Engine knock when cold...HELP!

bc_3s5

New Member
Ok, time to start my CI journey...

I'm discovering that DA integra's need a lot of attention (and detailed, at that) especially once they turn high-mileage. However, my latest problem is a little simpler, yet still very nerve-racking.

The car eats up oil, plain and simple. I drive a lot for work so I'm putting mad miles on. Literally have to add a quart every 3-4 days. Have a slight head gasket leak that I have yet to fix, but it smokes a lot on 1st start-up of the day so it's gotta be burning a lot too, right? Or leaking internally?

This has gone on and I've just dealt with paying an extra 5-6 bucks every few days (even though after awhile you're just like "I've already paid what it would probably cost to fix all this, but WHATEVER!" ) However, now I'm noticing the dreaded knock. Killed 2 hondas in my past via rod-knock, so any indication of the sound definitely raises concern when dealing with a current vehicle. Further however, it is only when starting up and cold and it's not too loud yet, just definitely noticable. Also, later on when @ operating temp I can still hear it very slightly butI have to search for it, i.e. sit parked, radio down and play with the revs and listen closely.

So 1st, the oil pressure isn't lubricating properly when cold right?
But 2nd, if it is still slightly present later on, does that mean it's more serious?
3rd, if I have to just suck it up and let someone look at it, what would it cost just to diagnose, much less repair?

Biggest job i've ever done myself was a tranny and clutch. No bottom end work. 1st noticing the knock has prompted me to want to sell the car and get a different 'Teg, but after test driving many, I'm noticing that mine is the fastest one I've driven yet and it's been that way even before my own personal modification of the setup, which I really value also.

Thanks for reading the rant, answers will be greatly appreciated.


Thank You!
 
Last edited:

purp_db7

New Member
Sounds like its time to get a new long block. if it's just a Ls there's no need to tear open the block or anything . Buying a new longblock with less miles will cost a lot less.
 

JobotDestroy

Resident thug
probably the oil pump but i would replace the motor
^^^This. And your oil pump lubes just fine when cold. It's the internals that expand when at operating temperature. The oil just gets a little thinner when warm more or less depending on the viscosity of the oil. Sounds like your in the early stages of a spun bearing. It's only going to get worse. Start looking to either go. The expensive route and have the engine reducing new. (going to want to have the block machined and all internals replaced if you want to do it right) or the cost effective route of getting Anthor engine. The reason your engine feels faster then the others is its actually a symptom of a spun bearing oddly enough. The crank is able to spin more freely due to the nearest bearing letting go.
 


bc_3s5

New Member
All this being said-

What can I expect cost-wise for a new motor swap, or just a bottom end replacement?

And if I decide to continue to sell it, what would be the proper way to explain what's wrong with the car? Don't want to be an asshole and say "oh it's just just got some high miles."
 

94rs-gharp

New Member
explain it as it has a possible spun bearing/its beginning to spin a bearing and but be wary the value will drop to almost zero with a spun bearing...im speaking from experience :( i say start looking in your local yards for a DA long Block (b18A1) and go from there on prices and shop around
 

cboe90DA

New Member
its not uncommon for any motor to knock when u first start it as there is no oil pressure. if it goes away after u start it u should be ok. test ur oil pressure if it has enough oil pressure then ur good.
 


Top