coated.

The valvetrain i used in my head is the supertech dual spring valvetrain used in B18B heads. SPRK-TS1015/LS is the part number.

Thanks for all the information bud As of now, I want to stick to all motor. Going supercharger is just an idea in the air right now lol.

The motor I have right now in my car ('91 Integra 2dr) is a 2000 JDM B20B with a P75 head. I want to scrap the P75 head and replace it with a P8R head (for better air flow) and don't want to go Vtec. From what you mentioned in doing mild to medium port and polish job as you did would be sufficient for an all motor application?

Also, would it be worth getting the Supertech valve springs and titanium retainers? Or just the springs?

 

[Spawne32]

I recommend getting the whole kit, with the retainers and the new valve seats, as the dual springs are much higher tension then OEM springs. As far as an all motor application, your not gonna make any sort of real good power with out some form of cam upgrade and an aggressive head port. The advantage of boost is your forcing air down the motors throat, where as in an all motor application the engine needs to be able to easily breath in air on its on. Aggressive head porting helps more with this. (strictly from a budget stand point, i would do an aggressive head port if i had an extra 1500 bucks to spend but theres no real need for it from a boosted standpoint) One of the biggest keys to making power in an all motor situation, is compression, 12:1 or higher, but if you set up for this, it will rule you out from going boosted later on down the road. Thats why I stopped at 11.5:1 pistons, which an effective compression somewhere around 11:1.

 

[Junior's DA]

I recommend getting the whole kit, with the retainers and the new valve seats, as the dual springs are much higher tension then OEM springs. As far as an all motor application, your not gonna make any sort of real good power with out some form of cam upgrade and an aggressive head port. The advantage of boost is your forcing air down the motors throat, where as in an all motor application the engine needs to be able to easily breath in air on its on. Aggressive head porting helps more with this. (strictly from a budget stand point, i would do an aggressive head port if i had an extra 1500 bucks to spend but theres no real need for it from a boosted standpoint) One of the biggest keys to making power in an all motor situation, is compression, 12:1 or higher, but if you set up for this, it will rule you out from going boosted later on down the road. Thats why I stopped at 11.5:1 pistons, which an effective compression somewhere around 11:1.

The main reason why I'm doing head work is because my valve seals and head gasket need to be changed. Originally, I was just going to clean the head up and not upgrade any of the valvetrain parts. Then I stumbled upon the P8R head info online and decided to go with that head, instead of my current P75, for a bit more air flow for my motor. My mechanic told me not to bother with upgrading the camshafts or cam gears. Maybe a mild port job for both intake and exhaust sides.

I bought the whole ProStreet top end kit for my B20B motor from Cometic. I stumbled upon your build and noticed you upgraded some of the valvetrain. From a budget stand point, if you were in my shoes, what would you do to the P8R head, given the fact that the block is remaining stock (it's the 9.2 or 9.6 CR block).

 

[Junior's DA]

You also mentioned to get the retainers and valve seats as a kit correct? Is this the part# for that kit: RET-TS66/T1+SEAT-TS/LS-IN+SEAT-TS/LS-EX?
Also, about the OEM springs, I should leave them as they right?

 

[Junior's DA]

** Sry, I don't mean to thread jack. Spawne32, if you want, PM me.

 

[Ominous G2]

Junior I have a P8R head I'm willing to sell, has supertech dual springs, retainers, and valves with extended studs on the intake side from King. Polished chambers, ported and polished, all that shit. Can PM me if interested, will most likely save you some time and money. Has never been installed since the work was done and I bought it.

Sorry to jack your thread, love the build.

 

[Junior's DA]

Junior I have a P8R head I'm willing to sell, has supertech dual springs, retainers, and valves with extended studs on the intake side from King. Polished chambers, ported and polished, all that s***. Can PM me if interested, will most likely save you some time and money. Has never been installed since the work was done and I bought it.

Sorry to jack your thread, love the build.

Sweet! I tried sending you a PM but it says that "you've chosen not to receive private messages" LOL ... Send me a PM and I'll reply back to it.

 

[Spawne32]

The main reason why I'm doing head work is because my valve seals and head gasket need to be changed. Originally, I was just going to clean the head up and not upgrade any of the valvetrain parts. Then I stumbled upon the P8R head info online and decided to go with that head, instead of my current P75, for a bit more air flow for my motor. My mechanic told me not to bother with upgrading the camshafts or cam gears. Maybe a mild port job for both intake and exhaust sides.

I bought the whole ProStreet top end kit for my B20B motor from Cometic. I stumbled upon your build and noticed you upgraded some of the valvetrain. From a budget stand point, if you were in my shoes, what would you do to the P8R head, given the fact that the block is remaining stock (it's the 9.2 or 9.6 CR block).

I mean the only real way to make power with an all motor setup is in the head and your compression. If you go mild on both of those, dont expect to break 200hp with it. That's all im saying. Consider your chassis more then anything and weight reduction, i have seen sub 200hp stripped civic hatches run low 12's for no reason other then they weigh nothing.