Deciding on b20 Swap.

92_JDM

New Member
So my motor has been giving me a lot of problems. So i am thinking that i am done with that motor and was planning to do a gsr swap but it cost to much so a friend of mine own a shop advise me if im not going to race just get a b20 because its cheaper and have more torque. So thinking, what do you guys think of a b20 swap in a 1992 integra?
 

OLDSKOOLACURA

New Member
Not sure about into a integra chassis, but my buddy had a b20 ef hatch built and that thing was nasty. All motor.

Depends on what you plan on doing, but IMO you can't really go wrong with a b20

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

klutchDb7

ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
It's just like any other honda engine, it'll last for a while. I like the torque it has compared to the B18's and can definitely be sick when built up.
 


92_JDM

New Member
i see, which b20 is better? because i know there are many kinds of b20s. I had seen a lot of people do the b20b swap. but still looking for opinion.
 

cboe90DA

New Member
92_JDM said:
So my motor has been giving me a lot of problems. So i am thinking that i am done with that motor and was planning to do a gsr swap but it cost to much so a friend of mine own a shop advise me if im not going to race just get a b20 because its cheaper and have more torque. So thinking, what do you guys think of a b20 swap in a 1992 integra?
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if your looking for extream reliability the go with a b18b out of a newer integra 98-2001 with low miles that would be the best way. i found one for 600 bucks with 40k on it and ive had it in three diff da i call it my smog motor lol. i drop it in when i need to smog or when i want reliabilty.

heres b18 specs

B18A1
NON -VTEC
Found in:
1990–1993 Acura Integra USDM "RS/LS/GS" (DA9 Coupe, DB1 Sedan)
Displacement: 1,834 cc (111.9 cu in)
Compression: 9.2:1
Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394")
Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
Redline: 6800 rpm
Rev Limiter: 7200 rpm
Programmed fuel injection
Power: 90-91 Only: 130 bhp (97 kW; 132 PS) @ 6000 rpm & 121 lb·ft (164 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Power: 92-93 Only: 135 bhp (101 kW; 137 PS) @ 6300 rpm & 127 lb·ft (172 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
Transmission: 90-91: A1,S1, cable
Transmission: 92-93: YS1, cable

B18B1
NON-VTEC
Found in:
1994–2001 Acura Integra "RS/LS/GS/SE" (DC4/DB7)
1992–1996 JDM Honda Domani (MA5)
1993–1994 JDM Honda Inta (DB7)
1996–1999 JDM Honda Orthia (EL1)
Displacement: 1,834 cc (111.9 cu in)
Compression: 9.2:1
Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394")
Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
Power: 142 hp (106 kW) @ 5500 rpm & 127 lb·ft (172 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
Redline: 6800 rpm (7200 rpm on JDM Domani)
Rev Limit: 7200 rpm
Transmission: Y80/S80
JDM version is marked B18B on the block without any number.
JDM version has a compression 9.4:1 where the usdm version is 9.2:1.
JDM version has a higher compression ratio which results in higher hp and tq levels than the usdm version.

heres b20 specs

B20B

1996–1998 specs
NON-VTEC
Found in: USDM and JDM Honda CR-V, JDM Orthia, Stepwgn, S-MX
Displacement: 1,973 cc (120.4 cu in)
Power: 126 hp (94 kW) @ 5400 rpm
Torque: 133 lb·ft (180 N·m) @ 4800
Rod length: 137 mm (5.4 in)
Compression: 8.8:1 or 9.2:1
Bore: 84 mm (3.3 in)
Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
Redline: 6300 rpm.

B20B/B20Z

1999 - 2001 specs
NON-VTEC
Found in: USDM CRV as a B20Z, CR-V and Honda Orthia as a B20B
Displacement: 1,973 cc (120.4 cu in)
Power: 147 hp (110 kW) @ 6200 rpm
Torque: 133 lb·ft (180 N·m) @ 4800 rpm
Rod length: 137 mm (5.4 in)
Compression: 9.6:1
Bore: 84 mm (3.3 in)
Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
Redline: 6900 rpm
 

92_JDM

New Member
and what if i was to add vtec? would it be worth it or by adding a vtec it would cause more problems in the future. If i am correct it is like a ls vtec because i heard ls vtec tends to overheat a lot. I could be wrong as well.
 

Ominous G2

┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
If you don't do it right, can definetly cause some problems.

Usually called b20vtec or crvtec
 
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