what did you do to your car today?

99TegLs

Senior Member
got my manual cluster and kissed that stupid blinking d4 light goodbye. my 5 speed swap is officially complete
 

GrimLS

New Member
replaced the old rusted nutz on my valve cover and asdded a hose to my valve cover to my intaKE AND ADDED 3 ILLEST STICKERS AND A HELLAFLUSH STICKER ^_^
 

Ganyon

Active Member
Here's how I spent my Saturday. Shitty cell phone pic but you get the point.

Painted the valve cover and did my cam seal.
 

tork_sd89

Baywatch
Here's what I did last night. I still need to mod the D bracket holding the sway bar so I can get the bottom bolts in. It's only held on by the top bolts and the bolts on the LCA's right now. So 4/6 bolts are holding it on. Steering feels more responsive but I didn't wanna push it with 2 bolts missing from the sway bar.




And Friday night I raced for the first time






Ran a best of 10.125 1/8th mile track. I figured out I'm shifting too soon from 1st to 2nd. I was scared of over revving tho. Hopefully next time I hit 9's
 

XjoEnX

Active Member
NemesisCBR said:
Mod the d bracket? I thought a subframe brace was supposed to allow you to just bolt it up.
Click to expand...
I think some subframes are designed to accommodate larger sway bars only, so the smaller factory sway bar brackets won't line up. In his pic, the bottom of his sway bar bracket is no where near the mounting hole of the BWR brace so it can't be secured.

It's looking good tork. What's the plan for the sway bar?
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
Silly me. I didnt even look closely, it was late and i glanced at it. Didnt realize its the stock sway bar and not the itr. Might as well throw that on there too!
 

tork_sd89

Baywatch
XjoEnX said:
I think some subframes are designed to accommodate larger sway bars only, so the smaller factory sway bar brackets won't line up. In his pic, the bottom of his sway bar bracket is no where near the mounting hole of the BWR brace so it can't be secured.

It's looking good tork. What's the plan for the sway bar?
Click to expand...
Yea it's weird. I read up on it and I'm not the only one that had this problem. You can mod the bracket or get energy suspension ones I guess. I may just try to mod the bracket for now and get my larger sway pretty soon. I was looking at the Eibach 25mm but I'm not sure of the whole solid vs hollow thing yet. The ASR 24mm looks nice as well.

http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=8876&idcategory=169

http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2058&idcategory=357
 

pinkley

b@115D33p
Installed my new top hats, dropped the front a quarter inch and took the adjustable sleeves off the back and lowered it a half inch.
 

pinkley

b@115D33p
NemesisCBR said:
back looks lower then the front.. any noticeable ride quality difference with the top hats?
Click to expand...
I actually measured from the ground to the side skirt and its the same front and back. The back tire does look like its tucking more in this pic. I stiffened up the front dampers a click from 3 to 4 and the rear from 2 to 3and with the new top hats I got new bump stops. I cut them down about 3/4". It's a little more smooth up front because the shocks use to top out on hard bumps. It's by no means a smooth ride BUT its better than it was.
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
Nice. My car drives pretty smooth but i want the extended top hats even if just for full performance potential. Helps if i wanna go lower too! When i raised my car a few months ago what was left of one of my cut oe bumpstops was bread crumbs. lol
 

pinkley

b@115D33p
NemesisCBR said:
Nice. My car drives pretty smooth but i want the extended top hats even if just for full performance potential. Helps if i wanna go lower too! When i raised my car a few months ago what was left of one of my cut oe bumpstops was bread crumbs. lol
Click to expand...
The bumpstops I had were the same lol
 
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